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North West Chiropractic. Dr Tjaart van der Merwe. If not the best in SA, then certainly one of the best. International athletes regularly consults with him. A very keen cyclist too. https://www.facebook.com/NorthWestChiropractic/
Anyone done the Old Mill Drift route on a MTB? I know it is more known for 4x4, the one that goes close to the Rebellie Game farm?
Was googling it just now. There are some videos on the web, its possible, but a high level of fitness and technical climbing and descending ability will be required.
Visited Suikerbosrand on Saturday.
Started at the Circus so was a good 83km ride.
They dont accept cash at the gate so make sure to take a card if you cycle there.
Hi, can someone please point me in a direction where the "circus" is where one can park? Gates still open at 06h00? Thanks
I know exactly what you are talking about. Always been a slow starter (still am.) In my younger days, when I aspired to finishing 100 km plus road rides and races in less than 3 hours the first 30 to 45 minutes were always hell. Even after a 30 minute warm up.
After reading up on energy production in the human body I developed a theory. In a process called thermoregulation the body tightly regulates its temperature to quite a narrow band (36.5 to 37.5 Celcius). Where it really becomes interesting though is that a lot of the enzymes that controls the metabolic pathways of energy production (glycolytic and oxidative) only kicks into overdrive at the upper end (near 37.5) of that narrow band.
Why are some of us faster starters in endurance events than others? Here is my theory: Perhaps some of us are equipped with bigger better "radiator systems", and it therefore takes longer to raise the core body temperature close to the 37.5 mark? Perhaps some individual's enzyme systems are more adapted to kicking into overdrive at lower core temperatures? Who knows?
The fact of the matter is, for me to perform near my best, I need to be really hot and sweating freely for at least 30 minutes. I always struggle more than the average person to keep up when its cold. What seems to help me a bit, to get a faster start, is to soak in a warm bath for 15 minutes and to eat something about 45 minutes to an hour before the gun. The process of digestion help raise core temperature especially early morning when the core temperature is at a natural low. Anyway that's just my 2 cents.
Biggest notable difference for me with ovals is on steep technical climbing with MTB. Sometimes, in a tight spot, when ones power and or skill runs out one feels that if you could have made one or two more crank revolutions before bailing, you could stay on the bike for the remainder of the technical part. Ovals definitely makes it easier to complete those crucial pedal strokes.
I have question for the august coffee gurus on this thread:
Which single group should I upgrade to from my Jura?
I have been looking for a while, options looks like:
Rancilio Silvia
Leleit Diana
Lelit Mara (price is getting uncomfortable, I still have to get a grinder, too. I am not sure if I need all the dials and valves it has)
Oscar 2 is out of my budget.
or should I look at a 2nd hand 2 group machine? I think that the boiler may take too long to heat up, plus it is inefficient to have a big machine for 4 cups at breakfast.
What grinder to partner it? I dont need a monster, total cups per day for the household is about 8, now that I work from home.
(thanks for all the contributors, thread is always a nice read)
I am quite happy with my Silvia (with PID), Rocky combination. Make around 6 to 8 espressos per day. I think the PID makes a huge difference to the capabilities and user friendliness of the Silvia. If you're regularly gonna make more than 2 milk based coffees at a time I would consider a double boiler. For up to 2 at a time the single boiler of the Silvia is more than adequate.
If you like a fruity espresso then Ethiopian Guji is certainly a good choice. Got some roasted beans from Toro in Potchefstroom yesterday. Certainly one of the most enjoyable espressos of my life! In my opinion its not often that milk will enhance the taste of a good espresso, but with this roast it certainly does. A short cappuccino made with these beans has got very strong hints of blueberry cheesecake. Amazing! Small write-up of Toro in coffee magazine. https://www.coffeemagazine.co.za/blog/1/5901/cafe-focus-toro-coffee
2
I have tasted your coffee
Please could you recommend a scale ?
I have one of these and am not impressed (but also don't want to spend between R2 and R6k)
I ordered one of these before I saw your post. I put it through its paces this weekend. I see what you mean regarding consistency, but for my intended use I find it consistent enough. While weighing grounds for espresso it was consistent about 80% of the time. When it varied it was never more than 0,2 grams up or down. Whether I get 16.8 g or 17.2 g when aiming for 17 g is not bothering me. For the price of the scale that is pretty consistent in my books. I haven't got intentions of entering barista competitions any time soon. I am sure there are better scales available, but at prices from 1K to several K more.
I have tasted your coffee
Please could you recommend a scale ?
I have one of these and am not impressed (but also don't want to spend between R2 and R6k)
What is the problem(s) with this scale?
Rancilio question.
I just can't seem to get a good strong crema from my shots.
- I'm using the Rocky grinder
- Grinder is set to around number 3 or 4 for fine grind
- Beans? Dark roast from Woolies
- Machine is descaled with fresh shower screen and seals
- Double basket used.
What colour should I get from the crema? Darker brown? Mine is more of a straw colour.
I sometimes get a sour draw but since I changed the settings on the grinder it got better.
The flow from the portafilter isn't thick or thin. More of a medium but the viscosity seems a little thin.
It's driving me insane that I can't get a full body cup of coffee from this (what I regard as expensive) machine.
How fresh are those beans? Optimum is between 4 and 14 days. Month old and older beans, don't expect a decent crema.
Good day! Question for all the knowledgeable coffee connosieurs. I am looking at moving up a level from my trusted bialetti. Thinking of an espresso machine in the 10k to 15k price bracket. I already have a Krupps grinder, so it doesn't have to be a bean to cup model. Should have a milk steamer though. Any recommendations, what to look for, what to avoid. Thanks.
Got myself the Silvia with PID, and after a few weeks of trying my Krupps grinder also the Rocky grinder.
Few observations after a steep learning curve. (Remember I was a complete virgin)
The single most difficult aspect to get consistently right is the even distribution of the grounds before tamping. After trying all the methods explained on the www and youtube, I now have a system which works OK, most of the time. I found a little plastic container that fits snugly over the basket. I grind and weigh into this container, put the basket over it, flip it around, quick few shakes to loosen the clumps, few horizontal shakes to level it out, basket into the portafilter handle, and then I distribute it even more evenly with a wooden distributor and palm tamper I made myself on the wooden lathe. I then tamp with the palm tamper which has a collar so that it tamps to the same depth each time. Quick polish with the metal tamp and then I draw the shot.
Questions:
1. Is this worth the money?
2. Does precision screens and baskets make a huge difference? Seeing that they are quite expensive.
Next on the shopping list is a dedicated scale. Kitchen scales are just to variable and inaccurate.
Fully disagree.
You will never be able to get the same or even similar shots out of a full auto as you would from a top of the line manual espresso machine.
It is just not currently possible!
Do you mind to explain a bit more. Thanks.
Sorry if it's a completely dumb question, or if it has been covered on this thread before.
Good day! Question for all the knowledgeable coffee connosieurs. I am looking at moving up a level from my trusted bialetti. Thinking of an espresso machine in the 10k to 15k price bracket. I already have a Krupps grinder, so it doesn't have to be a bean to cup model. Should have a milk steamer though. Any recommendations, what to look for, what to avoid. Thanks.
yes, but on the top side of the blade all goes well, the issue is at the bottom side, where the chain follows the blade back up instead of going backwards towards the rear derailer, that's why I was asking about maybe removing links to ad some tension...
What you described is chain suck. Caused by one of the following: 1 Most common is a worn drive-train. Most of the time chainrings and chain needs replacing. New chain on worn chainring will only make matters worse. 2 Dry chain can cause chain suck. 3 Dirty drivetrain. 4 Damaged tooth or teeth on chainring. Even if its not worn, a bent tooth or a tooth wit a burr can cause chain suck. 5. Riding style; if you like cranking big gears and delay shifting to a smaller chainring to the last moment while still applying maximum torque you are likely to run into chain suck problems. Hope this helps.
As mentioned before, this will be my first CTCT. I would like my wife to track my progress as they would like to wait at the finish line. Are there any apps available to track the ride and progress of the cycle tour?https://glympse.com/get-glympse-app/
I had exactly the same procedure done 2012. First 2 months I did a lot of walking and lying down. No sitting if at all possible. Started cycling again after about 3 months. Made a full recovery. Did a lot of 3 day and one day MTB events and the odd MTB tour without any discomfort. Listen to your doctor and physio.
R1400
Depending on size, I have a pair of 2FO’s for sale. Literally been worn twice, women size 41.5 EU, 8.5 USA 7.5 UK. Reason for selling: in store it seemed to fit good, but at home we soon realized it was to big.
Nothing like blowing some life back into a very old thread hey! 
Our local club are planning a Cycle tour of the area at the end of April 2020. Our itinerary is as follows:
Day 1 Lady Grey to Barkley via Joubert's pass.
Day 2 Barkley up Lundean's nek pass and back.
Day 3 Barkley to Rhodes.
Day 4 Rhodes to Tiffindell via Calisleshoek pass.
Day 5 Rhodes to Tenahead Lodge and back.
My question is, to someone that has been up their fairly recently, what is the general state of the gravel roads in the area? Very rutted and corrugations? Or more on the smooth side? Do I take my light weight, Carbon frame, slightly more uncomfortable Giant XTC hardtail, or my trusted comfortable but heavy Giant Anthem? There is about a 3.5 to 4 kg difference between the two. I am 56 years old, 1.87 m and should be about 89 kg at the time. I am trying to do roughly equal training time on both at the moment. It is not a race, but I have a competitive attitude.
https://www.gauteng.net/attractions/suikerbosrand_nature_reserve/
They used to have 2 or 3 very short MTB loops. (many moons ago) Unfortunatutely SBR went through a period of neglect. Infrastructure and accommodation fell into a state of disrepair. As I understand things have started picking up lately, but I am sure nothing will be left of the trails. The tar route through the reserve is well worth a visit either om road or MTB. Lung busting climbs, great descends, stunning scenery.
Very useful app: https://www.africansnakebiteinstitute.com/app/
[Event] TREK2TEEBUS
in Events
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Any hubbers at Trek2Teebus this weekend?