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Rudi Pollard

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Posts posted by Rudi Pollard

  1. I've tested multiple options from jbl, volcano, Huawei etc in the R500-R750 range. They lasted less than 10 sessions before I had charging or connection issues. Returned them all and luckily got full refunds. 

    Currently using Adidas ZNE wireless which seems to be holding up a lot better but they are more expensive.

    Hoe sê die ou mense? Goedkoop koop is duur koop...

  2. 42 minutes ago, ianct said:

    In response to a number of people... the power meter was really unusable without smoothing - it would start at around 250W then jump up in 20-30W increments to around 270 or 280, then dive down to around 150/160 over a few seconds, then jump up again. There is no way I was putting out 100+ watts of variance in power over about 5 seconds of seated peddling on a consistent gradient.

    The good news is the 3sec mode improved matters a lot, to the point that it makes sense and is a readable number.

    My guess at what is happening is that the left side only PM reads through the stroke - obviously when pushing down you make power and then through the dead zone and on the upstroke there is  much less power. Then it sends a signal over ANT+ or BT to the head unit but there is a transmission interval between when each packet of data is sent, and then an interval between each loop when the head unit reads the data, and then an interval when the head unit updates the display of the number. If that gets out of sync with the power meter, then it is sometimes displaying the amount from the upstroke, and other times the downstroke, and others the dead point, then that would explain this wild jumping.

    Anyway, 3 sec smoothing sorts most of this out and I'm sure 10 sec will do that even more. Out of interest it's the latest Precision 3 and on latest firmware and calibrated several times.

    Cheers for all the advice and comments.

    You'll be very surprised how difficult it is to hold a consistent number even on a 3sec averaging number. Power numbers fluctuate a lot with very small increases or decreases in the gradient you are riding. It get's easier to hold a number the more used to training with it you get.

    Happy power intervals!!!

  3. The standard immediate power reading fluctuates a lot. As mentioned rather use the 3s ave reading. That should sort you out.

    Lots of technical details which  explains it but because it's a left side only meter the immediate  power reading will fluctuate a lot through your pedal stroke depending if you're pushing down, pulling up, or in the dead zone... 3s average normalises that effect for you.

  4. 19 hours ago, 3bodotbike said:

    Howzit hubbers.

    I want to weigh in on this topic...

    We have developed an on-demand bicycle tracker that communicates with you via WhatsApp. We are in various talks with different strategic partners to offer value adds (insurance, asset recovery, etc). In short, what our product does is alert you when your bicycle moves. You then have to respond to the Whatsapp message if you are aware of the movement or not. If you respond no - the device kicks to on-demand tracking and you can request the location of the bicycle with very accurate coordinates. At present, the device offers 10 days of standby time (ie when your bike is standing at home and not moving) and up to 15 hours of life tracking time.

    We are in the final user testing phase and hope to hit the market before the summer of 2023. Is anyone keen on joining the test pool? Ideally, you would be Stellenbosch based.

     

    I would be interested to test this. 

  5. I'm 186cm with a saddle height of 79,5cm. I bought a Large Trek Top-Fuel frame second hand and I've always been fitted right on the cut line between a Large and X Large on various brands.

    I've had to fit quite a long seatpost and had to make some adjustments with the cockpit but got a good comfy fit on the bike. I think I would have been able to get a similar position on the XL.  

    I think you'll be able to make either work for you is what I am trying to say, but try to get the shop to fit you and advise.

  6. 1 hour ago, droo said:

    With all the bleating about pricing and new standards, there's one thing I'm not understanding.

    If you're looking to spend R 30k on a top tier electronic derailleur, you're probably already riding something that's up to date enough to have a UDH. If you're wanting to put an XX1 AXS RD onto a 10 year old MTB frame you may be approaching the "problem" from the wrong angle - you'll get far better bang for your buck elsewhere on the bike. Suspension, wheels, or a frame with more up-to-date geo will make a far bigger difference than the latest and greatest rear mech, no matter what the salesman at the local bike supermarket will tell you.

    If you want a new drivetrain on your old frame, buy something else. Don't hate on new stuff just cos it won't work for you - let's face it, you were never going to buy it anyway. And the guys who made it know that.

    /rant

    So what I hear you say is just buy a whole new bike already fitted with the new AXS?

  7. Older or new tech Shimano ?

     

    Older units you inject the fluid from the bleed nipple up into the system.

     

    New tech you need the funnel at the top. In a pinch, get a small syringe that can fit into the threaded part on the pod ...

    New one. Basically require that funnel thing for the lever
  8. I need to bleed my Shimano brakes as I replaced the cables today, but I only have a SRAM bleeding kit. Anyone willing to lend me their bleeding kit in Pretoria tomorrow or does anyone know who has stock that I can go and buy it tomorrow morning?

  9. Its a initiative from Cycle Lab and CWC. Not sure how it works yet but they are behind it. I got a message from them and from The Pro Shop for golf.

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