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Found 13 results

  1. Whilst I was out Cycling last week, I bust my SHIMANO Crank. How does one Brake a CRANK? Can I claim for a Warranty, it' been Barely Used. Please give me your thoughts, Thanks. David
  2. Hi Guys I'm very new to the world of MTB'ing, so hope I can draw from some expert knowledge here before having to head out to a workshop. I have a Titan 650b (just over a month old) and it's been riding like a dream. However from yesterday afternoon, whenever I'm pedaling I get a single *click* sound on my right pedal when it's at the top of the rotation (12 o'clock position) and my left pedal makes like a ratchet sound starting from the 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock position. So I end up with this *click* right and then ratchet Left on every pedal cycle. Any ideas what could be causing this? I can't see anything visible and wasn't about to take the entire bike apart before seeking some advice? I looked on the web, but these answers seem very varied. It happens in all my gears and regardless of seating or standing position. When I'm "freeing" downhill, there is no sound so guessing crank maybe? Thanks all, I'd really appreciate you input. Cheers!
  3. I took a big rock strike today, which unfortunately stripped one of my Sram XX1 cranks to such a degree that the pedal subsequently fell out after a bit of riding. Unfortunately a new Sram XX1 crankset is out of the question, even the Gx crankset at R3k is eye watering! I see Rapide sell a set of cranks without the chain-ring for a much more palatable R1k, is this a good option!? I'm not particularly concerned about the crank weight as I mainly ride Trail/Enduro trails! Are there any other brands that I should be looking at? Alternatively if its feasible, where would one go to have the stripped thread removed from the crank and a new thread installed?
  4. Hi all, Hope all are well and safe. I need help with pricing on a power meter. I have a 4iiii Precision Ultegra left crank which I would like to sell. Bought the power meter the 8th of August 2018. Unit is still in a very good condition. Thanks for your time and input.
  5. Hi all, Please can you help me. I have replaced almost everything that can make a cracking noise like this but still it won't go away. Does someone maybe know the possible reasons for this sound in my video above. I replaced the following already - Sprocket Rear Derailer Chain BB You would really make my year if you can give me the solution because I don't know anymore. Kind regards Jaco
  6. Good day guys, some advice please. Have a 2003 Look KG386 9spd roadbike. Rear groupset very small 11/23 Dura Ace and front 53/39. It's very hilly here in our parts and I'm looking to buy a new groupset back. I don't want to change the crank in the front. Must replace chain. Is it possible to only change groupset and chain? And with Dura ace being outdated, what groupset should I be looking for?
  7. Ok, here is my story On the 12th of July 2016 I walked into Lynwood cycles and saw the bike of my dreams standing there a Brand new Specialized Venge , The bike was sold as soon as it caught my eye I had the bike for a day when the first trouble started with the cable routing, where the gears could not keep the tension and the cables had to be rerouted by them. problems solved no issues Then the creeking started, this was about a week after my last visit , They disassembled the bike to figure out they did not have the tools to take the bottom bracket off So they basically took the chain rings off ,glued them with Loctite , They then told me that they had epoxied the BB's one side onto the frame? Alu on Alu epoxied? The next day they told me they decided to take the epoxy off again(I have not had the bike back in this time) When I eventually got my bike back, I noticed the BB scratched (obviously from using the wrong tools) The rear wheel was scratched on the Hub (and greased with about 200ml of grease to the extent of not even hearing the thing when freewheeling) I was told that the bike was still creeking and I should ride it until they had the tools to take the BB off, so I rode it like this until they eventually got the tools in, Took it back again, they apparently stripped the thing to the bearings, They told me if this solution does not solve the problem, they do not know what to do further? Got the bike back, and yes the creeking is still there Today was just the cherry on the cake when the derailleur overthrew the chain into the rear wheel and I was left stranded at the Suikerbos reserve, (this has never happened to me in over 10 years of cycling) I am real disappointed in the bike, but do not wish to "name and shame" Lynwood cycles as they have tried to help fix the problem, the thing here is the problem is not going away.. Every trip has had me going all the way from Vereeniging to Pretoria ..which I cannot afford in terms of time.. I would like to ask the people on this forum for help, Where do I stand with the warranty on this issue of specifically the creeking , Can this be claimed under a warranty from a legal perspective? I would really appreciate any help Regards Gerhard
  8. First Look Friday is an introduction to the products that we are currently testing for review. This week we're featuring the Evil The Following, Olympic Crank R mountain bike shoes and the TomTom Spark. Click here to view the article
  9. Good Morning all, Im looking for some advise please as this is all quiet new to me. Im looking to put a compact crank on my road bike. I currently have the Truvativ Elita cranks with an FSA BB. My bike is nothing special, its a Fuji Roubaix Pro 06 with 105 components. Is it really worth while spending the extra money and putting a Ultegra or Dura-Ace crank on the bike? Im not unhappy with the Truvativ. Will I get away with rather putting on a FSA Vero crank or something like that or am I wasting my money. Do they really flex that much etc. (If I put on the FSA, I will be upgrading the BB to the Shimano version) I do intend on replacing my bike later in the year so I don't want to waste money either on useless cranks or over upgrading. Any guidance would be great. Thanks Dani
  10. So I've been struggling for a while to get my crank loose as the self extracting bolt was extremely tight. I eventually got it loose today after getting some more leverage using a seatpost. Now I have come accross a new problem. On the Specialized you loosen the bolt on the drive side and it comes off easily(once you get the bolt to turn). What you are left with then is the non drive side and spindle going through the BB. For the life of me I cannot get it to budge. I've banged it with a rubber mallet from a few angles but it is not moving a single millimeter. Am I missing a trick here or has the grease dried up or turned into a paste effectively glueing the crank to the BB? The BB was replaced a week before Joberg2C so it is just over a month old. Does anyone have some tips or tricks I can try to get the crank out?
  11. Dear All Technical equipped Hubbers I have a Anthem X1 Carbon which has xt crank, when i ride there is a clicking when pedaling, it is only under load and creeks when under high load. I have stripped the crack, cleaned it and re-lubed it, and it has made no difference. Does anyone else have this issue and if so have you been able to fix it or can i have some suggestions please Thanks!
  12. I recently had my Specialized Stump jumper guaranteed by the agents (for which I am grateful) but the design has apparently changed and after taking it back to the agents and being told "we don't know how" to fix it, " I must monitor it" my bike looks like it 3 years old. My problem is this: the BB housing has been made wider on the new model, after spacing the chain ring as far away from the chain stay as possible...I find it cutting into my bike!!!!! I have taken it to the agents twice and two other bike shops, and they dont know how this happens???? Can any one tel me how I can get hold of the "Top Dog" because I am fed up with poor service, and I think it is a design flaw. If the bike was designed for a 11 speed application, surely this should have been a part of my warrantee.. Please help
  13. I am converting a roadie frame into a single speed commuter. I have been been given a Shimano MTB crankset for free. But now I am confused as to which BB to put on the bike. Do I put on a MTB BB and the put the spacers on the frame side? Or do I put on a road BB to fit the frame and then put the spacers on the crank side (outside) of the BB? Have I made a boobie by having to choose a BB? PS: if anyone knows where I can get a set of FREE road brake callipers you would rock a lot!
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