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41 minutes ago, BaGearA said:That's because its a Trek bearing made by Enduro
Its doesn't appear on any other frame that I'm aware of other than Treks , you are right you can find them cheap but then its the 7m one not the double row 11 or 12mm one
I dont buy that they are made for TREK - If that be the case you would only be able to get them from a TREK store - You can get them through any bike shop that stocks Enduro bearings
47 minutes ago, RobertWhitehead said:Ok, so I have made contact with my connection in Hanoi this morning. Here's the prices I can find on the codes provided, I have multiple options (Unit Prices listed below) so I will list them in descending order:
3801 2 RS
- R 264.88
- R 134.78
- R 124.33
- R 71.34
- R 56.60
- R 50.94
6800 2RS
- Around - R 18.50
17286 2RS MAX
- Price varies between R 70 & R 170
Yes, I know exactly what your next statement is going to be: But the quality is sooooo much better on the more expensive bearing and therefore it justifies the additional cost. I have attached an interesting article and you're welcome to make your own conclusion
https://www.hambini.com/ceramic-bearings-vs-steel-bearings-an-engineering-analysis/
My statement still stands: The high service charge is made up because of % profit added onto the stock items on top of the labor charge, so the lbs buys a bearing from a middleman (not the supplier directly) for lets say the top one: R 151, they then add their mark-up and attribute it to fuel costs and lunch for the driver and and and. So they then charge you R300 and you then ask them to fit it for you. So instead of charging you a reduced rate of lets call it R200 and add a labor charge of R150 they keep the price at R299 each and add a labor charge on top of that.
The way suppliers protect this monopoly and the whole supply chain is to not sell directly to the public.
The other way is to just not bring in the part needed to repair it. So you sit with a R20k trainer which you cannot fix because you don't have access to the part. This is where places like Shein, Temu, AliExpress, Alibaba etc. are opening the market and allowing the consumer access to parts.
You got to be careful with the 3801 2RS bearing dimensions
I found a few suppliers that were much cheaper than 299 - But on closer inspection they were 7.0mm width
The only manufacturer i could find that were 8.0mm were Enduro and i think this is where the MAX wording comes in. I also asked a mate who works at bearing Man to try find them - Also came back and said only place is Enduro bearings.
I didnt read your article, but i also dont buy the whole quality thing - Bearings are desigend for much higher performance than they experience on a MTB suspension enviroment - Even the cheapest bearings will last as long as the most expensive ones - Bearing failure on MTBing is from moisture and dirt which will kill any bearing irrespective of the quality.
1 hour ago, The Ouzo said:and yet somethings are not worth the frustration and its easier to pay the mechanic to sort it out.
Did a sealant topup yesterday. I've been putting it off because my wheel and tyre combo are a PIA. Always one tyre that wont seat.
I thought I was in luck, my neighbour started his compressor up before I started, I asked if I could come and use it and was given the thumbs up.
Rear wheel. 10 minutes start to finish, no issues.
Front wheel, as I let the air out is unseated. I topped up, then decided I was going to try the old tube over the tyre to hold it under pressure trick. Consequently lost half the sealant out the tyre.
Went next door, compressor was not helping, we bumped the compressor up to 10bar, still no luck.
Jumped in the car, headed to the nearest petrol station. Tried a few times, lost more sealant, still not seating.
So I headed home, drained what sealant was left and decided to put everything in the car and take it to the LBS this morning. I'll pay their R200 and let them deal with it.
The strugle is real i tell you - I just did my 26er wheels - Front would just not hold air - removed the tire about 4 times cleaned the rim and the tire bead, rim tape was still fine, pumped it to 4 bar, water and soaped the entire rim and bead, no bubbles, came back 30 min later and its flat - WTF!!
I lost my Sh%t and dunked the pumped wheel in the pool only to find a hole in the sidewall.
Note to self - Next time soap the rim and tire
Male 62
1.85 m
Road - 57
MTB - XL
My view on cost of maintenance for cycling, especially with MTBing and more so MTBing with FS bike - You need to learn some basic service skills - there are lots of resources online like University of U Tjoob and even on some OEM websites. Invest in some time and try them out yourself you will realise it isnt rocket science and will save you 1000's of ronds
So what should you be able to do yourself
Wheels - Fix a puncture; Change a tire; replace rim tape and gorilla snot; do a complete tjoobless conversion; True a bent wheel; Depending on which hubs you have you should be able to to service and replace hub bearings
Brakes - Replace brake shoes; re-cable brakes - A bit more advanced, but brake bleeding is not that hard.
Drive Train - Remove the cranks; remove and reisntall a BB; Measure wear on a chain; be able to break a chain to correct length; replace a chainring; replace a cassette; RD setting and tweaking; replace RD jocky wheels. Re-cable gears.
Suspension - Oil Service -I learnt this online and done it many times - Now i just send it off to RBC and pay them to do it, but i can do it myself if i have the time.
Bearing replacement - This is doable yourself, at most you will save on labor, but you will need to have the bearing puller tools for removal and reinstalling. I made my own from threaded rod and some different size washers, which work great. When i change bearings, i dont skimp i replace them all even the ones that still look okay.
As far as tools go - there are not that many that you would need to add to your toolbox
Bike service stand (this is a must) - Spoke wrench - Allen Key set - Torx set - tire levers - cable cutter - 15mm pedal spanner - Chain whip - chain break tool - chain wear gauge - Cassette tool - BB tool depending on your BB type - Valve core removal tool - shock pump (you should have gotten one with the bike) - big bottle of Stans - some syringes - proper grease, I'm sure some can add to these baisc tools needed
Over the years i've gotten more and more adventureous and made a lot of bearing tools - Park wheel building stand with all the bells and whistles (which i never use) Built my own bike service stand - Air compressor (Makes tire maintenance a pleasure) air gun and digital tire inflators. I even have the L/R thread taps and inserts for crank repairs.
So over time you learn basic service skills and eventually you will be stripping and rebuilding the entire bike saving you lots of money at the LBS
The best part is if something isnt done right you only have to argue with yourself and not some A/hole wannabe bike mechanic
35 minutes ago, ChrisF said:
So once again you will only get the 1.0% if you hand over your soul to them - Another add on to their Scam
1 hour ago, ChrisF said:
^^^ THIS ^^^
Friend paid a big brand shop "to service" the kids bike.
What they actually did:
- new tyres
What I did to that same bike a week later:
- brakes
- repack rear wheel bearings
- BB was broken, replaced it
- repack front bearings
- replaced the grips
- fitted bar ends
What was okay:
- chain and drive train
- pedals
Steering felt smooth, so I did not open it.
Frankly, a new makro kids bike would cost less than a bike shops costs to do all this. Only reason I did it properly is because they were handing the bike down and it was going to be used for years
All my kids bikes were MAKRO specials
Before they even rode them for the first itme i would completely strip them down and rebuild them
They lasted for years.
Its not the quality thats the issue, its the Makro staff assembling them thats the problem - Sportsmans has the same problem, but they have improved over the years
28 minutes ago, RobertWhitehead said:Gents, gents, gents. I own a Trek, slightly older, Superfly (2013) but ok. I am willing to go through the hassle of trying to source some pivot bearings, does anyone have a code close by without having to strip a frame? Let's see what I can find
3801 2 RS - 8 off (21X12X8) - Last paid R 299 each (this was the killer same price overseas)
6800 2RS - 8 off (19X10X5)- Last paid R 80 each
17286 2RS MAX - 4 off - Last paid R 80 each
I also had a Superfly - bearings were fairly cheap to replace - Different story with the Fuels
2 hours ago, RobertWhitehead said:I see this statement a lot. Why does everyone say the dual is so much more than the HT?
The major difference:
Rear shock - R 1 100.00 +/- for service
Pivot bearings - R 40.00 each x 4
I can't think of anything else. Ya, if you go to your lbs then the above will be way more but still, the rear shock won't need a service with every interval and the pivot bearings will only need replacing once they're worn, so I don't see it
Unless you own a TREK Top Fuel - replacing all the suspension bearings will make your eyes water.
I see on their FB page they ran the Sappi Mankele MTB event again - This is great news, hopefully 3 Towers will return
1 hour ago, Nakoota said:In a way we have that, we can go ride Suikerbosrand (the only place my Colnago's visit these days).
Been threatening to do that - But i fear i'll need a triplset first
32 minutes ago, Nakoota said:This is just my personal view but the chorus groupset would be a replacement item for me straight away.
I'd prefer it with the clean record 10 speed groupset you have on the CT1, or I would source an 11 speed Super Record groupset if I wanted neo/retro, wider gear ranges.The wheels to me don't add much either, old zipps < old Campagnolo wheels.
Can't see if that is an original C40 Colnago seatpost but if it isn't, this will impact value too.In the current climate, I think you would have more success selling everything seperately. Colnago fans can get their frames and you will open up your potential market for groupsets and wheels to fans of other brands trying to complete builds.
I'd almost kill for that worldchamps frame but risk suicide by wife with this consideration.
*all just my opinion/preference, others might see it differently.
I hunted high and low for SR 11 speed at the time of the build, could never find one, so i opted for the Chorus deal which is virtually brand new. But i get what you saying.
ZIPP's was the same story - There was no decent Campy wheelset going at the time other than Bora which was another 20K investment had the ZIPP's hanging in the garage, they actully lekka light wheels with Ti spokes, bike rides very naaice with them.
Seat post is original
Would be sacralidge to change over the CT1 Gruppo, as that build is all original from AVH other than the seat post which broke at the seat clamp and i could only find the Ritchie one.
Never the less, if they dont sell i'll sit and hope for the day we get cycle lanes her ein SA - then we can all hangup our MTB & Gravel bikes and ride road again 😁
3 hours ago, Paul Ruinaard said:See my Ad: Its just hanging on the wall so i decided to list it.
That was a schweet deal for someone wanting to add a C40 to their stable
2 hours ago, Nakoota said:As Buff said, value is based on market demand.
I have a C40, full Campag SR 11 speed, original Star Fork and Seatpost etc. to me it is worth no less than R30k (I paid north of R14k just for the frame a few years ago).
If I wanted money quickly, it would go for less, if I was willing to post the add repeatedly and wait for a buyer with my taste in components that wants a C40 with no work to be done, I might get more, in time.
Each seller has to decide what they want, and how quickly they want it.
My experience has been that if I post a Colnago at a reasonably price and wait, the right buyer eventually comes along - even if I have waited for months in some cases.
@madmarc I think you have 2 issues, one is that your frames are 57ctc - if not for this, I probably would have bought 1 or 2 or 3 long agoThe second is that the WC edition is just too high for the local market and I think the build kit you have on the other bikes likely works better with it. At that asking price I wouldn't want to have to change a single component, and the price is still high in this case. It is a collectors bike but 40k is also 40k in a very tough economy with interest rates at a peak.
Constructive input - Thanx
So what woudl you change on the WC from the components on the other bikes ?
1 minute ago, DieselnDust said:I’d lie to understand their model more. I always set their adverts but was sceptical due to the “if it seems to good to be true…”
You mean BikeInn - I ordered lots from them - they legit
1 minute ago, Shebeen said:Why wouldn't they work, no major physics changes for wireless conditions! You might have issues with compatibility with different products if protocols are set for a region.
Was more concerned about if they would geo block firmware updates
3 hours ago, DieselnDust said:Yip and that’s driven by stock management at different distribution centres that service the regions they are allocated. Remember things like a US charger is 110v dc while the Europeans have a different plug to Oceania. Different regions have different radio frequency control acts regulations and laws to kit has to be packaged and managed accordingly. Having a retailer in Oceania selling kit into Africa introduces a whole bunch of issues with AXS kit for example.
for mechanical kit it’s more about stock allocation and managing inventory and warranty. The parent company also has to honour the contracts with its distributors on terms of pricing, inventory holding. It’s not a one size fits all agreement but rather a separate agreement tailored to the market they’re operating in. South Africa will never sell the kind of volume Europe la distributors can so CCS can never attract the same bulk discount at wholesale .
on the warranty side a Hubble may be keen to send a part back to Halfords for warranty but hubbers are 1% of the buying public. The rest want a local distributor to sort out any issues and they want it sorted yesterday.
sorry to say it but Hublands needs are relatively insignificant compared to the overall SA market
Was always my biggest fear with all those Garmins and ASX upgrade kits i brought back - Would they work in Sefrica - But they all did and still do
Been like this for years now - I always buy my stuff online when i travel to Europe and have it delivered to my hotel. On average its been 50% cheaper.
2
40 minutes ago, miniquevdm@gmail.com said:Hi everyone,
I have a Wahoo Kickr Snap 2.0 and am looking to buy an indoor training tyre for my road bike. However, there are so many brands (of course some cheaper than others). Some that I have come across are Tacx, Shwalbe, Continental, Vitorria, Kenda.
Which training tyre/brand would you suggest overall to get the best deal for my money. I would rather pay more and have a longer lasting tyre than a cheap one that fails quicker.
Your guidance is much appreciated
When i had a wheel on trianer i used the TACX blue tyre for 4 years - worked really well and was still in good condition when i sold it with the trainer
20 hours ago, BaGearA said:The tuning for these bikes is where the failure in RSA originates for them.
Standard out of the box the bike is very jerky, I believe it can be tuned out and very finely towards your liking.
but
The tuning capabilities are hidden away , RSA workshops(TREK DOTS and authorized dealers ) have access to basic software and not the factory one.
I had to warranty a motor and the new one came with no details installed. This led to a call with FAZUA where on of the techs logged in with TeamViewer and di the installation, its immense just how many things can be adjusted. ( as in the torque range for every 5w ect ect ect )
But its not within the capability of every workshop and even if someone like myself knows how to do it , FAZUA are very good with keeping a strict eye on who has which software.
They have also parted ways with trek since 2021 I believe.
SO however good the deal is , you will need to hope ebike tech can sort out parts or software for you and I'm 99.999999999% sure they can't
After reading this and some more research on the interwebs - I give this a miss. Def not gonna invest in something where there is no local support or spares for that matter. I did this once on a KS Lev dropper post which has been laying in my cupboard looking for an oil cartridge these last 3 years (I see now that RBC has recently been appointed as the local agent, so hoepfull i can revive it)
Maybe why they have such a massive discount on this model.
16 minutes ago, Ruben Hechter said:I watched a video about it yesterday. They showed that it can be used as a normal Bike with the battery removed. I believe the battery and motor is one unit.(not 100% sure on that)
Bike weights about 18KG with everything on and 15KG without battery/motor unit.
I'm more on about the fact its a pure XC bike and for my type of riding which is bike park trails and long gravel events like Race to the Sun. With 64mm travel in the rear its almost a hardtail with a bit of rear suspension. Current ride is a Top Fuel 9.8 so wondering how different it would feel. I'm thinking its a hard fast ride.
Also - the FAZUA drive train seems very different from the standard e-motors on e-bikes. It looks a lot smaller and proabbly used to keep the weight down. Also reading some of the 1 star reviews on the bike all seem to revolve around the drive system.
Please Please someone convince me NOT to buy this bike !!!
The E-Caliber, is very tempting as a first e-bike at their discounted price.
Wonder how it will ride after riding a Top Fuel for the last 4 or 5 years
Good question - Even scarier is bottled water - literraly millions are sold every year and i bet no one ever checks to see how safe they are.
I mainly use Camelbak bottles - All these bottles handed out as freebies are cheap junk and i turf them with the goodiebag.
Fourways based cycling club
in Technical Q&A
Posted
So i got bored today and dredged up the oldest post on Bikehub oldest date i could find was 23 Feb 2006
Acutally found another from 1970 but says it no longer exists when i open it
Anyone bored enough to find one older ?