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  1. Hubbers, Have an interesting situation, about a month ago my Di 2 battery started draining overnight, whereas before I could ride for 3 months before needing recharge. Got to the point where it drained completely from fully charge overnight. Took it to my LBS and after 2 weeks just replaced the battery and all sorted. Then the next issue appeared, on my first ride back after the battery replacement I noticed moisture in the DI2 display screen, no issues though, a week later I go for a ride and the system starts to change gears on its own...from granny to big ring going uphill...loads of fun with tired legs and there is nothing you can do about it except stop and try to shift the gears to a more appropriate gear setting. Took the bike back to LBS, off course the answer is there is moisture in the system which short circuit the computer and causes it to reset and results in gear changes. This after only 11 months of owning the system and being advised this is not a warranty issue but my negligence...pay up and smile. The answer from Shimano, you shouldn't get water onto your DI2 display...this is a MTB after all. This is one of the better systems to change gears with precision in wet, muddy conditions after all, or at least that is the sales pitch Been riding with my Garmin for the last 8 years, through all sorts of conditions and never had this problem, it just keeps going. So be warned, if you are going to ride in rainy conditions. Anyone else had the same problem?
  2. Hi everyone, I've got Avid Elixir CR brakes that combined with Sram X7 shifters. I've converted to 1 x 10 and want to replace the rear shifter with a Shimano SLX. But there's an issue with not being able to use my existing clamp. Apparently they're not so easy to get hold of either. Does anyone know where I can find one? Thanks Pic just shows current clamp with sram x7 shifter.
  3. Hope there is some hubbers that can assist with this issue of setting up a Shimano 11 Speed Front derailleur. I recently bought a brand new 11 speed 105 groupset (Excluding crankset, as I have a BB30 Carbon FSA crank) The issue is that I can simply can't get the FD setup properly. When FD is setup so that the chain does not rub against the FD while in big chainring and 2nd sprocket from the top, the chain will rub against the FD when I'm in the smallest sprocket, and vice-versa. I have setup the trim settings properly, but this still doesn't help. I built the same groupset onto my brothers bike (Italian import), no issues whatsoever and works like a charm. Only difference is that he has a braze on fitting as part of the frame, as opposed to my FD with normal bracket around seat tube. He also uses the 105 crankset as opposed to my FSA. I built the groupset onto my Cannondale Supersix. Added in-line barrel adjuster for fine tuning. Setup exactly as per Shimano instructions - No luck. I have taken this to 2 bike shops - no luck either. As always works fine on a bike stand, but when you actually ride it and the horizontal forces come into play it is a different story. From what I've managed to research there is no difference between FSA 10 speed / 11 speed cranksets. Any additional insight would be welcomed.
  4. Following the market availability of Dura-Ace R9100-series Di2 components, Shimano has released the latest version of its E-TUBE Di2 programming app for Android and IOS platforms. This new technology allows users to customise Di2 functions wirelessly through Bluetooth-enabled tablets and mobile devices. Click here to view the article
  5. This is my second set of XTR pedals that broke like this. Pretty much the end of your ride when this happens. Not very confidence inspiring. Anyone else seeing this on these pedals and can it be repaired?
  6. So when changing brake disk pads again.. and I have reached the conclusion that Calipers have a dominant and a non dominant side ...and always seem to wear down one pad a lot quicker than the other (the dominant) So I was thinking of running a metal disk on the dominant and a resin disk on the non dominant sides. as i only thought of this after i took out the old worn pads i'll have to wait until the new ones wear down so i can make a note Although i would assume the piston on the hose banjo side probably responds a touch faster and does more work.
  7. Hey bikehub peeps I'm considering an upgrade, and wanted to pick y'all brains on what would be a fair price if I decided to sell my current bike. Raleigh Team full Carbon frame (2009 If I'm not mistaken?) with Dedaccia Carbon fork. Carbon Seat Post Shimano R500 Wheels Shimano 105 10 Speed Groupset. Size 54cm. CT based. It has a few minor scratches on it and needs a good clean, but otherwise looks good and works 100%. Seat & Bar wraps are starting to show wear. I've loved it despite the fact that its actually too small for me. I'm considering an upgrade to the correct size. This is the closest to a comparison that I can find online (although the components are a bit different, the frame is the same) https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/23481-raleigh-team-full-carbon-bargain/ Any input re:price would be appreciated!
  8. I fitted a new Shimano XT clutch rear derailleur to my trail bike two years ago when I built it up from new. I went for 1x10 setup using a 42 expander and a 32t n/w chainring. A year or so in and I started dropping the chain quite regularly. I replaced the chain, cassette, expander as well as the chain ring (which was quite worn given a poor chain line, which was corrected with the new chainring). Soon after this I'd occasionally still drop my chain. I shortened the chain to what was possible with the bike "fully compressed" in the lowest gear and all the air released from the rear shock. And frustratingly I'd still drop my chain (yes, the clutch was always engaged). Did a little google research and found that the clutch unit on XT and XTR clutch derailleurs could be adjusted by simply removing the plastic clutch cover on the derailleur and tightening the adjuster screw. The recommendation was to tighten in quarter turn increments given the derailleur's sensitivity to these adjustments. I was not aware of this prior to reading reading one of the articles. I removed clutch cover hoping that the adjustment would sort out my chain dropping issues. To my surprise the "cam unit" was broken (at this stage I did not know this part is called a cam unit)! This is the first time the clutch cover was removed and neither had I ever caught the derailleur against a rock etc. My first thought was oh fook, I need a new derailleur. Then thought of asking if any fellow hubbers had a trashed derailleur from which I could salvage the "cam unit". Then did a little more research only to discover that the cam unit (now discovered its name) commonly fails/breaks and can easily be replaced. I found the replacement unit on bike-components.de at the exorbitant price of EUR1.64. I ordered 4 units (along with a new campy chorus group set for my new road bike build...). Hopefully all arrives in the next week or two. Hopefully dropped chains will be a thing of the past as I honestly do not know how long I've been riding with a broken clutch unit. The derailleur still functions normally, just without the clutch. A pic of where the unit sits in the derailleur (sorry, pic's a little out of focus), the broken cam unit cage as well as the replacement part taken from the bike-components.de website. Hope my experience helps anybody else in trying to ID one possible reason for a dropped chain when using an XT clutch derailleur. Edit: changed bikediscount.de to bike-components.de
  9. I'm currently riding a Scott Spark 930 and I've upgraded it to a XT 1x11 and I have a XT stages power meter on it. I really enjoy the ride and I'm considering a new set of wheels (American Classic Wide) or "maybe" carbon South Industries. The issues comes in when you start looking at the numbers to upgrade VS buying new. My core challenge I have with "upgrading" the wheels and perhaps other bits and pieces, brakes (from deore --> XT), is whether or not the "platform" as in the frame is worth it to upgrade on. Considering costs, I'm looking at the following: - Wheels 8-20k - XT brakes 3k - Misc (handlebar, stem etc) - R3k - And we haven't discussed possible DI2 / 2x11 config. - And and we haven't looked at the front fork. So the upgrade costs (ex DI2) puts me in the R15k - R20k range to spend. Considering the bike is 18months old, I feel I could get R25k for it second hand, putting me in the R50k range to purchase new. I'm a touch undecided on the path forward. Any cool ideas or tips would be appreciate. Cheerio
  10. who stocks shimano saint spares in ZA? i broke the rear cage on the derailleur...only place that i can find that sells it is in uk,https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-chain-guide-plate-ss-for-saint-zee-inside-90973/wg_id-453,or does someone have one i can buy off them
  11. Hi all. So I am in search of an opinion from you guys. I bought some wheels, Shimano RS81 C24 wheels, in June 2016 (so basically 5 months ago). I have not been riding much and put around 1,500 km on them. On a recent ride I noticed some damage around the nipples on the rim (see the pictures) that seems to have been caused by corrosion or the carbon bubbling. I was naturally upset about this as I have never seen something like this and I am normally careful with my things. I took it back to CWC for a warranty claim but they said it's normal wear and tear and thus not a warranty claim. I went back again and they said they will come back to me, but I have not hear anything again. (I even went back for a 3rd time). I understand damage like this could occur after a few years, but I find it extreme to happen in such a short period of time. I have used multiple Mavic and other Shimano wheels with no problem over several years. I also had a google to see if there is more people with this issue and came to a BikeRadar forum where I guy had the same problem on a C24 DA wheel (basically the same rim, just a different hub) and his was replaced, as well as a person's commenting on the forum. So I find it reasonable to claim under warranty. [The forum - http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13064084] Please let me know your thoughts and opinions as I am trying to understand if I am reasonable or not. This is not to slander CWC at all, just to understand if I have a warranty claim that they aren't helping me with. Note: I have had great experiences with CWC in the past, hence my disappointment in how the matter is dealt with this time. I am just asking an opinion here, not trying to offend. Thanks [update - For those joining later. This was a to and from, ultimately a warranty claim and replacement done by CWC. They apologized to me and publicly here, so all is good in the world again.]
  12. Today Shimano proudly sets a new mountain biking benchmark, unveiling a genuine market-leading groupset for all enduro, cross-country and trail riders. Revealed for the first time at California´s Sea Otter cycling festival this evening, the new Shimano DEORE XT M8000 raises the bar of the industry´s original mountain bike component groupset to accommodate four distinct mountain biking styles and limitless riding adventures. Click here to view the article
  13. Just came across this and wondered if anyone has pulled the trigger on the One Up 50T rear sprocket and what they thought of it, what the best use would be and what an ideal trail front ring would be. I run a 30 front with a 40 (might be a 42) rear and that does find for most things. It just looks so weird and massive. Not sure if it's available locally. http://int.oneupcomponents.com/products/50t-shark-sprocket-18t-1x11 http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0573/2837/products/OneUp-Components-50T-Shark-Sprocket-Green-Front-Assembled-M700-Evil-Following-966_grande.jpeg?v=1458233146
  14. Sleek makeover and high performance from the best pound-for-pound competitive-level mountain biking cranksets, derailleurs, cassettes, shifters, levers, rotors and hubs on the market. Click here to view the article
  15. Hi Guys Im looking at possibly spending R10k on a wheelset for my road bike, depending on what the insurance pay out. It will be replacing my Mavic Ksyrium SSC SL wheels. Ill use the wheels everyday, training and racing. Ive do also have a set of 45mm carbon rims still waiting for hubs which will eventually be just for racing. I was thinking of getting a cheaper wheelset and the hubs with the change perhaps. Looking at getting Hope RS Mono hubs, DT 240s is slightly outa budget. The training/wheels need to be fit and forget type setup. Fulcrum racing 3 Mavic Ksyrium Elite Mavic Cosmic Campag Zonda American 420 Shimano RS81 HELP!
  16. Hi Guys, Can one replace and/or overhaul the bearings inside the Shimano XT M780 SPD pedals??
  17. Shimano Europe (Shimano) has today completed the purchase of Lazer Sport NV (Lazer), the Belgian helmet company. Click here to view the article
  18. Designed for enhancing the enjoyment and versatility of your mountain biking, PRO proudly showcases its first cable-integrated dropper post at this year’s Eurobike Show (Friedrichshafen, Germany, 31st August to 4th September). Click here to view the article
  19. I'm hoping there is some mechanics that can help me as this is driving me nuts! I'm trying to adjust my Shimano 105 11 speed FD but just can't seem to get it right. I have followed the Shimano instructions but no luck. Main issue is that when I'm in the big chain ring and 2nd gear from the top at the back the chain catches on the inside of the FD. (FD in top trim) When I correct this issue the chain catches the outside of the FD when I'm in big chain ring and smallest sprocket. (No trim) The other issue that I picked up is that if I use the cable routing through the adapter to the right of the fixing bolt I can get no leverage from my STI and shifting is almost impossible. I tried both positions offered by the adapter but it simply wont work. Hence I had to revert back the the traditional way of fixing the cable to the left of the fixing bolt and bypassing the adapter. It seems like I simply cannot get this setup. Maybe worth mentioning I've been setting my gears myself all my life, from Shimano 8 speed to Campy 10 speed - never had any issues.
  20. Hold on to your butts, the new Dura Ace 9100 groupset prices are out and it looks like i'm going to have to sell one or two body parts to get my hands on it: http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/product-news/pricing-revealed-new-shimano-dura-ace-groupset-273692 Its a weight saving I suppose http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/news/2016/06/29/dura-ace-r9100-op_zz_zz_zz_img1-1467198559854-1ng5i7fqj7758-960-540.jpg
  21. So I'm buying some new pads for my SLX M-675 brakes and there are a crazy amount of compatible options out there. Is there anyone who can decipher Shimano's brake pads coding? I am assuming it works as follows, correct me if I'm wrong: -The first letter obviously refers to type ie. G...=standard non-finned, F...=finned & J...=revised fin angle design? Are there any other types that would work with the M-675? -The middle numbers refer to pad compound ie. ...01...=resin, ...02...=revised resin, ...03...=metal & ...04...=revised metalic? Does anyone have insight as to what changes were made to the newer revised resin 02 compared to the original 01? I'm not so interested in the differences between resin and metal, as there is a ton of info out there. -The last letter refers to backing plate material ie. ...A=aluminium, ...S=steel, ...Ti=titanium & ...C=combination stainless steel base plate with aluminium fins? These obviously effect heat conductivity. So aluminium will allow heat to pass through realitively quickly thus a greater risk of boiling the brake fluid? Stainless steel and titanium will not allow heat to pass through very easily, thus heating up the rotor and a greater risk or brake fade?
  22. a Buddy of mine started cycling 2 or so months ago.. He bought a 2nd hand bike off the hub for R3k as he is "REALLY" tight on budget. and for the most part cycling is a cheap day to day sport. Until something breaks of course.. Does anyone know where we can get a second hand or refurbished Shimano 8 speed right hand shifter. He said he heard some rattles while riding and then it won't shift. Took it in to an expert who said some parts are missing and it cannot be repaired. So as I said, he cannot afford to buy a R4500 groupset if his bike only cost R3k. i know we are cheap skates but all the guy wants to do is ride his bike.. He has actually shown real good progress. Going from a 15km/h average over a 20km ride to 25km/h average over a 70km ride(with a broken shifter by the way) If anyone has an old Groupset or shifter they are willing to let go for cheapish. Please contact me.
  23. Hubbers, Any technical info on what are the main differences between the Shimano FC-M615 and FC-M625 cranksets (2x10)? I've tried the Shimano website, but differences are very vague. Cheers.
  24. The groupset is all black and looks like a carbon crank
  25. Hi Hubbers, I have been running my SRAM X0 (2X10) setup in the picture below. I've had a few setbacks and would like to move away from SRAM. Is it possible to retain the cranck in some way or form and purchace a XT1x11 groupset and marry the two without spending to much $? New xt crancks are expensive and there is not much wrong with the crank arms. Can anyone propose a product or two that I can use to retain the crank and run XT?
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