Spoke n Bean

The water was also finished for us marathon guys at the last water point. I was quite well up the miff tree by then as I was moeg and hot. One oke decided that vloeking the poor okes helping at the table as if they planned the event was a viable solution (let's be better). But ja, the organizers probably didn't see it getting so hot on the day and these things are organized far ahead of time. I hope they can learn from it, but I've been at many entry water tables at trailseekers in my time. I'm usually batch B or C, and I know the lower batches often sukkel more with water as they're out there longer, but to run out of water when c, d and e batches are coming through is bad news. Anyways, it was a tough, but great race out there. Those trails were awesome!

Also went the ALi Express route. The one I ordered has shimano packaging, so I'm hoping it will yield good results. Ordered the whole lot up until 18th to replace the bottom half of the cassette, I think this way helps as a proof of concept as well as getting more life from the cassette overall. SJS cycles uk, Bike discount de, worldwide cyclery, and various other internationals seem to stock all sorts of cassette spares, but shipping is the killer. Will report back on my ali express order regarding originality, delivery, etc.

I just replaced my shimano SLX chain on my bike at 0.5 and the 10t cog is slipping and skipping and dancing around. Awfully frustrating. Cassette is Deore, rest is slx. Anyway, anyone with stock, please let me know asap. Thanks. Ru

I had the same issue on a build I did many years ago when converting a 26er frame to 650b. I eventually found a lower headset that converted from straight to tapered, it was by far the cheapest route because I got the fork for cheap. The headset is an EC or external cup headset and will make the bearing sit below the headset though. So you'll have an extra 10mm or so height to deal with, but I was okay with that as it slackened the bike a bit. I got it on amazon or ebay I think, but google a bit and you'll probably find some: https://www.bike24.com/p2305300.html It might be a better solution than buying a crummy fork just because it's all that fits. *Edit: Also make sure the headtube can actually fit the steerer. Otherwise you may be up a proverbial creek. The hollower ones usually do.

You would probably find the hardtail is more forgiving given the terrain you will find if you're venturing the distance off road. If you need to hit some soft sand or rocks, you'll be very thankful to have brakes close to your fingers and the slightly more upright position will help too. Look, I think gravel bikes are great, but other than riding many many miles on the side of the road, you may need to venture far out to find a place with decent distance or maybe do laps. I agree not to buy a fat bike unless it's a toy. First prize would be to have an MTB and a Gravel bike IMHO.

Am I reading this right? R575 for an hour of riding?

Gosh this is heartbreaking! Really hope they build back and we see them again!

I replaced my Thule one at their store, but it cost more than you paid for the rack, just for the arm...

I second the comments regarding the extra travel fork, one tends to eat through a forks travel depending on weight and form. * edit * That slade looks perfect for all the below.. As you get more experience you'll realise the bike is more playful, negating the immediate need to go for a dual sus, while still offering great xc performance and trail capability. One must-have upgrade is a really solid rear tyre, I am heavy on rear tyres and barely weigh 80. A double down casing on a Maxxis tyre will save your sidewalls and rims on some seemingly very innocent stones if you clip them wrong, heck, even a sneaky root or sidewalk can catch you out. My spec summary in order of importance: Good rear tubeless tyre (strongest casing) Dropper post Air shock 120mm travel at least Through axle (if possible within budget) Boost spacing - merely for future proofing reasons 1x compatible hubs, sram xd or shimano microspline This should see you on a decent steed and ready for lots of fun!

I received my annual safedays payment this month - I used it to finish my hope + spank wheel-set build! Thanks, Multiply!

With a conventional shimano mtb freehub you should be able to use a Sunrace 12 speed cassette and a Shimano deore upgrade kit. Buy the full upgrade kit, smash the chain and cassette on classifieds and grab a kmc chain and sunrace cassette. Voila. Other option is to buy a hub and have someone do the swap for you, but it will cost a few randelas more. At the moment the Shimano 12 speed kits are cheaper than most 1x11 upgrade kits with rear derailleurs as cheap as R1200. I recently had to replace my gx rear mech in a pinch and bought the slx one for R1399 as I couldn't wait for delivery from Bike Addict, funny thing is it works with the Sram shifter, chain and cassette, no problems, smoother even...

Size wise, I prefer going a size up, I'm on the verge of Medium/Large and no matter what I tried on mediums, I was not comfortable. The large with a shorter stem and good setup worked well for me.

I 100% agree that a trail bike is your best bet. Since you mentioned you are struggling with your back, I would think the extra 'forgiveness' for lack of a better word would really help you. Someone on here mentioned the Merida One-Twenty 9 600. It's an amazing bike, the higher models barely have better spec, it's worth keeping the nx specc'd one and just buy a shimano SLX upgrade kit, it will still end up being cheaper. Get a good setup on a decent trail bike and you'll love riding forever! I personally went a bit further and took the Merida one forty with 150mm front travel, its only limitation is when I get slaughtered at XC races, but I'm there for fun, I survive the racey bits but really thrive on the more downhilly stuff. I loved the A-line at van Gaalens and Buffelsdrift trailseekers last year. My best advice. buy the bike you're most comfortable on. Few of us normal mortal humans with "office backs" can rarely enjoy a XC bike for what it's worth. If you're riding for fun, don't bother with carbon. Get the best specc'd aluminium bike you can afford and enjoy it. (I can from a 12kg Scott spark 650b carbon to my 15kg Merida and I can honestly say being lighter didn't make me faster)

I've used clips all my life and recently converted to flats. I can't see myself going back to clips, I have so much more fun and confidence. I've practiced 'scooping' my foot on the upstroke and I've broken some of my old strava hill records. I do suggest good shoes and pedals though. The one up composites are the best bang for buck at the moment and there are mad specials on Leatt shoes too. You can get pedals and shoes for close to 2 grand all in.

Had the 11-42 10 speed sunrace on my scott spark 730. 34 oval at the front and worked like a dream until it was nicked. I have the eagle 50 on my new bike now and the only difference I felt was the jumps between gears are smaller. I was stronger for it though, you're forced to take that tougher gear if the next one is too light.