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SRAM is even easier ... unbolt brake levers from bars, swap around and bolt back on .... easy peasy
I'm not a huge SRAM fan, but I must admit, that is good design and clever thinking to make the brake levers "swappable". Hopefully Shimano learn from that for the future.
I fitted Shimano 1x12 about 2 weeks ago, works like a charm. The shifting is "perfect" and the gear spacing is much better than on my 1x11 before this.
By shopping around I spend R8.5k (XTR Cassette & Chain, XT Derailleur & Shifter, DT Swiss Microspline freebody).
If you just buy new without shopping around this can cost you up to R14k. So compare price and dont be scared to go for used if its still in good condition.
With you R10k budget you can make it work for sure.
Swopping the Shimano hoses on my commuter was super easy ....
Unscrewed both sides ... "un plug" both pipes, swop about, push into the lever unit .... tighten the screws. That was it !!!
I did check the bleeding, but it was perfect.
The pipe routing is the biggest constraint ... on som bikes. The internally routed would come out of the down tube on the left, loop around to the right side lever .... the cable really doubles up if you want to attach it to the left lever. Doing a proper job would require a re-routing, so the cable exits the frame on the right .... IF the holes in the frame allows this ....
That is exactly what I did on my bike, swapped around and rerouted everything the way I like it.
Sure it is a bit of effort but definitely not the end of the world and only needs to be done once unless you are female and you change your mind every other day ... 
(Only joking girls, please don't attack).
Brake cables hoses on my frame is still externally routed so not a big deal at all to customize. Don't even need to cut cable ties since I got some of those nice C-clamp jobbies.
Beach weather
20201127_092039-1-1.jpg
I'm so jealous of you guys in the cape, you have absolutely beautiful places to ride, such a pity the criminals try their best to ruin it.
Don't take those views for granted, stunning !
The context is standards in a bike industry.
If all motorcycle manufacturers around the world could agree where clutch and brake levers go then surely all bicycle manufacturers and assemblers can just all align in one way or the other. This is not like all the other issues mentioned where advances in tech have lead to new variables- this is just not getting their ducks in a row. All bikes parked in a bike shop should have the same control set up to start. You don't walk into a car dealership and have to ask if the accelerator is on the left or the right, or find that out in the first drive do you?
From there you can personalize away, esp if you are a lefty. I have a friend running a left thumb brake on his R1 in the American superbike series, works for him, other guys have tried and found it a waste of time. each to their own to personalize, but it should have a standard to start...
The car industry also dont have it sorted by a long shot, lights (indicator lever) a simple example.
It is unrealistic to expect all manufactures to abide by the same rules, aint going to happen. We simply need to adapt & accept and change to what you want if possible.
I have no problem with right - rear brake, rear gears also right so for me it make sense everything rear is on the right ... 
If its such a big bother, change it, although not bought like that it is not rocket science to swap the hoses or get someone to do it for you.
Personal preference, do what ever the hell works best for you.
2
Anyone know where I can get the latest "fixed" Milkit Booster (Head + Bottle) in SA?
https://fitsportslab.co.za/ is the agents but they only have the valves & sealant kit and also cant tell me when they will get the booster & bottle.
Why are there 4 qr skewers?
I get ad no longer available, but I did find a santa cruz blur for free...
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/192949275835783/?ref=category_feed&referral_code=undefined
(I've never been on fb before, this place is weird)
Agree, FB, not a fan at all !
Wow, that is crazy with some crazy skill ! I did not even dream that that is possible.
Thank you. Just needed to know that 126 has enough links before chopping it to spec for the Shimano drivetrain.
No problem. If anyone else are interested just let me know. For my bike, the calculation worked out exactly the same amount of links (120) as the practical method.
I never really thought of this before but how would you calculate the amount of links you need for a dual suspension bike.
My setup is 30t front with 11-51 rear.
I assume buying a 126 link chain should be more than enough to chop down to size. I remember something about 118 only supporting up to 32t but I'm not sure if that keeps chain growth in mind.
There are 2 different formulas, a easy one and a more advanced one. I got it set up in a spreadsheet a few days ago. If you give me your chain stay length I can do the calc for you. You can also do the practical method as explained by the Parktool dude and compare the two results.
Or I can send you the spreadsheet and you can do it yourself, just PM me your email.
Edit: Yes 126 will be more than enough.
Good point.
I'm 6'2(1.88m everywhere outside the USA) and I ride a Large Giant Anthem. I feel very comfortable on it.
XL might actually pull you too far forward due to the longer top tube, seeing as you actually want a more upright posture, the Large might be a better choice.
Whatever you decide on, take it for a proper lap around the block before letting go of the money.
I'm also on the tall side at 1.87m (I only use the @#$%@#& unit system with a gun to my head).
Large Rocky Mountain work perfectly for me.
That is the silver tube spacer to seat against the inner ring of the inner bearing, and yes it will bond and not work without it and hence absolutely required.
This is not the same issue though. According to the DT Swiss experts, the Micro Spline freehub will have interference on its outside flange with some (newer I presume) 350 straight pull (142x12) DT hubs and "bond" to it when tightened, nothing to do with any spacers.
The fix is to machine the flange in question down by 1mm, voiding the warranty though. DT also apparently offer a replacement scheme (to J-Bend hubs) to assist with this issue, luckily I didn't need any of these options.
Well .... at least it got some nice Conti tires on
Just a FYI to anyone considering upgrading to micro spline (12 speed) on a DT 350 straight pull hub, 142x12.
Although clearly stated by DT (confirmed by Marc in this thread) that the DT Swiss Micro Spline freehub is not compatible with this hub, I did have success with it without any modifications.
By no means am I saying the are talking nonsense, merely that it did actually work for me. I will give the exact details of mine so that you can make the call if it might work for you also or not:
1.) Bike: 2013 Rocky Mountain Element 970 RSL
2.) Rear Wheel: DT Swiss X 1.6 Straight Pull, 54T Star Ratchet, Micro spline Freehub, 12 x 142mm Axle. As far as I know this hub is the same as a DT Swiss 350.
3.) Freehub: DT Swiss Micro Spline (as far as I can tell, a 2nd generation)
4.) Cassette: Shimano XTR 10-51 12 speed
Maybe the fact that it is an older (2013) hub counted in my favor, a newer or different year model might not be so lucky and a freehub modification or hub replacement will be required.
Hope this help someone.
Wow, the site looks quite professional, someone is going to get caught by this ...
Bikes on a freight logistics site though, very suspicious.
Although im not suggesting you open it if you arent comfortable doing so....In the case of shimano it wouldn't be the first time upgrades were hidden from plain sight with just a facia piece or cover plate. They have done do in the past on shifters.
It should work though. The differences in pull ratios between 11 and 12 must be minuscule....id just set the low en screw so it stops it at the 11th click so the shifter can't go to 12. See if that works. Works a charm when setting up 10 speed Saint stuff to 7 speed.
Since its brand new and I want to use it on my 12sp upgrade, I'm not going to open it now, was just wondering since I suspect there is an good possibility that if opened the internals are going to look very much the same as the XTR.
I was just hoping someone else already did this. When its used and/or broken one day, I will certainly investigate.
Call me a Luddite, but the one thing on my second hand road bike that I have never had to work on in about 9 years are my brakes. I turn the screw thing on the cable tighter about once a year and I may need new rubber pads sometime. That's it for a weekend warrior that rides the normal races around Jo'burg.
Now guess what part on my two MTB's has caused me the most headaches and frustration . It took three bike shops six tries to sort out a small leak on a cable that I eventually noticed.
The owner or mechanic brings the bike out with a satisfied grin. Pulls the lever ,"There you go ,all well. Thank you ,bye bye . And forty minutes into the ride ,no brakes.
Oil on the rotors oil, on the discs.......
And like a seasoned fridge mechanic, "Just keep an eye on it , it should be all right ."
Racing snakes and wannabees and okes who like new tech , go for it . Me, I'll stick with rim brakes.
You must be seriously unlucky. I'm using disc brakes on MTB for many years without a single issue. Only thing is to replace pads, and that also last a decent time.
2
Sure it will never be as accurate as a dedicated GPS unit, but for a lot of people it would be accurate enough and a very viable alternative.
I normally use my Polar V650 for GPS, but it is good to know a phone can be used as an option. That being said, I would rather use Polar Beat to record than Strava. Data get uploaded to Strava anyway after the fact.
My brieke while touring in them Alps. Moertoe.
And I do not live in the foothills of the Alps.
Nor do I train in the wet or sleet as often as my northern hemisphere friends.
I think you need some disc brakes .
2
Dear Bike Industry
in The Bike Room
Posted · Edited by Theog
I will give that one to the d*** Americans, 1/2" pitch on a bike chain should remain. If that change, the entire drivetrain change, all the gears, front & back and the derailleur wheels. Shifters at least could stay the same.
The number of teeth that can be fitted on a cog (hence cassette layout/gaps) and the strength of the chain will need to be carefully considered if such a change is made.
Edit: That fancy chain will be heavy as hell and shifting up and down a cassette will be challenging to say the least.