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Fat Boab

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Posts posted by Fat Boab

  1. 1 hour ago, taito said:

    The social media side has always been lacking as in ,,,more coverage on the route, even this year there was hardly any updates on the tail enders -the real worriers that make the event.

    Also the teams thing,,  The Munga is supposed to be the toughest solo single stage race there is and now you have riders joining all over SA-- its just not the same.

     

    Since this morning there has been no update from the media on all the riders out there--where are they??whats their chances of making it.??? That is  what the media is supposed to do--we want to support the back marker just as much as the leaders..

    Any idea if there was a e-bike circus like a previous year?

  2. If you search here for Touring, you'll find a substantial thread with lots of useful info. Also search classifieds...someone was recently selling a full set if Arkel panniers and racks.

     

  3. A couple of additions to the excellent advice so far:

    1. Look up the specs for the RD part number.

    2. The largest sprocket value from the spec should be considered a conservative guideline (ie often you can shift larger sprockets than the spec with no problems...but not always. I shift +2 over my RD max spec with no issues whatsoever.)

    3. Overcoming a shifting issue from 2 above can include an RD extender and/or B screw manipulation, new longer B screw or even reversing the B screw. Plenty more on this on the web.

     

    Lots of hacks around if a 34-28 granny gear isn't big enough!

  4. 54 minutes ago, David Marshall said:

    Chances are that you have a short cage RD in which case the biggest ring on the cassette that your derailleur can handle will be 28 or max 29T.  This will make a massive difference compared to the current 23 and will probably solve your problem.  If not enough the next step would be to change the 36T chainring for a 34.

    In the unlikely event of this not being enough you could try a derailleur extender and go to a maximum of 32T at the back. At this point I would not spend any more money.

    Be careful of mixing new with old.  The current 10 speed Tiagra components are not compatible with the older 10 speeds.

    Was just about to type this...sagely advice!

  5. Or drive out and park at the multitude of venues out there and avoid the dodgy bits of traffic? As demonstrated above, plenty of people ride out but lots also drive out. I'm lucky...I live on the Cradle route itself so best of both worlds for me!

  6. 5 hours ago, bleedToWin said:

    Look at similar specced bikes from the same era. Look at what could be bought new.

    Post specs and you'll get advice.

    Challenge accepted!

    Fuji Gran Fondo 2.1.

    Carbon frame and fork (it's an endurance focused frame). 2013/14 model (I think). Can take upto and including 28mm wide tyres.

    10 speed Shimano 105 group set. 53/39 175mm cranks.

    Rim brakes (105).

    Alloy wheels.

     

    Any thoughts on pricing would be appreciated.

  7. Hi, I've been asked by a mate, who is departing these shores, to assist in selling his road bike (a Fuji Gran Fondo 2.1). Does anyone know of any accurate means of pricing such a bike in SA? E.g do we have a blue-book equivalent or database here? I'm happy to give the specs if people are able to eyeball a price range that I could list it for?

     

  8. On 2/9/2022 at 7:47 PM, Newbie321 said:

    As we all know strava's power estimates are not the best, for instance my avg 'watts' on the MTB is higher than on my road bike despite normally actually taking it easier on the MTB (probably due to riding a bit on tar to get to the trails)

    Out of interest I decided to see if I could work out what my avg watts would be using the Calorie count generated by my Garmin with a HRM. The formula ended up being (Cal * 4.186 * .22 * 1000) / (Time in Minutes * 60), I just took the standard kj to calories formula and moved the variables around. The .22 is assuming and average metabolic efficiency, this could go higher or lower the fitter you are.

    While the avg watts measure is still subject to lots of errors, it does do a better job of normalizing the effort between different bike types IMO:

    image.png.7fe97c86acf3b5109e892f7e96e6bae6.png

     

    Just thought I'd share and see what people think

    Do you have any idea how Strava estimates power? (Honest question as I don't know the answer).

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