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Andymann

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Everything posted by Andymann

  1. Luckily I have access to a lathe and a bunch of willing Apprentices!
  2. The Allen-Key was a bit more tricky as I had to set it up in a four-jaw chuck, but in the end it worked out fine!
  3. I'm a pretty handy mechanic, so I was suitably embarrassed when I ended up with this problem when stripping my bike a few weeks back to get ready for my trip down to Cape Town - especially since I am religious about using copperslip grease in the threads. I wasn't concentrating, and the allen key slipped, cracking the end of the pedal. Of course there was no way then the pedal was going to come loose, so I had to carefully strip both the pedal and crank and put the pedal shaft in the vice, and turn off the crank-arm. What I then noticed, is that the new XT (and XTR pedals i have found), have a hollow bored into the shaft (saving a whopping 4g - I weighed them!), and the old XT pedal shaft I had as a spare, did not. The old XT pedal shaft also has about a mm more "purchase" on the inside of the hex, so the Allen Key will not slip out as easily as it does on the new XT shaft. (I also noticed the shafts are a slightly different colour - the old XT being more silver than the new yellowish hue of the new XT pedal - I suspect maybe a different heat treatment to allow for the hollowed-out shaft). Anyway to cut a long story short, I had to rebuild the new XT pedal with an old shaft and have subsequently made myself a special type of Allen Key - thought I would post the pics thereof, in case it might save some of you a few headaches!
  4. See replies like this is the reason why even if I wanted to import my own frame I won't - here's a local guy bringing in the frames and who carries stock, supporting local importers and local business. That's got to be worth the extra R2k saved by doing it yourself. We had a very similar issue when I worked for Yamaha SA - guys bringing in either Grey or Parallel imports. One just needs to experience first-hand the harm it does to the local dealerships - I'm sure you local CT guys miss Linex Yamaha....
  5. Well said! - We will most likely be buying 2 BSR 29ers later this year. And not because I can't bring a frame in myself (I also do a lot of work in China and Taiwan), but because Colin has got himself a good business, does indeed support the local cycling (and TRI/DU) community ito sponsorships, and he is much easier to chat to if you have an issue than Mr. Lin and Mr. Chang because a call to CT is much cheaper than a call to Taiwan
  6. No Prob - yup - they are probably right - you might have gained a few grams (WOW) going to SORA, but most likely you will notice a way better shift feel. Worst case you won't even know the difference! Would probably have been a good idea to get them to replace the cable while you're at it - if they are going to have to set the RD anyway, worth doing.
  7. I would get a new RD - it's not worth the hassle trying to fix the spring - there are a two, and if one has gone, chances are the other one isn't that well either....also looks like the older 105 RD, so it's probably nearing the end of its life...
  8. I went through the whole process - got to where they said they would send an "activation email" so that my account is valid. Still waiting, two weeks and 3 emails to the help desk later.... doesn't sound like this is worth the 200 points per workout to me....
  9. oh, and make sure whatever make tyres you get, that they match the size of the ones that you are replacing - they should read the numbers 700 x 23C somewhere on the side. What tyres are on the Merida now?
  10. Not sure about those 'flat spots' he mentions hey - unless someone has been climbing on the brakes and skidding, I find that hard to believe - maybe you need to take some pics and lets see what he's on about. You are probably in for about R250 to R350 per tyre though (if you get them locally) - and if you are not going to race, there are very few bad brands out there - Continental, Bontrager, Maxxis, Kenda - all will be good enough for your type of riding. I know there was a special on a while ago at a few of the PTA shops - R299 for Continental - can't really go wrong with that hey.
  11. From the pics and your description, looks like the torsion spring on the RD Hangar mounting shaft has either unclipped, or broken. If it has unclipped, you should be able to get it back, but if its broken, not sure if you can buy the spring separately for Shimano....
  12. Hows this for a left-field spin-off of the whole DG positive - thanks to his test and the resultant publicity, Drug Free Sport SA has upped their testing protocol to such an extent that my nicely planned SURPRISE honeymoon location for my wife and I has been scuppered because they need to know where she will be in case they want to do a test Thanks a lot DG..........
  13. I bet if you rode the Epic on weed, it would feel like you would be taking the rest of your life just to finish
  14. OK my apologies - you can still get the wear parts, just not the bits you need to do the 9-10-11 sp conversion.....
  15. From my good mate who does the servicing of the Bonitas Team bikes - he's also a bit grumpy because apparently the Super Record bits wear out quite quickly....he was told this by the local importers
  16. Ok, final answer to this question - yes you COULD, but now you can't! Seems like the crafty Italians have realised people like us are building hybrid shifters, and have stopped supplying the parts separately....So where you could order just the two gears and the springs before, now you have to order the whole shifting body for about R1000..... Which is a bit bloody worrying when your indent springs wear out - because now you can't even order those....
  17. Damn right - remember from a few years back when we went up to the Water tower we came back down past Marco Polo, and the guys were dishing out free beer!!!
  18. +100000Just make the critera known for each batch - A: 0% - 15% B: 16% - 19% C: etc etc etc.....so that when you do your seeding race, you at least have an idea where you will end.
  19. Exactly. I know of a case where someone in G applied for a re-seeding to the elite ladies, and was told that you had to have an index of at least 20% to be amongst the elite (that elusive list I was talking about!). They then said "Aha, but your seeding is good enough for E". Which begs the question, why was she not in E then from the start, and, if it was an error, why the extra R150? I wonder how much money is made from the re-seeding.....
  20. That makes sense - you need to start in the group you were seeded in originally. No prize money - just give the winner a free entry to next year...
  21. Every year the organisers put on a great show, so this isn't a rant! - I just came up with a few things which I think might be worth looking at - feel free to add, or flame at will! 1. Seeding – this always seems like a bit of a hot potato. I suggest make a list of the 5(?) main seeding cycle races which will be used for the 94.7. Then make the list you use for seeding the groups public. That way, if you do all five seeding races and your average seeding percentage of all 5 is say 25%, you can then match that percentage to the group seeding list and you will quickly see what group you will be starting in. If you only do part of the five seeding races, then you can expect to be dropped down a bunch, or two. That should solve a lot of headaches regarding seeding, and give people a goal to work towards. 2. While on the subject of seeding, perhaps include some MTB races as well as a few Multi-Sport races into the seeding criteria – I know a top-10 ladies Ironman finisher and Elite Tri-athlete who was seeded in H – purely because in preparation for ultra distance events, cycle races are done as a “time in the saddle” issue, and not a fastest finishing time issue – 94.7 excluded of course!!! 3. Most 94.7 competitors I know are super-competitive. Why not offer something for the winner of each batch right down to Batch SS – an acknowledgment on their finisher certificate, or even an exemption from the following year’s entry fee? 4. Maybe a separate batch for Single Speed and MTB’s who want to claim bragging rights as the fastest MTB or SS? 5. With the MTB race now a week earlier, what about a prize for the fastest combined MTB-Road time? There should be more than enough time to add some sort of sticker to the road race pack, to identify you as a combined time rider, or even a link to the entries, where you can select that you will be participating in the combined time competition. Just my thoughts.....I attribute it to 94.7 withdrawal symptoms!
  22. I road with the lady in E, and let me tell you there was no wheel sucking going on there - In fact on the N14 she was right in front driving the bunch. Very strong....
  23. I saw that too - and the one guy looked like he was riding in the 60-69 age group! Respect! Sorry I couldn't help the last 2km, I was pretty much spent! I think we lost the time on the N14 - the bunch just didn't want to get going......
  24. Thanks! Missed my goal of a sub 2:40 by 30-odd seconds, but I reckon with the wind it was one of those things! Were you on the blue Trek?
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