Jehosefat

Just getting in to the woodworking thing. Some wine racks and a bird feeder so far. All out of pallet wood with a touch of ply here and there.

Aussie oke just ate track after his handlebars failed ???? Thankfully he looks ok

You calculated it yourself. The item cost R1,000 and the VAT was R205.50 therefore a 20.55% effective VAT rate on the purchase price.

Practically that is kinda what happens. Depends on the customs official that your shipment ends up with I guess. I've imported 2 Canyons and didn't get charged duty on either but I know a couple of other people who did.

Alternatively you can make your own zero clearance track for a circular saw with 2 bits of MDF or plywood (I used plywood but I reckon MDF would have been a better option). Works like a bomb and is pretty cheap.

Only problem being that the links you posted are impact drills and he's looking for an impact driver. Different tools (the impacts are in different directions).

Fair point, but those are not the rides where you are desperate for a cold drink

Does anyone have a recommendation for a reasonably good dowelling jig that isn't super expensive and actually available in the country (or northern Joburg for preference)?

If your drinks are still cold in non-insulated bottles, your ride was probably way too short for you to need the bottles in the first place.

Pull ratio is how much the derailleur moves relative to how much the cable is pulled and has nothing to do with cog spacing. They can definitely be the same even if cog spacing is different because the differing spacing is handled by how much cable the shifter actually pulls per shift. What is important is that the shifter and derailleur are designed for the same pull ratio otherwise you will get too much or too little movement per shift.

Not only carried on, overtook 57 other riders as well after getting the brake lever replaced.

This. And yeah, as far as I know Chris is the main contact. Also if you are feeling super enthusiastic, the Qhubeka double lap group has a bunch of people who do the first lap on their road bikes and then the second lap on a Buffalo bike (I wasn't brave enough and did both laps on my road bike).

It's gonna be a very tough second half. I really liked the "old" route which was mostly downhill once you made it half way.

Life is too short to spend more than 2 hours on the IDT in one go.

Locking up the front usually won't result in an OTB because the braking force actually reduces when the wheel locks. It's more likely that the wheel slides out to the side and you land on your shoulder and/or face.

Be thankful that you didn't lock up the front brake. That's a quick way to an involuntary lie down. In general it will be much harder to lock the front brake than the back due to the "weight transfer" when braking. To adjust the bite point, you can take the front wheel out and squeeze the front brakes a little, if you squeeze them just enough the pads will be closer to the rotor when you put the wheel back in. If you squeeze it too much then you won't be able to get the wheel back in and you will need to open the reservoir at the lever, pop in a bleed funnel and gently push the pistons apart again. Can be a bit of a hack so go very gently. This approach can be pretty hit and miss depending on a bunch of factors (like how true your rotors are)

There is already a whole thread about this: https://forum.bikehub.co.za/topic/186574-best-online-shops/#entry3700646

Yes, assuming everything is from Europe. I don't know what the duties are from other countries/continents. As far as the Importers code goes, that's also pretty hit and miss. I don't think they police it too closely. My first Canyon was above the R50k limit and imported that on my ID number no problem. Already had an importers code when I bought the second one though.

Theoretically from Europe: R7,500 in duty and about R9,500 in VAT. (15% duty and 15% VAT on 110% of the shipment value (so effectively 16.5% VAT)). Practically, you might end up paying that or you might end up just paying R8,250 in VAT. Really depends on which customs official you get and whether they decide it's a complete bike or if it's bike parts (only applicable if it's at least partially disassembled for shipping). I've had both approaches happen to me both on complete Canyon bikes so it's a bit of a lottery.

I'm pretty sure it's based on some modelled power curve (e.g. Morton's critical power model). And just like the 95% of 20 min max power, it's only going to be accurate for certain people. I've seen some papers that show, in testing, that while the 95% of 20min power is pretty close to the average, for individuals their true FTP lies anywhere between around 90% and 97% of their 20min max.

My tapering is usually 2 weeks with the rides keeping the same intensity but working down to about 1/2 to 1/3 of the time of my full training.

Yeah, I'm pretty jealous that my GF is in Group 1... Group 3 for me is not too bad though should be done around 13:00 to 13:30

Wessel from https://masteringmtbskills.com/ is really good as well. They run lessons all over Joburg and Pretoria almost every weekend.

Maybe in terms of feel but a 34t ring will have the same cadence at the same speed regardless of whether it's round or oval so if you are spinning out, shifting to an oval won't make a difference. It might help a bit on the climbs because of the power distribution around the pedal stroke though. To answer the OP though, go 34t and ride better downhills. If you are doing 50kph and still pedaling the you are basically riding down a road... do a proper trail and you won't be sitting down and pedaling regardless of the speed.

Vitality don't care what the workout is. They are only interested in how long it is and what your average heart rate is. So as long as your heart rate is above 70% of (220 - age) and you ride for at least 30 minutes you will get points.