RossW

Also been trying to get Geo of the Monterey ('06). I am sure it will not have changed from the '08. May I have a copy too please

Calling all knowledgeable people out there! What model Orbea is this? I have searched the site and the best I can come up with is the LOBULAR. The bike in photo is a 52cm but must have very relaxed geo looking at the gap between the top tube and down tube at the head tube weld. Any guesses would be appreciated.

I've transported a couple of bikes which route cables under the downtube. Just make sure the cables fit the the "V" of the clamp and you'll be smiling.

+1

I wear Cape Storm small shorts and tops, First Ascent small shorts, tops and bibs. I'm 1.72m, waist 29" and weigh 60kg and the small mens bib and top fits me fantastically. Sizing is closer to Cape Storm than First Ascent with FA being slightly bigger cut. Very comfy chamois - on par with the Cape Storm Matrix shorts.

Why is it sounding that reconditioning does not work? I have also been advised on strength conditioning which after 1 year of Pilates, 3 times a week is obviously not working. I am very against a procedure to which there is no "undo" procedure. Especially since there is always the chance that the procedure may not work and then what does one do? I went through numerous visits to the orthopedic and at two of those consults I received cortisone injections in to the ITB above and below the knee; where the ITB attaches to the shin and where it has friction over the knee. So I guess all that is left is the procedure ....

I've been suffering with ITB for coming to 3 years now. Can not even walk a 5km route without it becoming sore; the hillier the route, the shorter the distance before it's painful. I have pain after cycling especially after riding a lot hills. Is the release op when they cut through half of the ITB and then dog-ear it?

Dare I mention ROAG in this whole dirty and tiring affair?! I'm sure a lot of the entries are from GP but why not put a local company to do the entries? Additionally, when ROAG was initially formed, they had extended periods of heavy server requests on a rather "basic" server. Since then they have upgraded so I think they would have handled it "No problem!"

I have a Superlight and it's a fantastic ride; okay I only weigh in at 59kg but still it's all relative since you are able to set the air shock etc. The only other bike I would get is the Zula (Being in PMB there are a lot here and they ride like a dream). I believe the Superlight and Zula are pretty much the same price and as I can see it are direct competitors with both having a single pivot design. Does the Yeti have single pivot? I am not sure on that one so please let me know ...

Next ride?

I've got the Suunto t4c. Great watch; does everything I need. The t3c is a great device too. But like said before, make a list of what you want it to do and go from there. They are all good after all, bar maybe the Sigma; not really a fan based purely on visual and sorry, the price. It just seems too cheap.

I think they are talking bull. At least for energy consumption while riding, they could be including the energy use which happens after the ride, while metabolic rate is elevated. If this is the case, then they need to be more specific. Also the terms Kcal, cal and KJ are too often mixed up and used in place of each other. Remember, Kcal = 1000 cal and 1 cal = 4.2 KJ. A 70kg man for weight maintenance requires approximately 10 000KJ per day (we are all different so excuse the round number in my example). A rider burning 8 000Kcal = 8 000 000 cal which in turn = 33 000 000KJ; please refer back to 70kg man weight maintenance KJ requirement! I know the HR monitors measure in Kcal. I must only think that the use of Kcal and Cal are one and the same. In which case 33 000 000 KJ becomes 33 000 KJ. Don't believe everything!

Been using the discs for about 3 months now and am very happy with them! On some decents the heat generated is insane (nice smell) but the stopping power does not decrease significantly. I did at one stage though feel that I wasn't going to stop in time but in the end not a big worry as things worked out. In a nutshell, if you want "cheap" and light rotors, these should be high on your list. They have eaten my organics at a frightening rate an about to get a semi-metallic replacement pair so things should be better with regard to wear rate.

I bought some just before the volcano first hit...they were sold out again with in 17 hours of getting stock. You got to be fast! Although here I am talking about the Hope Hoops ... My thought exactly. Also, having them black (boring as some might say ) Means you can slip under the radar until you freewheel, ha ha ha.

Maybe then the best is the semi-metal ... I believe it is sort of best of both worlds.

WW, I've already split a small section of the yellow tape on my 355's trying to get another UST tyre on ... I'm sticking to non-tubeless on the 355's from now on. At least the yellow tape is not leaking air even with the split. I'm dead keen on trying the Aspen - so light in the hand. When my money tree grows I'll get one for the front. I was also looking at the RK protection ... decent price and weight I thought.

Any feedback on how they performed? I'm particularly interested in the SB8 performance in front.

I want to re-use the tyre if possible Rude! ... LOL @Stevie911, I don't have metal tyre levers but my plastic ones have done to the rubbish bin after working on the tyre for 45min this morning. I got hot under the collar eventually and just pumped it up again! I'm not sure what the problem is because I moved it from back to front, also a DTSwiss rim and that wasn't that bad. It went on easily as well but obviously has fallen in love with the front rim

WW must be doing a double flip in excitement that you are getting Aspens! If I hadn't laid out so much cash in the past fortnight I'd also be getting an Aspen for the front, instead I have had to settle for a double SB8 DTC (FR/RR) combo. Will have to see how it works. Bit of a highjack, but I'm REALLY struggling to get a UST Monorail off a DTSwiss 455 rim. Any ideas?

Nice review, thanks for posting it! Yea, I will have to get sintered. But having laid out quite a lot of cash on Hope Hoops, Gobi and Candy SL's I'll let these get eaten and then get new pads. Will be interesting to see how the sintered perform in comparison to the soon to be killed resin pads...

SB8 is now in the front. So running SB8's front and back ... Any opinions or experiences with this combination? Not sure what to do with the Tiger Claw now - it's sulking in the corner of the garage. What are the advantages of having a tyre with such big volume? Pinch-flats are eliminated I'm sure and it's probably a much smoother ride due to the casing absorbing some of the impacts but anything else? The width is also really big, looked as big as a DH tyre from the top, advantages?

Washers removed and the fit in the front is spot on! Don't know why those washers were there because from looking at my pads, the were doing pretty much the same on my old rotors so this is the better fit for both rotors now. Thanks for the help guys! I'll be giving feedback on rotors in the very near future now that I have a proper bite between pads and rotors.

Rotors worked really well this evening. Good bite even with the point discussed above. I'll be doing the removal of washers tomorrow and will then get back to everyone on how they fit and also on the rotor performace; very pleased thus far.

Verdict is in: They grip supremely! Point and shoot kind of grip - love it. However, I was ripped off constantly due to their size. They really are big big tyres. Wide (you definitely getting your 2.4 value for money) and huge huge volume. I'm not so sure these are for me ... But I don' know what else to put in front, at least from the choice in MY garage - no one dare mention mountain king etc. I have monorail UST and SB8 DTC to choose from. Which do you think for the coming Karkloof? I'm not going to be riding with this tyre that is for sure...

Sweet, will do that. Got the Karkloof this weekend so a great testing ground. I do know already that they are rapidly eating my resin Shimano pads! So much so that after a leisurely ride around the block with my sister, I could blow brake debris off the rotor - a move to semi-metal or sintered looks to be on the cards. The washer is between the caliper and the adapter. Could be playing with fire because then the bleed valve is very close/against the adapter. Yea, the back is a very good fit at 160mm but the front misses by about 1mm to 1.5mm on the outside of the rotor ...