Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'sram'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General
    • The Bike Room
    • Sponsored
  • New to Cycling
    • Ask Anything
    • What Bike to Buy
  • Gear & Bikes
    • Technical Q&A
    • New Gear
    • Buyer’s Advice
    • Post Your Bike & Projects
    • Bike Shops & Services
    • Retro / Vintage Bikes
  • Events & Training
    • Events
    • Pro Cycling
    • Training, Health & Nutrition
  • Riding
    • Group Rides
    • Routes & Trails
    • Share Your Ride & Travels
  • Discipline-Specific
    • Gravity
    • Fixie & Singlespeed
    • Commuter
    • Multisport
  • Safety & Awareness
    • Stolen Bikes
    • Cycling Safety
    • Fraud Alert
    • Lost & Found
    • Good Causes
  • Help Desk
    • Site Announcements
    • Help & Support
  • Off Topic
    • Chit chat

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website URL


Location

  1. I hope it is not a stupid question but can I use Shimano chain rings on a Sram Crank, or are there generic rings for Sram cranks,
  2. Say hello to SRAM Guides. Spotted here on Velovert.com, it looks like SRAM are finally releasing a new brake to their lineup. Or are they ditching the old Elixir lineup altogether? Click here to view the article
  3. Anyone know if you can you get replacement 11t cassette cogs on their own, either SRAM or Shimano is fine and the price thereof. My chain slips on the 11t under power when in the small 26t ring up front , 2x10. I don't typically cross chain like that but every now and then in some situations I'll gear down onto the 11t and then I really need it and it slips, had a few sketchy situations. Tried a 11t from a spare new cassette and that solved the problem but now I need a spare 11t cog to replace it.
  4. After much internal debate and tooing and froing, I decided to replace my trusty Mojo SL-R with it's bastard child, the Mojo HDR 650b http://www.ibiscycle...s/mojo_hdr650b/ http://www.ibiscycles.com/images/uploads/bikeGallery/mojo_HDR130b-Ibis7219.jpg For those who are not familiar with the bike it is the follow up to the Mojo HD with some tech borrowed from the SL-R. It is lighter and stiffer than the HD, has better clearance for tyres, XX1 / X01 drivetrains and new gen piggyback shocks. Ordered the frame in Reverse Vitamin-P and in 650b mode. 650b mode? Frame can be run 130mm 650b 147mm 650b (using different limbo chips and custom tuned Mazocchi) 160mm 26" Went with the 130mm 650b as I already have what I need to run it 160mm 26". Will use my RockShox Monarch RC3. This way I have a killer Enduro / Trail / All Mountain slayer in one bike. Perfect. Build kit: Size:.........Large Fork:.........RockShox Pike 150mm RT3 Shock:......Fox (Stock) Wheelset:..AM Classic Wide Lightning Headset:....Cane Creek Handlebar: Spank Bearclaw Spike 30mm rise (cut to 740mm ) Stem:........Spank Oozy 65mm Brakes:......Hope Stealth Tech Evo with 183mm rotors Grips:........ODI Ruffian Drivetrain:..SRAM X01 with 32T chainring running GripShift Seatpost:..RockShox Stealth 125mm drop Saddle:.....SDG Circuit Tires:........Schwalbe Hans Dampf Trailstar 2.35 front and 2.25 Rear Pedals:.....Spank Spike Frame arrived 2/3 weeks early (nice problem to have) so there has been a bit of a mad scramble to get the kit together. Local agents either don't have stock of what I want or just plain downright do not carry the model I want. Have gone through Race Face, Loaded, Spank and a couple others, but in the end turned to good ol' faithful CRC for some of it. If all goes well the bike will be build next week. Till then I will post some kit pics. A guide to what happened in here (of sorts) Page 11 PlastiDip pics Page 24 Build Pics Page 27 Complete bike and post first ride pics
  5. An interesting read: Shimano’s Shifting Philosophy We were given a fresh explanation of Shimano’s drivetrain philosophy at the launch, which actually made sense. Shimano divides all available gear ratios into two groups: “Driving gears” and “Challenge gears.” Driving gears, in the case of a two-by or three-by transmission, are in the middle range of the cassette when the rider is in the big chainring. Challenge gears are for the steepest climbs, when the rider is forced to select the smaller chainrings and to use the larger three cogs of the cassette. In the case of a one-by drivetrain, Driving gears are the first eight cogs on the right-side of the cassette. Shimano professes that the smooth, 10-RPM jumps between shifts generated by its Rhythm Step, 11 by 40-tooth cassette, optimize the efficiency of the driving gears that we use most often for both climbing and pedaling on the flats. While the closer gear ratios of Shimano’s XTR cassette provide smaller steps between most of the gearing range, they cannot attain the higher top and bottom gears of SRAM’s XX1 10 by 42 cassette. To achieve a competitive spread, Shimano “strongly suggests” that XTR customers choose its two-chainring option. Before you whip out your calculators, the closest comparison that a Shimano XTR M9000 two-by drivetrain has to SRAM’s one-by is: Shimano 28 x 38-tooth chainrings, two-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 28/40 = 1.42:1 ratio. Highest gear 38/11 = 1:3.45 ratio. (22 gear selections) SRAM 30-tooth chainring, one-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 30/42 = 1.4:1 ratio. Highest gear 30/10 = 1:3 ratio. (11 gear selections) What the above chart demonstrates is how Shimano’s close-ratio two-by option provides a nearly identical gearing spread when compared to a SRAM XX1 one-by drivetrain. By switching to a 28-tooth chainring, the SRAM one-by drivetrain can also match Shimano’s 26 by 36 option, but Shimano also offers a third, 26 by 36 option for its two-by crankset that provides XTR customers a lower granny gear than SRAM can match (Shimano: Lowest gear 24/40 = 1.66:1 vs SRAM: Lowest gear 28/42 – 1.5:1). The bottom line is that Shimano’s choice for trail gearing is a two-by transmission, and it competes directly with SRAM’s one-by offerings. The customer’s choice is: “Do I want 22 shifts and a front derailleur, or do I want 11 shifts and no front derailleur?” What about Shimano’s One-By XTR Option? One-by customers can choose XTR chainrings between 30 and 36 teeth, but the narrower gearing spread of the 11 x 40, eleven-speed cassette means that riders may need to keep a couple of chainrings in their toolbox to match their gearing to the task at hand. Calculating out Shimano XTR’s lowest-available, 30-tooth-chainring option fetches a low gear of 1.33:1 and a high of 1: 2.73. Compare those figures with the options from SRAM and Shimano that we covered earlier in this segment, and they indicate that hills will be harder to climb, or you will probably be spun out on the flats. Shimano’s one-by gearing options are clearly intended for racers and stronger riders who will probably choose the biggest chainring that they can comfortably push and then suffer with whatever low gear is left when the big climbs arrive. What this says, and its from Shimano themselves, is that their "One-By XTR " option is not anywhere near what SRAM can offer. The 10 x 42 option with SRAM makes more sense vs 11 x 40 from Shimano....unless you like suffering!! this tells me that SRAM is the only option for a single chainring as their spread is better. Shimano still needs two up front or you buy extra Chain rings to swop out if the ride is challenging
  6. I am sure everyone has experienced it at one point, something that creeks. I believe my non drive side XO crank has a creek, I have changed the BB 3 times, changed pedals and nothing helps. I am 97KG and when I apply pressure to the non drive side crank at the 9-11 o'clock position it creek and OMG does it irritate me. I have stripped the crank clean and lubed and re built. The other thing It could be is that the crank tightens with a 8MM allen key, while I have a long key there is not much torch to be applied,maybe a good thing, how much torch or NM force should be applied, I don't have a torch wrench to test.
  7. Momsen AL829 comes out standard with a Sram XO Carbon 39/26 crank and chainring combination (2x10). The big chainring however is starting to show excessive wear and tear. It is now at such a level that the moment extra power is applied (as in hill climbs or sprinting) the chain will climb off onto granny (big spin but going nowhere). To the experts, please recommend a suitable replacement chainring that is a bit more hardy. I am even considering maybe going bigger (42-44).....maybe someting like a red anodized Race Face narrow-wide. Help asb die ou ballie........
  8. Have a Xx 2x 10, 26-39 set up up front and 11-36 rear my question is can i use Sram Xo rear casette as a replacement with 1091R chain plus use Xo chain rings i will like to eep the same gearing BTW I have always had Shimano set up so this Sram thing is rather new to me welcome input please
  9. An interesting read: Shimano’s Shifting Philosophy We were given a fresh explanation of Shimano’s drivetrain philosophy at the launch, which actually made sense. Shimano divides all available gear ratios into two groups: “Driving gears” and “Challenge gears.” Driving gears, in the case of a two-by or three-by transmission, are in the middle range of the cassette when the rider is in the big chainring. Challenge gears are for the steepest climbs, when the rider is forced to select the smaller chainrings and to use the larger three cogs of the cassette. In the case of a one-by drivetrain, Driving gears are the first eight cogs on the right-side of the cassette. Shimano professes that the smooth, 10-RPM jumps between shifts generated by its Rhythm Step, 11 by 40-tooth cassette, optimize the efficiency of the driving gears that we use most often for both climbing and pedaling on the flats. While the closer gear ratios of Shimano’s XTR cassette provide smaller steps between most of the gearing range, they cannot attain the higher top and bottom gears of SRAM’s XX1 10 by 42 cassette. To achieve a competitive spread, Shimano “strongly suggests” that XTR customers choose its two-chainring option. Before you whip out your calculators, the closest comparison that a Shimano XTR M9000 two-by drivetrain has to SRAM’s one-by is: Shimano 28 x 38-tooth chainrings, two-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 28/40 = 1.42:1 ratio. Highest gear 38/11 = 1:3.45 ratio. (22 gear selections) SRAM 30-tooth chainring, one-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 30/42 = 1.4:1 ratio. Highest gear 30/10 = 1:3 ratio. (11 gear selections) What the above chart demonstrates is how Shimano’s close-ratio two-by option provides a nearly identical gearing spread when compared to a SRAM XX1 one-by drivetrain. By switching to a 28-tooth chainring, the SRAM one-by drivetrain can also match Shimano’s 26 by 36 option, but Shimano also offers a third, 26 by 36 option for its two-by crankset that provides XTR customers a lower granny gear than SRAM can match (Shimano: Lowest gear 24/40 = 1.66:1 vs SRAM: Lowest gear 28/42 – 1.5:1). The bottom line is that Shimano’s choice for trail gearing is a two-by transmission, and it competes directly with SRAM’s one-by offerings. The customer’s choice is: “Do I want 22 shifts and a front derailleur, or do I want 11 shifts and no front derailleur?” What about Shimano’s One-By XTR Option? One-by customers can choose XTR chainrings between 30 and 36 teeth, but the narrower gearing spread of the 11 x 40, eleven-speed cassette means that riders may need to keep a couple of chainrings in their toolbox to match their gearing to the task at hand. Calculating out Shimano XTR’s lowest-available, 30-tooth-chainring option fetches a low gear of 1.33:1 and a high of 1: 2.73. Compare those figures with the options from SRAM and Shimano that we covered earlier in this segment, and they indicate that hills will be harder to climb, or you will probably be spun out on the flats. Shimano’s one-by gearing options are clearly intended for racers and stronger riders who will probably choose the biggest chainring that they can comfortably push and then suffer with whatever low gear is left when the big climbs arrive. What this says, and its from Shimano themselves, is that their "One-By XTR " option is not anywhere near what SRAM can offer. The 10 x 42 option with SRAM makes more sense vs 11 x 40 from Shimano....unless you like suffering!! this tells me that SRAM is the only option for a single chainring as their spread is better. Shimano still needs two up front or you buy extra Chain rings to swop out if the ride is challenging
  10. An interesting read: Shimano’s Shifting Philosophy We were given a fresh explanation of Shimano’s drivetrain philosophy at the launch, which actually made sense. Shimano divides all available gear ratios into two groups: “Driving gears” and “Challenge gears.” Driving gears, in the case of a two-by or three-by transmission, are in the middle range of the cassette when the rider is in the big chainring. Challenge gears are for the steepest climbs, when the rider is forced to select the smaller chainrings and to use the larger three cogs of the cassette. In the case of a one-by drivetrain, Driving gears are the first eight cogs on the right-side of the cassette. Shimano professes that the smooth, 10-RPM jumps between shifts generated by its Rhythm Step, 11 by 40-tooth cassette, optimize the efficiency of the driving gears that we use most often for both climbing and pedaling on the flats. While the closer gear ratios of Shimano’s XTR cassette provide smaller steps between most of the gearing range, they cannot attain the higher top and bottom gears of SRAM’s XX1 10 by 42 cassette. To achieve a competitive spread, Shimano “strongly suggests” that XTR customers choose its two-chainring option. Before you whip out your calculators, the closest comparison that a Shimano XTR M9000 two-by drivetrain has to SRAM’s one-by is: Shimano 28 x 38-tooth chainrings, two-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 28/40 = 1.42:1 ratio. Highest gear 38/11 = 1:3.45 ratio. (22 gear selections) SRAM 30-tooth chainring, one-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 30/42 = 1.4:1 ratio. Highest gear 30/10 = 1:3 ratio. (11 gear selections) What the above chart demonstrates is how Shimano’s close-ratio two-by option provides a nearly identical gearing spread when compared to a SRAM XX1 one-by drivetrain. By switching to a 28-tooth chainring, the SRAM one-by drivetrain can also match Shimano’s 26 by 36 option, but Shimano also offers a third, 26 by 36 option for its two-by crankset that provides XTR customers a lower granny gear than SRAM can match (Shimano: Lowest gear 24/40 = 1.66:1 vs SRAM: Lowest gear 28/42 – 1.5:1). The bottom line is that Shimano’s choice for trail gearing is a two-by transmission, and it competes directly with SRAM’s one-by offerings. The customer’s choice is: “Do I want 22 shifts and a front derailleur, or do I want 11 shifts and no front derailleur?” What about Shimano’s One-By XTR Option? One-by customers can choose XTR chainrings between 30 and 36 teeth, but the narrower gearing spread of the 11 x 40, eleven-speed cassette means that riders may need to keep a couple of chainrings in their toolbox to match their gearing to the task at hand. Calculating out Shimano XTR’s lowest-available, 30-tooth-chainring option fetches a low gear of 1.33:1 and a high of 1: 2.73. Compare those figures with the options from SRAM and Shimano that we covered earlier in this segment, and they indicate that hills will be harder to climb, or you will probably be spun out on the flats. Shimano’s one-by gearing options are clearly intended for racers and stronger riders who will probably choose the biggest chainring that they can comfortably push and then suffer with whatever low gear is left when the big climbs arrive. What this says, and its from Shimano themselves, is that their "One-By XTR " option is not anywhere near what SRAM can offer. The 10 x 42 option with SRAM makes more sense vs 11 x 40 from Shimano....unless you like suffering!! this tells me that SRAM is the only option for a single chainring as their spread is better. Shimano still needs two up front or you buy extra Chain rings to swop out if the ride is challenging
  11. Does anyone have experience with a Rockshox Poploc not releasing? Fork is a Rock Shox Reba 29 RL Air (2012 model). Here's the Motion Control unit model: http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/remote-upgrade-kit-poploc The fork doesn't unlock when pushing the Poploc button. The remote mechanism and cable both move freely. I also removed the Motion Control unit from the fork to check that it's spring was attached top & botton, and that the bottom aluminium disc/value was rotating freely. I testing the spring action without cable attached after reassembling the fork and the action feels correct. Any ideas why it doesn't release with the Poploc? Could the Motion Control unit's spring have weakened? I'm stumped.
  12. Couldn't find any other topis on this... apologies if there are... Looks like it will be WIRELESS too! (read the second link) http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/05/gallery/spotted-sram-electronic-drivetrain_327147 http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/analysis-sram-wireless-electronic-group-41023/ I'm a SRAM fan, so excited
  13. Hi all, After finishing the lights by linea race on sat I stripped my bike on Sunday and think I found the source of the click comic from my bike. As from the pics you can see snapped part of spider off. Question, what bb does the spez venge take? Can I buy a sram force crankset for Shimano geoupo?
  14. Just for interest sake - I was struggling to get rid of air in my rear breaks following the SRAM video guide for Juicy 3. I then downloaded the instructions and low and behold, the video has the steps the wrong way round and when I followed the manual method, the air was gone. So if anyone needs to do it the correct way, first read the manual and just refer to the SRAM video as a how to but not the sequence.
  15. Hi there I need some advice on the price i should ask for a bike of mine. Silverback Michigan carbon fibre, carbon fibre handlebar, cobalt blue rims tubless with original tyres, rock shox recon gold rl,hydrolic disks,shimano deore front and back xt with sram hub, less than 500km.
  16. I currently have Avid Elixir 1 brakes on my bike, 180 front 160 rear. If I want to change the brakes to Shimano SLX or XT, can I keep the rotors and just change the lever and calipers? How difficult is it? Will the Shimano brake levers fit easily with the Sram shifters? Its on a Trek Superfly DS
  17. EDIT: BIKE HAS BEEN FOUND! Thanks to all for the support. // Hi Hubbers, My bike was stolen from Afrikaburn a few days back and I would appreciate if you could keep an eye open for it. The frame should be the only one in the country as I imported it from Germany. All components are also imported personally by me so should be fairly unique. If you track it down please contact me via email: me@niclouw.com or call me on 0845509466. Thanks! Frame: Koga-MIYATA Gent’s Racer. Beige with stripes on the down tube. Saddle: Mid-‘80s Brooks brown leather. Handle Bar: Velo Orange Porteur, flipped and chopped with cork ends and grey bar tape. Basket: Wald chromed wire basket. Rims: unmarked Aluminium Aero. Front Hub: Fuji. Rear Hub: Sram Automatix 2 speed hub with coaster brake. Tyres: Kenda fat 35c
  18. Can anyone help. I am about to take delivery of a new{second Hand bike} from a mate, great deal, the problem is I have a 2 speed crank and the new bike will have a 3 speed crank, can one convert a 3 ring to 2 ring, secondly my current bike has the normal GXP screw in BB , the new bike has a press fit bearing type BB
  19. EDIT: BIKE HAS BEEN FOUND! Thanks to all for the support. // Hi All, My Koga Miyata was stolen from Afrikaburn this week. The frame should be the only one in the country as I imported it from Germany. All components are also imported personally by me so should be fairly unique. Frame: Koga-MIYATA Gent’s Racer. Pearl Beige with stripes on the down tube. Saddle: Mid-‘80s Brooks brown leather. Handle Bar: Velo Orange Porteur, flipped and chopped with cork ends and grey bar tape. Basket: Wald chromed wire basket. Rims: Unmarked Aluminium Aero. Front Hub: Fuji. Rear Hub: Sram Automatix 2 speed hub with coaster brake. Tyres: Kenda fat 35c If you track it down please grab it and contact me via email: me@niclouw.com or call me on 0845509466.
  20. At the moment, it's just a replacement freehub body for their Tesla Evo hubs, but it bodes well for the rest of their lineup! I can't wait for the Switch and Trizoid hubs to get the same treatment! http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=51&products_id=928
  21. Hi all You have probably seen the news articel in the Cape Argus today about the mugging on Sunday morning. My stolen bike is a Scott Addict R3, Zipp 303 non dimple wheels, FSA carbon crank, SRAM red, FIZIK saddle, Thompson seat post, Ritchie Handle bar, etc. Would reaaly appreciate some feedback. I am offering a reward to the recovery of the bike. Please help. Abbas 0827861902
  22. Im looking to get myself a late xmas gift .I sold the old Momsen and im looking for a new one. I had a look around and found 2 bikes i like.The Momsen AL629 and the X-AL (yes I'm one of the big guys) . Would probably replace the Crest on al 629 with Arch. Any experiences good or bad, any advice or just your personal opinion on these two bikes. MOMSEN AL629 Sizes X-Large Frame Race Tech 2, Alloy 6061 Butted Tubeset Fork FOX Float 29 CTD, 100mm Travel Chainwheel Shimano M615, 38/24 Bottom Bracket Shimano External F. Derailleur Shimano SLX R. Derailleur Shimano XT 10 Speed Shifter Shimano Deore Trigger Brake Levers Shimano M615 Hydraulic Brakes 180 Fr /160 Rr Cassette Shimano SLX, 11-36T Rims No Tubes ZTR CREST, 32H Tires Kenda Slant Six, Folding Bead, 29 x 2.0 Pedals Shimano M505 Clipless Handlebar Ritchey COMP 2x , 720mm, 31.8mm Oversize Stem Ritchey COMP 2x , 720mm, 31.8mm Oversize Seatpost Ritchey COMP 2 Bolt, 27.2 Seat Selle Royal Seta S1 Custom Headset Alloy Taper Integrated Colors Fast Black w/ Gold Details Chain KMC 10 Speed Hubset Shimano SLX Centerlock, 32h Spokes Stainless Butted with Alloy Nipples Grips Kraton Race Weight 11.65 kg ( Medium, Excl Pedals Momsen X-AL Sizes X-Large Frame Race Tech SLA -Alloy 7000 Butted Tubeset - Internal Routing -Formed Tubing - PressFit BB - 142 x 12 Thru-Axle Rear Fork RockShox SID RL 15mm Thru-Axle - 100mm Chainwheel SRAM X9 44/32/22T Bottom Bracket SRAM GXP PressFit F. Derailleur SRAM X9 R. Derailleur SRAM X9 Type 2 10 Speed Shifter SRAM X9 Ball Bearing Trigger Brake Levers Avid Elixir 7 Carbon Brakes 170 Fr /160 Rr Cassette SRAM PG1070 - 11-36T Rims Sun Ringle Inferno 27 - 32H Tires Schwalbe Racing Ralph SNAKESKIN Tubeless 29 x 2.25 Pedals Nil Handlebar Alloy Flat Top 29er - 680mm - 31.8mm Oversize Stem Alloy 3D Forged Superlight - 31.8mm Oversize Seatpost Alloy 3D Forged 31.6 Seat Fizik GOBI XM Headset FSA No 42 Alloy Taper Colors Matte Black w/Red Details Chain KMC 10 Speed Hubset SRAM X9 15mm Fr - SRAM X9 142 x 12 Rr - 32h Spokes Stainless Butted with Alloy Nipples Grips Weight Silicone Race 11.73kg ( X-Large, without pedals Thanks
  23. I am moving to a MTB with a press fit bearing, I believe it is the BB95 on a Trek Superfly. I like to be in control and do my own repairs, but have always had screw in BBs, anyone with experience changing these BBs for a Trek Superfly with Sram cranks
  24. Hi Would like some feedback on SRAM pressfit bb 30 - as fitted standard on my spez stumpjumper comp ht. What I would like to know is how reliable/ tough is this bb? And why would the bearings seize? There are (2) sealed bearings in there, so even if it did take in water, surely the bearings would be ok? The one bearing completely seized on a brand new bike after a grand total of approx. 400km of casual weekend and holiday rides... Tx
  25. Hi there, I need some help regarding the freehub body for the SRAM MTH-306 rear hub (http://www.sram.com/...ts/sram-306-hub). I want to replace JUST the freehub body but it seems wherever I ask people say I need to get it WITH the rearhub as well, thus the whole wheel has to be rebuilt etc. Surely I can just obtain JUST the freehub body itself? If so, any specific place? Any help/advice most welcome.
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout