GrahamS2

That brings back memories! I got a Mongoose Expert in '83 - loved that bike. Only rebuilt and sold it around '92. Spent many, many hours of my life on that bike. What were those thermoplastic wheels that were around back then? You popped them into the freezer to remove any buckles. Very trick!

A transferring attorney essentially offers the same service - acting as an impartial 3rd party holding funds until the deal is complete. They are not FSB approved, but they do need to have a fidelity fund certificate in order to accept funds as a 3rd party. I think that might be quite relevant to this type of transaction, as it provides security to the buyer that his money won't disappear.

I haven't drilled yet. I need to get a longer cable and housing first. I think there's room to run the cable between the frame and the linkage, otherwise under the BB up the back. I'll look at the options before I drill, because I may just decide to leave it routed like it is - doesn't really bother me too much.

LOL. The taxation laws of 2 countries have absolutely no bearing on each other. What happens if I pay VAT on something that is tax exempt in my own country? Am I still 'not entitled' to claim a tax refund? The issue here is simple misrepresentation by a business. SARS will have a field day.

Here's the pic they sent. I think you're correct, drill mid-way between the 2 lines. I have a packet of rubber grommets I got from an electrical wholesaler - pretty common. I plan to use a small plastic wedge to seat one into the frame, and then some lube to help the cable housing get through http://i57.tinypic.com/9kxvns.jpg

I'm going to make up some clamps to accommodate 3 cables on the down tube, or just cable tie it to one of the existing cables there. Will then run the dropper cable off the side, under the BB, and up into the new hole.

I got an answer from them: "You can drill a hole in the rear of the seat tube to add routing for a stealth dropper. The cable will then run through this hole and underneath your seat tube. Place some masking tape on the rear of the seat tube, next to the HD mount. Make a horizontal line with a pencil on the back of the seat tube in line with the bottom of the HD derailleur mount. Make another horizontal line 10-15 mm below that. Make a vertical line crossing through these, ensuring it is centered on the seat tube. Use 3mm bit to make a pilot hole in the centre of the vertical line. Use an 8mm bit to widen the pilot hole and tilt the drill handle towards the floor to bevel the inside top face and outside lower face, which will make it easier to route your cable through. Deburr the edges with a small file, so the hole does not damage your cable."

The something that changed was your base metabolic rate (pregnancy does this as your body goes into storage mode). So energy in didn't = energy out anymore, and you gained weight. But the rule still applies. Understanding your BMR, and the fact that it changes depending on various factors (pregnancy, muscle mass loss, stress, sickness, etc.) is the key to understanding how many calories you can consume at a given point in order to maintain/lose/gain weight.

Energy in = energy out. If you burn what you consume, you will stay thin. What you consume, and how you burn it, is of little relevance to the laws of science.

There's definitely a "How do you know how much a Specialized costs?" joke in there somewhere...

Please post if you find some info on this. I have the same question as I'd like to route my dropper post cable internally. I'm just petrified of drilling my Pyga.

I also struggled with a pair of X-Kings. Leaked badly when first fitted.

That's true. I know with my own broker they really work on a relationship basis, and most of my claims are handled by just an email from me. But they manage their own risk pool so claims under R250k are at their discretion - same thing with Echelon I'd imagine.

I work in insurance product design, and the alarm bells went off reading the bit about a broker advising their client to essentially be under insured. In the event of a claim there is a very good chance that they will apply averages due to under insurance, and payout will be proportionate to the risks (i.e. 2 bikes = 50% payout). As mentioned above, double check that with your broker and get it in writing.

But imagine how many more scars I'd have if there were discs back then

I'm still quite new to the site. Been riding bikes since I was 2, raced BMX when I was a lightie, and been on mtb for the past 26 years - got my first mtb in '89! First mtb race was on a solid steely with toe clips, at Irene. No front shocks in those days Very cool site and community you've got here.

Playing devils advocate here, but discs with only the weight of an 11 year old on the bike, could result in more 'brake related' wipeouts, in theory. Kids are not that good at modulating brake pressure. I can remember a good few spills on my BMX from grabbing a handful of front brake on gravel....

Used to live in Bedfordview - Tony Impey Cycles always gave excellent service for mechanical stuff. I do most stuff myself, but he's been working on my mtb's for the past 25 years without issue.

Why? Stem length, bar width and offset, and front wheel offset are all factors which will influence the steering action. It all depends how you prefer your bike to respond in corners.

Late reply, but I'm 1.89 and ride an XL with a 90mm stem. Fits me extremely well. I want to try a 70mm stem soon to see if it'll tighten up the turn in a bit. IMO if you're over 1.85 XL is the only way to go on the oneten29

New carbon camber is listed at R136k...

I cross my cables just below the bottle cage. Works well

Cool, you must ride what fits you best in the end My bike is full XT, Hope hubs, Arch EX wheels, FSA headset, Funn stem, raceface bars, and a thompson elite seatpost (a real pavement special of parts!) I've been riding bikes all my life, and mtb since 1989, but this Pyga really is something else. I just need my fitness to catch up to the bike now...

L may be too small for you. I'm 6'3" and the xl fits me like a glove. Used a 90mm stem and 700mm bars. That acid green one on facebook is mine Weight was just under 12.6kg with pedals. You're gonna have an epic build with that kit. But go for the icetec rotors, they really are brilliant. Mine had a solid workout at Giba and I'm thrilled with them.

I have a Trek 2200SL that would make an ideal starter bike for a competitive rider. It is 60/61cm frame size (so pretty big) and is rideable (just hasn't been used in a long time). It's yours if you can collect. I'm based in the Edenvale area.