Search the Community

So i do have a question on front suspension travel , i currently have a 100mm manitou markhor on a size XL titan racing drone frame , bike is one size to big for me as i should ride a size large , i have a lyne amp bar (760mm with 12mm rise ) and a lyne amp stem (60mm) (31.8mm clamp dia) If i want to change the travel on my fork shoul i get a negative stem and a flat bar for the same feeling or should i just leave it on a 100mm , or will be messing up the geometry of the bike? Note that i do race competitive xco But 100mm on a hardtail is not enought for my weight (78kg)

Hi all So I have recently bought myself a fork with a touch of stanchion wear but great condition other than that. Now I am just wondering what do you guys do in general to prevent further wear from here on out. For now I plan on replacing the dust seals and doing an overall service just for peace of mind but don't know what else I can do to prevent it from wearing down even more. Is there a specific brand of dust seal that can help with this? What are some good dust seals/ service kits you guys would recommend for a rockshox sid/reba? This is a bit of a question on the side, but what causes stanchion wear exactly? My other fork (fox) I've had for over 4 years that I used on a daily basis (commuting and mountain biking) but it never picked up stanchion wear. But I am just curious as to what does cause the wear, is it just dust seals' material that gets harder over time and causes more wear because you don't service the fork, fork oil that lube the seals that runs out? Thank you all!

Hi all! I have had my Manitou Markhor 100mm fork for about 2years now. Serviced the fork at my LBS after 2000km on it. They just cleaned everything out and put new oil in. I have noticed some play on the dustseals. Is that normal or would that need to be replaced? Headset bearings feel fine and front caliper and wheel is tightened. Also not the brake pads. Have any of you had the same problem? What would the fix be?Forks came on my Merida Big Nine 500 2019

The last update to RockShox’s Pike, Revelation, Lyrik, and Yari forks was just a change to the C1 air spring with a new foot nut and seal head. I believe this was done as a response to complaints from users that their forks were sagging into the travel and so had less travel than advertised. A 160 mm fork might have been sitting at about 155 mm at rest, for example. RockShox has touted the revision as providing a higher ride height and no wasted travel or dead space. However, suspension specialists (such as Chris Porter and Vorsprung) have pointed out that the C1 seal head creates a smaller negative air chamber, resulting in a less supple start to the travel and less small-bump sensitivity. Their recommendation seems to be to stick to the B1/B2 seal head and enjoy the better grip and sensitivity at the top of the stroke, and stop obsessing over the travel markings on the stanchions. Based on my understanding of how the system works, it’s the longer foot nut of the C1 version that extends the fork out so it has more travel and is riding higher. It is equivalent to fitting a slightly longer air shaft. I can only hypothesise that the seal head was revised in order to reduce the negative air volume so that the fork cannot be extended deep into the negative travel to the extent that insufficient stanchion and bushing overlap become an issue. Is anyone able to confirm this, or correct me, please? If I am right, does that mean that one could use the longer C1 foot nut to get the higher ride height, but combine it with the B1/B2 seal head for the large negative chamber, provided that the fork is not already at the maximum travel for that model? So with a 160 mm air shaft in a Lyrik and a 140 mm air shaft in a Pike this should be fine, and would give the advertised travel but also the superior performance of the larger negative air chamber? Any clarifications, corrections, or references to further reading or explanations are appreciated!

Take a trip back to the early days of full-suspension mountain bikes with "Full Travel", a documentary from GT Bicycles which tells the story of their suspension development. Click here to view the article

Hi, I am looking for a dual suspension bike, a lot of what is on the site are older than 5 years. How sure am I that the shocks (suspension) is decent and don't need to be replaced once i buy. Is there a way to know or test the shocks? How long would a shock actually last before needing to be replaced?

Im graduating from roadie to mtb after 30 years, but have never kept up with the techno side, so ive been looking, what is the ,if any, major diffirance in handling / feel between a mtb fitted with a vertical mount shock, or a horizontal one. .? Just an interesting point, in the 80's motorbikes went from 2 vertical mounts to one horizontal, it really smoothed the ride, no pogo bouncing.

I’m working on a Rock Shox Recon (120 mm RL Silver 29" non-boost). The lockout wasn’t having any effect, so I’ve opened up the damper to investigate. It looks to me like the base plate orientation is wrong, so that in the open position it is covering the fluid ports, and in the closed / locked position one of the fluid ports is partly exposed. Here is the base plate with the top adjuster in the open position: Here is the top adjuster in the open position (ie fully anti-clockwise) that positions the base plate as shown above: Here is the base plate with the top adjuster in the closed / locked position: Here is the top adjuster in the closed / locked position (ie fully clockwise) that positions the base plate as shown above: If I try rotating the base plate 180° and then locating it on the adjuster shaft, it sits at a slight angle, partly raising it from the yellow plate: So that won’t work, as the fluid will be able to flow freely in any position. As far as I can tell, the only way to solve this and get the base plate oriented correctly relative to the top adjuster would be to rotate it where it’s fitted into the black shaft locator in the bottom assembly: But I’m not sure how it’s fixed in there – is it threaded, glued, or pressed? Is there any way to safely remove or rotate it without breaking something? Or any other thoughts or suggestions?

Hi Guys, I am looking at buying a Schwinn Rocket ltd Dual Air suspension. Anyone got some experience with these? Regards, Stehan

Was looking at various things last night and came across dual rate springs in motorcycling and wondered why these aren't available in MTB more. I can see that maybe a lot of the progression in the rear can be built into the frame with the leverage ratio / characteristics of the linkage design. I wondered what the reasons were that these aren't an option for those who what the small bump, no stiction benefits of the coil but have a bit of linear frame. With Cane Creek and others pumping coil forks and the coil upgrades that are being released Is this something we might see more towards the fork part than on rear shocks. @Droo??

I have a 29" X-large new Scott 940 with dual lock out. When I am riding on tar or on my rollers and I engage full lock out, the bike starts to bounce, with every pedal stroke. I have tried to adjust the rebound either way but am not having much success. Anyone have an idea what causes this?

Unfortunately I get to see the worst of the worst! What is the worst you have ever seen. Thought I would share a couple of photos to illustrate the effect of not servicing your equipment on a regular basis! All that dirt, grit, grime and fine dust creates a very fantastic sanding paper effect!

Hi guys This is a bit of a silly but I am tempted to just go ahead with the experiment anyway. Has anyone here ever fitter for example a 26inch wheel to a 29er fork? Curious to know what the outcome is and if it makes such a huge difference. Regards

Steve Bowman, Fox South Africa brand manager, takes us through a basic fork service. In this video, Steve shows us the process of removing the lower legs, cleaning and checking the fork, and how to reassemble the fork. Click here to view the article

Any one got any good ideas on how to make a remote lockout lever for my dt swiss rearshock. A new remote seems to be around r800 which is pure madness if you ask me

A mountain bike suspension fork requires regular care. Steve Bowman has two simple tips to keep your fork sliding smoothly. Click here to view the article

A mountain bike suspension fork needs regular cleaning and servicing to continue operating optimally without causing damage. If done correctly, your fork should last the life time of the bike. Here's a guide on when you should be servicing your fork and what signs of wear to look out for. Click here to view the article

I'd like to share with you all the simple installation of the : MRP Ramp Control Cartridge https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_/gear/previews/first-look-friday-scott-spark-volvo-bike-rack-mrp-ramp-control-cartridge-r5683 Designed for: Current-gen Rock Shox Pike, Lyrik, Yari, and Boxxer World Cup forks (Solo-Air models only) Adds speed-sensitive ending-stroke control and bottom-out force adjustability to compatible Rock Shox forks.Just 55 g! Lighter than most air-spring assemblies with more than two tokens.Isolate and tune bottom-out with minimal changes to initial and mid-stroke.Bring your tuning to the trail and out of the workshop!Easy installation requires little time and few tools - no lower-leg removal required! Compatibility:Ramp Control Cartridge Model A ...will fit 2013 and newer Pike forks with 15x100 axle spacing and 2010 and newer Boxxer World Cup (air-sprung) forks. Ramp Control Cartridge Model B ...will fit 2015 and newer Pike forks with "Boost" 15x110 axle spacing, and all 2015 and newer Lyrik and Yari forks (regardless of axle spacing). CUSTOM TUNE ON THE TRAIL Inarguably, convenience is one of the biggest benefits of the Ramp Control cartridge versus internally-accessed volume adjustment components. Internally-accessed spacers aren’t friendly to on-trail experimentation and tuning - requiring bulky tools and a clean environment to utilize. With Ramp Control, experimentation is so simple it’s encouraged! The powerful range of Ramp Control is harnessed through a simple 16-position knob with clearly defined detents. That enables you to arrive at your base setting in just one ride on a familiar trail, whereas internally-accessed spacers would necessitate a trial and error approach - several rides followed by garage or shop sessions - to get to the same point. A BETTER WAY TO TUNE The volume adjustment spacers used by competing brands change the shape of the air-spring’s curve throughout the entire travel range, regardless of velocity. Aside from the slight change resulting from the volume of the cartridge itself, the Ramp Control upgrade effects only the ending stoke spring curve - as its damping effect is velocity-dependent. This portion of the curve represents intense, sharp hits and big events, like landing a sizable drop or plowing through a rock garden. Without Ramp Control, your fork’s behavior in these circumstances has been compromised by your desired feel elsewhere in the stroke. With Ramp Control, you can tune the general feel of your fork through its air-pressure and damper settings, and isolate big-hit performance and bottom-out with the Ramp Control adjustment. NO MORE COMPROMISES, TUNE TO THE TRAIL AT HAND Unless you ride just one trail, the air-spring volume you’ve so carefully tuned with internally-accessed volume spacers is probably not ideal for all your adventures. A trip to the bike park might reveal, for example, that more support would be welcomed when the features and drops get bigger and trails get steeper than those found on your local go-to. If you have extra spacers and the necessary tools on hand, and don’t mind burning time that could otherwise be spent riding the lift-accessed terrain you just paid for, you could get the needed support. Or, in just seconds, you could add more Ramp Control and keep the good times going. Whether it’s a new-school flow trail or near vertical DH course, Ramp Control gives you immediate control of the terrain at hand - of particular benefit to time-crunched enduro fans tasked with practicing and racing multiple, varying stages. "With Ramp Control, initial and mid-stroke feel is largely unaffected by your level of adjustment - unlike tuning with volume spacers. It enables you to isolate and greatly control required bottom-out force, and experiment with damper and air-pressure settings to achieve your desired performance in the rest of the stroke." Feel free to contact me for info Happy Trails

http://static1.1.sqspcdn.com/static/f/254967/6039102/1267972574970/ritchey_mountain_bike-number-1_02.jpg This frame design is old.

Announced in April this year, the 32 Step-Cast (SC) fork is the lightest cross-country fork Fox has produced starting at around 1,355 grams. Designed and optimized for 100 mm travel from the outset, the 32 SC has some unique features. Click here to view the article

Six of the bicycle industry’s main suspension manufacturers announced today that, beginning with model year 2017 bicycles, consumers will see several new shock lengths and fitment options. Click here to view the article

Banned cyclist to collect huge damages payout by Agency Staff, February 02 2016, 06:00 Agency Staff February 02 2016, 06:00MADRID — The Spanish government has been ordered to pay more than €720,000 in damages to former cyclist Roberto Heras for his reversed suspension for doping in 2006-08. Spain’s national court in Madrid said in its decision that the amount of €724,904.86 corresponded to what Heras could have earned during his two-year suspension. After testing positive for the banned hormone EPO in September 2005 after the Vuelta a Espana, Heras had his victory in the race stripped and was banned for two years by the Spanish cycling federation, causing him to retire. The ban was subsequently overturned in the Spanish courts in 2012 due to irregularities in the screening of his urine test. Judge Berta Santillan Pedrosa ruled the Spanish government was responsible for the error and liable to compensate Herras. Lawyers for the state have until next Monday to lodge an appeal. The cyclist and his company, which manages his image rights, lodged their case against the state in January last year, claiming more than €1m in compensation to offset losses caused by the sanction. The decision is another legal setback in the fight against doping in Spain, which has often been accused of being soft on drugs in sport. AFP http://www.bdlive.co.za/sport/othersport/2016/02/02/banned-cyclist-to-collect-huge-damages-payout

Hi, I'm new to mountain biking and recently bought myself a Giant Trance 4 27.5" Large frame bike to get into it. After a few rides I started wondering about upgrading my suspension to get longer strokes to do more aggressive downhill rides. I also wonders about upgrading my wheels, from the 27.5" to 29". The Trance 4 has a "linkage driven single pivot" rear suspension setup (see attached photo), and this prevents me from putting on larger rims and longer rear suspension. Does anyone have any experience with replacing or upgrading a linkage driven single pivot setup to accommodate larger rims and longer rear suspension? If such a conversion is possible, where do I get the parts? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

So I've been wanting to give my forks a bit of a service but don't want to pay ridiculous amounts for an oil and seal change. I know the youtubes are a goldmine of information but I'm a bit nervous il have my fork in pieces and not know how to put it all back together. Surely there's someone doing a workshop sometime? I think JB used to do them but obviously he's not around anymore.

After having my bike stand for let's just say a very long time due to some recovery issues after shoulder surgery and a bad case of laziness, I decided to dust it off in December and take it away on holiday. A quick service revealed nothing untoward but a few loops around the resort we stayed at highlighted some suspension issues one of which was very kindly sorted by Droo from Stoke Suspension in the form of a rear shock service The other issue that I noticed was this thing called sticktion at the start of my fork's stroke... I thought it was as a result of standing so I tipped the bike onto it's head overnight and hoped and prayed that some oil would somehow creep in and resolve all my issues... Alas it was not to be... This weekend I decided that a baptism of fire was in order and off came the fork (Marzocchi 44 Bomber TST2 120mm travel). With a little help from Google, Marzocchi and Pinkbike within a reasonable amount of time it was stripped on my workbench and the inspection began. As there was no oil leaks and the fork was holding air, it resulted in an inspection and oil service. Castrol Fork Oil was used (10W) as there was no 7,5W available and I figured thicker rather that thinner (5W) would be better. A change to 5W isn't a train smash should that be required I removed the dust wipers, re-soaked the felt wipers in oil, checked the bushings (Good as new thankfully) and checked inside the lower legs for damage. All good. After a thorough clean assembly ensued with a little light grease inside the lowers (Everything works better with lube...) a bit more grease on the bushings as well as the oil seals and the wipers. I lubed up the stanchions and reassembled the fork (Lube everywhere that there was any chance of any contact. There was more lube on that fork than what was present in any Ron Jeremy movie ever made and probably all of them combined!!) After reassembly, to my horror..... sticktion at the start of the stroke..... I was hoping that with the slightest of pressure the stanchions would slide. It takes a bit of pressure and they release and start to slide. My question is, what is considered acceptable?