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Chavo

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Posts posted by Chavo

  1. I have a few things for collection in Cape Town (PInelands) if anyone is interested. Would prefer that someone takes the lot. PM me if interested

     

    Two used camelbaks (one bladder has a small leak by the fill hole), two pairs XL gloves (well used), used 32t NW ring (104 BCD), pack cover, arm protectors (size: M/L), ladies First Ascent bike shorts (size M), tyre repair tools (no plugs): 

     

    post-62450-0-21846300-1619531792_thumb.jpg

     

    Two Maxxis 29er tyres: Aggressor 2.3; Ikon 2.35. Both have been plugged once and I think could be revived with a bit of a repair. Both tyres still have good tread life left.

     

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  2. just came across this thread....thought I'd share my Pascoe build....loving the bike but before i finished it i spent more than i should of on a yeti...so gotta sell one to avoid divorce haha

     

    Sprayed pearl white and copper, the head badge is Damascus steel and copper. Underneath i made a cable routing channel / bash guard and of course the trust KCNC bottle opener to cover up front derailleur mount.

     

    Hope you guys like...cheers

    The build looks lekker! But you're also trying to sell it?

  3. Hey Hubbers. I have some parts and books that I'm wanting to get rid of. I'm not wanting to split this up and would rather have someone who can pick this up in the Cape Town area (I'm in Pinelands) to take this off my hands. The pics should hopefully be self explanatory, but PM me if you have any questions or are keen on taking everything. I'll work on a first come first served basis here.

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_20210411_105852.jpg

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_20210411_104811.jpg

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_20210411_105149.jpg

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_20210411_105158.jpg

    A new home has been found for these items

  4. Hey Hubbers. I have some parts and books that I'm wanting to get rid of. I'm not wanting to split this up and would rather have someone who can pick this up in the Cape Town area (I'm in Pinelands) to take this off my hands. The pics should hopefully be self explanatory, but PM me if you have any questions or are keen on taking everything. I'll work on a first come first served basis here.

     

    post-62450-0-63773600-1618175992_thumb.jpg

     

    post-62450-0-32141000-1618176008_thumb.jpg

     

    post-62450-0-47697800-1618176021_thumb.jpg

     

    post-62450-0-68207300-1618176030_thumb.jpg

  5. Trek's Knock Block... I understand why it's needed on some frames, but you either have to use their own expensive stems on it or buy an expensive lock ring adapter to use a normal stem. It's not an item that gets changed frequently, but it makes sourcing spares more difficult and costly.

    That's much like Giant's OD/OD2 steerers...

     

    "Oversized headset bearings (1 1/4-inch top and 1 1/2-inch bottom bearings) and a tapered steerer tube combine for unprecedented steering performance with no additional weight"

     

    Yeah right, thanks for nothing besides a PITA Giant! Similarly expensive exercise to get things aligned with what everyone else used

  6. ...and please, right hand, front brake.

     

    Left hand is for clutch or rear brake only

    What if you don't moto? Besides, I don't think this is a bike industry "standards" thing. It's more personal preference IMO. You can still use brakes from 10 years ago on a bike today if you wanted, can't say the same for wheels (for example)

  7. If the hub fits in the fork, surely the end caps are irrelevant? In the one pic of the disc against mounting to the hub, there is clearly thread visible between the "back end" of the rotor and hub. The disc should presumably sit flush against the hub? Is there a spacer between the hub and disc? Clearly something is pushing the disc further away from the hub then it should be, almost as if there is a boost adapter behind the disc to use non-boost wheels in a boost fork.

  8. guess ill use this thread. there are so many.

     

    Need some advice on DMR v12's. (or similar)

     

    they seem to be some of the better priced flats these days. at about R1100 ish. I had a set of Saint mx80 ones about 2 years ago that were lekker. They were R600 when i baught them new back in the day...these days you need a second bond on your house for the flavour of the day enduro bro pedals it seems. 

     

    any insights or advice please. not spending 2,5k on a pair of flat pedals so don't even mention those lol.

     

    EDIT: not to mention everything seems out of stock everywhere. so something circa R1k

    Have you looked at or considered nylon/composite pedals at all? Can't comment on stock availability as online 'in stock' can always be a gamble, but the OneUp pedals may be worth considering. Check out Trail Tech Cycles https://trailtechcycles.co.za/collections/pedals

  9. I agree, why go cleats? For someone on a budget, going cleats is not only new pedals but also new shoes. While flat pedal specific shoes are definitely the way to go, you can get away with something in between and still get out and ride. Same can't be said for cleats. Besides that, there is no motivation provided as to why someone should switch to cleats. What benefits are being punted?

  10. Ah, thank you very much. Have read that, and I'm unfortunately not a really good DIY guy at all. Will see what the sprocket & jack guys say. 

     

    For curiosity's sake, how do I tell if the frame is a "newer frame"? I suppose just look for that pre drilled hole? 

    Honestly cannot be sure if there is a specific identifier on the frames aside from essentially whether or not the routing hole exists. I received a frame in early 2015 as a warranty replacement that had the routing hole already so perhaps anything prior to this didn't. But ultimately either the frame has the routing hole or it doesn't

  11. Morning gents. Are there any One Ten owners with drop posts? 

     

    I was looking at the Lyne dropper and unsure of the option of internal or external cabling. 

    The newer OneTen frames came with a pre-drilled hole to install an internally routed dropper, which is located toward the bottom of the seat tube facing rearwards. There has been previous discussion on this thread about drilling the hole yourself if you have one of the earlier iterations of the frame. You can chat to the guys at Pyga about how to go about it, but here is a link to one of the first posts asking the question https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/119246-post-your-pyga/?p=2711559. The discussion about how to drill the hole yourself follows thereafter.

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