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8 minutes ago, Steady Spin said:11spd worked flawlessly
12spd worked less than flawlessly. (Including a brand new XTR derailleur that grenaded itself)Like I said. Personal experience. No need to elaborate further.
Ahh shimano stuff
I have only ever used SRAM on 11 and 12 speed.
When correctly setup I have not had any issues on either 11 or 12 speed.
20 hours ago, Steady Spin said:I'd personally go for 1x11. Still great range and performs better than most 12spd setups.
(Personal opinion and experience. Put away the torches)
Could you please expand on how you got to that?
I would love to hear why you say or what experience you had that made you decicde this
1 minute ago, Pure Savage said:Used it for our solar set up, was just thinking of getting one without the solar panel for the small flatlet on the property as that geyser just sits on the whole day.
Using it on its own does not really save much unless your "tank/Geyer" is placed in such a way that it cools quickly
I did the excersize where I switched the geyser on at 5am then off at 6am and then on again at 5pm and off at 6pm for 15 days, and monitored the electricty usage,
Can tell you that we did not see much of a "saving" as our one stayed hot during the day
6 minutes ago, TheoG said:Thats 100% correct. Power come from PV and/or Eskom.
Nope the PV does not supply power to the geyser (well not in my case)
The water circulates via teh panels and thus gets heated.
The geyser element ONLY get power from Eskom or not at all
1 hour ago, Pure Savage said:Can one install a geyserwise timer without the pannels etc, Would like to set specific timers etc for the tenant HWC. So that she can turn it on and off and see what temp the water in the geyser is etc.
Geyerwise is excatly that ===> a timer
You tell is when to switch on, based on TEMP in geyer and time of day.
excample ours is set to switch on the geyers at 16:30 if follwing conditions are not met
If temp is not 45 deg then the GW will switch on the element and heat up water to 55deg and switch of.
at 17:30 GW switches off the element until the next morning at 5:30 and then checks temp again and if below 45 it will heat up untill 55.
If the temp is 45 -55 deg the element remains off irrespective of the time of day
The panels will heat the water during the day and some have a pump to move water from "tank" to panels in order to heat up the water. Geyerwise will be doing nothing except stop eskom power from reaching the geyser
Why can he not use the fork he has?
Boostanator will work and it is tapered already?
I think TBMTBC should exclude Meerendal from the membership network
That does not mean people will not be able to ride it, just that Meerendal then has to do their own maintenace and people get to pay the day fee.
For me, it seems Meerendal does not want cyclist there so why should TBMTBC spend engergy there, when they can look at building something simular somewhere else?
1 hour ago, Mokgaga said:take it easy on OP. i suspect he or she is new to mountain biking
50 minutes ago, Hairy said:Hey, the OP came out swinging and missed ........
What Hairy said
OP came out saying plugs are temp measure wich is nonsense
1 minute ago, MTBRIDER1234 said:Out of interest was it at a bikeshop or the rider doing home maintenance?
Just as I know a few s-works riders who have questionable methods of carrying out maintenance on their bikes...
Saw it at Bikeshop, when I was browing around.
1 minute ago, Jewbacca said:Surely you 'tap' out a BB with both tires on the floor?
That way no more force is being pushed through any one part of the frame/bike than is when railing corners or hitting flat edges?
In a stand or on a block of wood? yeah nah
I have also used that method, if the frame has wheel on it already
But once or twice I had a frame without wheels so I put it on the ground/supported
2 minutes ago, MTBRIDER1234 said:Personally I never would and have never seen a BB be hammered out in the stand. I have always put the frame on a block of wood or similar to support it. Definitely would avoid doing that with a carbon bike, but depending on the frame deisgn, some may be fine and some will break... not a chance you want to take
I saw it being done to a Sworks
It was only the frame and seatpost in the stand. Was shocked hence my question here,. But also thought maybe it is ok?
I always did it the way you describe
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What do you think about clamping a carbon bike at the seatpost and then hammering out the BB?
Without any other support onto the frame?
Would it not put lots of stress on the seatpost and maybe cause horizontal cracks in the carbon seat tube?
I have always put the frame on something on the ground and supported it when removing a BB but maybe I have been wasting my time?
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Just now, MTBRIDER1234 said:No, because you make sure the clamp is vertical. May be hard to grasp when I try to explain haha
I get what you are saying
So the bike is front wheel low. But setpost is not in the center of gravity of teh bike so there will still be a bit of force?
If clamp is on the stanchion like in this pic
Does the heavy front not pull down and thus could bend it ?
I thinking if someone is sitting on the it the force is down not at about 90 deg to dropper
3 minutes ago, MTBRIDER1234 said:I have seen it be done and done it for a while. No scratches or damage to any of the droppers. Ever. I guess to each their own but droppers are more likely to get scratched from dirt ingress while riding than being clamped in a clean rubber stand, I guess wrap the dropper in a cloth if you want, but I don't think it is needed.
ok thanks
But a 27kg Ebike hanging on that little stantion
1 minute ago, AkwA said:I have done it a few times, with no issues, but I do have a cloth wrapped around the clamp.
When I can I try to either clamp the collar or the bottom part of the dropper.
Ahh ok
This was without a cloth.
But would you do it with 20kg of battery pulling the front of the bike down?
What are your feelings on clamping a bike on the dropper post stanchion?
From what I have read, it is a NO NO!
I recently had an experience where the shop mech wanted to clamp my bike on the dropper stantion. I told nim "no way"
In my view it does not matter how soft the bike stand clamps are, it could damage the stantion.
It gets better or( worse), my bike is a 27KG Ebike, so all that force is now concentrated on the stanchion/ dropper interface. Surely it is / was going to bend something and cause it to wear out over time?
What do you think?
What do you guys think?
24 minutes ago, TheoG said:I actually did, still prefer Shitmano.
imho the only instance where SCRAM got it better is AXS vs Di2, and I chose Archer D1x Trial because its much cheaper than both the big names and it "shift everything" ....
one thing we do agree on. Archer!
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2 hours ago, TheoG said:OK then.
I'm very happy with my 8-9 year old Shitmano XT's, thank you.
Have you ever tried SRAM?
15 minutes ago, TheoG said:And that is your opinion .... 🙈😁😂
Yes based on many many hours on SRAM and Shimano brakes since 2005 on 5 different bike riding stuff from road to Epic
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Shimano brakes are like light switches, ON or OFF nothing in between
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2 hours ago, Mawbs said:Have to say i purchased a new Merida from them in Jan and got great service from Warren via email which is my preferred method of communication anyway as then you have it in writing.
Had same experience with Warren
New Epic thread deleted by?
in The Bike Room
Posted
Once a document has been leaked on the internet, is it not public ? Spez is being Spez here