Jump to content

Roadie_

Members
  • Posts

    72
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Roadie_

  1. 3 hours ago, nick_the_wheelbuilder said:

    A properly-built wheel will never have to be touched or adjusted once delivered to a customer. 
    Pluck each spoke like a guitar string and if they all sound the same, on each side of the wheel, the tensions are even. 
    If the pitch is all over the place, the wheel wasn’t built well. 

    Thanks very much Nick (and others who commented). I'll return the wheel today to give the LBS the opportunity to rectify their mistake. Everyone has a bad day, though unfortunately they have had a few of those with me over the past 6 months or so. If they don't get it right, will look for someone in Northern suburbs of CPT.

    Thanks again. Cheers.

     

  2. 3 minutes ago, Mtree said:

    Had a new wheelset built recently and was told to bring them back after around 100km to make sure the tensions were correct and to retension anything that had worked it's way loose. 

    After 10km it seems a bit excessive, would possibly suggest the tension was too loose to start with? 

    Scraping noise may be tyre/rim contacting the frame under load, depending on your clearances... 

    Thanks Mtree. I looked at the frame and brakes, think that the scraping is spokes rubbing against each other where they cross? Will do a few more gentle km's to get to 100 and then take back.  Thanks for confirming that this is normal, but LBS should have pre-advised me, which makes this frustrating.

  3. Hi guys. Advice please. I had my rear carbon wheel rebuilt with new set of spokes. Road bike. Went for a ride today and after about 10km there was a scraping noise, mostly when climbing. I later stopped and found some of the spokes were not tight and rattling (also when I rode over slight bumps in the road).

    Contacted the LBS who said this is because the spokes were still settling in and was told to bring wheel in to be tightened. I was not advised of this when I collected the wheel after the build.

    Based on this logic, all new bikes sold would need to be brought back... or are wheels properly tensioned at the factory?

    Is this correct; sounds odd? 

    Any comments would be appreciated.

    Thanks. 

     

     

     

  4. 40 minutes ago, Jehosefat said:

    Short answer is that 5KVa inverters can pass through more than 5KW (usually around 8KW but it will depend on the inverter). That limit only applies to the essential part of the circuit. Anything on non-essential should still run on Eskom without a limitation.

    Long answer is that all that depends on the make and model of your inverter and how it's wired in to your DB.

    Thanks very much Jehosefat. That confirms what I was told by another this week-end. It is a relief, as I was worried the Lux inverter would be 'screaming' or pop anytime it got close to 5KW. That extra 3KW allowance is peace of mind in case anyone switches on one appliance too many (of the essentials). Have revised my layout for which plugs to put via inverter. Thanks again to the guys on this forum who gave me useful info. Just waiting for stock now. Cheers.

     

  5. 3 minutes ago, Frosty said:

    Which inverter are you looking for? There is a pass-thru option on hybrid inverters.

    Read the discussion here… https://powerforum.co.za/topic/8064-pass-through-current-in-hybrid-inverters/

    My Sunsynk shows 7700KVA but the alarm on the meter sounds whenever we exceed 5000W. The family knows not to use multiple items at the same time. Ottawa way of life we changed to in 2020.

    Thanks Frosty. I'll read through bit later. I'm looking at the Lux SNA5000. Happy to go easy during load shedding, but after that I don't want to be limited. I want all plugs on essentials, so I can choose what I want to use for 10min depending on needs. Seems crazy to then still be limited after load shedding.

  6. Hi guys. I have a technical question. If I opt for the 5kva with 1 x 5.12wkh battery (no pv's), I understand that during load shedding I'm limited to using certain appliances only at the same time, up to eg 5000 watts combined (1c battery). My question is...if there is no load shedding, can I run more than this...ie can I run eg 7000watts at the same time as I do now when using normal Eskom power? Or, does all power have to still go through the inverter and I'm limited to 5000 even though there is no load shedding? My non-essentials will be stove, geyser, pool-pump. During non-load shedding, I want to be able to use microwave, kettle, airfryer etc which are all on the essentials - at the same time?

    Guidance would be appreciated.

     

  7. 1 minute ago, Gr3mlin131 said:

    This is the Sunsynk 5,5kw. This specific view is only available if you have the CT clamp in the right position, before the main switch. So it monitors what is used before the inverter, and sends power back to power it if there is excess. The main reason I went for this inverter instead of the LuxPower/Growatt some others I know have. 

    Thanks for reply. Sunsynk, pity... it's R10k more than the others I was looking at.

  8. On 4/18/2023 at 3:18 PM, Gr3mlin131 said:

    Got panels last week and with a short google and a few settings even the geyser is being supplied when I have enough battery and solar going. Next step is more bettery to maximise the panels I have, potentially more panel if I need after that. Currently already fully charged and running only on solar by lunch time.

     

    Geyser.jpg

    Hi Gr3mlin131. What brand and model inverter is this? Screen display is quite informative - many other inverters require the app to see this info?

  9. On 4/18/2023 at 2:25 PM, FondTF2 said:

    Phase 1 of giving Eskom the middle finger completed. Harnessing the power of the sun.

    Phase 2, gas installation for stove and geysers early next week.

    Solar.jpg

     

  10. 35 minutes ago, i24 said:

    50% depth of charge sounds too much. Google "lead acid life vs depth of discharge". Most sites show 500 to 1000 cycles at 50%. With today's loadshedding that is less than a year.

    I have a 3kVA invertor with 4x100AH lead acid batteries. I try not use more than 15% depth of charge.

    The recharge time for lead acid depends on what the batteries will take rather than what the inverter can deliver. I posted the following last month.

     

    Thanks for reply i24. However, thanks to Hairy & Frosty (and a mate of mine) I've been convinced Lithium-ion LiPO4 is the way to go. I'm waiting on stock, but am opting for the Lux SNA5k hybrid inverter and a 5KW 1C battery - either the Shoto or the new Hina Hi-5 (which is new tech sodium-ion, which is apparently better and safer than Lithium?). I'll decide when stock options arrive. I'll add panels later, possibly, but should be able to manage since I've got a solar geyser. 

     

     

  11. 5 minutes ago, Hairy said:

    Also account for the Lead Acid batteries being as heavy as .... well as heavy as a lump of lead 🤣

    😄. Hey Hairy, heavy is fine...not planning on doing squats with them. Just want to get through say 3 years, then if City of CT has not implemented a solution, or if things get worse, then will go lithium and solar.

  12. 6 hours ago, Frosty said:

    Some reading:
    https://www.power-sonic.com/blog/lithium-vs-lead-acid-batteries/

    Will update a bit later, Pogácar has just attacked.

    This is a company that manufacturers both types, and list the specs for both.
    https://www.mustess.com/lithium-ion-vs-lead-acid-batteries/

    i have a few friends, plus my Mom, with these batteries.
    https://lithiumbatteriessa.co.za/pages/about-lifepo4

    Thanks again Frosty. Interesting reading. Will explore further, especially wrt positioning if I still opt for lead acid as the space I have is in a cupboard (might have to remove the doors as seems these batteries need ventilation).

    Cheers

  13. 8 minutes ago, Frosty said:

    There are a few forums, eg. www.powerforum.co.za where they can give the best advice.

    If setup correctly, fire shouldn’t be a problem. Fumes from L-A should be a concern though. Fire suppression can be built in too.

    Thanks. Will check that forum. 

  14. 1 minute ago, Frosty said:

    I would rather advise on getting a 5kW lithium battery. Weigh up the cost and life expectancy of 8x lead-acid batteries (3-4 years) vs 1x LiFePO4 (up to 10 years). You will need to double your cost of lead acid batteries. 

    Hi Frost. Bit wary of lithium. Besides the crazy  cost, concerned of fire risk as will be installed in the house. After say 3 years if batteries last that long, will review replacement options as I'm sure technology will have improved.

     

  15. Hi Hairy. Thanks. I believe it can charge at 50+A but I've been told to rather charge at 30 as it's slower and will extend the life of the batteries. Based on your answer, at a low 30w it should recharge in 3.6 hours which is great. When I'm at work or sleeping, there will be almost no power being drawn (geyser is solar) , so if I manage the system the batteries should last several years.

    Thanks again.... hope chat GPS is accurate. Ha.

  16. Hi clever people. I'm on the verge of getting a Lux 5kva inverter with 8 x 12v 100ah lead batteries (lead for several reasons) This will give 48v and 200ah. Good enough for lights, gates, TV etc and be able to defrost supper in microwave before cooking on gas and to boil a kettle. I'm just worries about being able to recharge it in times of long load shedding.

    If anyone can please help... if my 8 batteries are used to say 50%, how long would it take to charge them back to 100% based on a charge of say 30 or 50v (or is that watts)? 

    If anyone can calculate and advise on this, it would be appreciated.

    Oh, another question... planning to have inverter mounted on a wall, but is it safe to have the batteries installed in a cupboard (out of sight). (In garage not really an option).

    Cheers for now.

     

  17. Hi guys. I've also been looking at safety options. I'm considering a type of plastic 'gun' which is loaded with two pepper spray type bullets, which can be more effective from say 10m. It's called the Guardian Angel 2. Apparently much more potent than spray, as it results in a gel substance spraying open once it hits a person.  

     

    Yes there are pro's and cons.

     

    Have any of you used this? Gimmick or effective? Any feedback appreciated.

  18. Thanks all for very quick and useful feedback.

     

    The Topeak versamount seems like a great cheap solution; just hope it's long enough for a thickish square tube and as long as it's made from rubber or has a rubber backing, might just work. 

     

    BUT.... the Lyne Holy Rail seems to be the way to go. Think I'll visit their shop in Woodstock.

     

    Thanks again guys; appreciated :thumbup: .

  19. Hi guys.

     

    I'm looking to buy a particular hybrid bike, to be used for long rides as well. Trouble is, it only has one bottle cage holder.

     

    I'd like to mount a 2nd bottle cage (for a small bottle if a large won't fit), but there are no screws/holes in the frame. The vertical seattube is squareish. The only screws there are, are for the front derailleur... I'm hesitant to try squeeze a cage in there as it might impact on the setup of the gears. It's an aluxx frame. 

     

    1) I'd prefer not trying to drill holes.

    2) Don't want triathlon seat mounted bottle holders.

    3) No to camelback.

     

    Please see the attached pics of the same model bike. If anyone has any creative ideas, or is aware of a particular bracket I could use (which won't damage frame), your ideas would be appreciated. 

     

    Thanks.

    post-56548-0-42486900-1576424086_thumb.jpg

    post-56548-0-73074600-1576424099_thumb.jpg

Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout