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I purchased a brand new Scott 17 Addict 20 Dec 2020, after riding the bike for around three weeks a spoke broke in the rear wheel Scotts response a spoke braking so soon is possible a "material fault on the spoke" New spoke fitted . Three rides later the rim in the same rear wheel started to split around the spokes. Scott fitted a new rim. Two rids later with the new rim fitted another broken spoke. I am now waiting for Scott to fit new wheels. By the time I get the new wheels fitted the bike has spent 5 weeks in my garage collect dust. I am very frustrated spending a lot of money on a new bike and it is problem after problem I am looking for help please Has anybody else experienced these type of problems on a new bike? What can I do do to overcome these problems ?

Hello fellow Hubbers, This thread serves as the official DT Swiss forum/tech Q&A for the African cycling community. As the official importer and distributor of DT Swiss in Africa, we at Get Stoked Distribution do our best to try keep track of any queries related to DT products on Bike Hub and answer them as swiftly and comprehensively as possible. This being said, we feel it's much easier for many of you that there is a dedicated space where you can directly ask your questions or offer your thoughts. You can find all our DT Swiss aftermarket products and many service products available to end consumers on our online portal: Get Stoked Online We kindly ask you to respect the views of other hubbers and to try to keep your questions on topic - we are a community sharing the love of cycling after all... Thanks, and looking forward to being of service to the DT Swiss community! The Get Stoked team

So I have a set of each and I want to keep one and sell the other. I wanted to get a few opinions on what to keep and what to sell. I appreciate your opinions. Mavics have the alloy brake track.

Hi hubbers! I’m currently running 27.5 3.0 inch tyres on my Stumpy. Instead of swapping out to 29er wheels I’m looking at slapping some 2.8 Maxxis DHF tyres on it. But my only concern is that the BB height will drop by putting smaller tyres on. Can someone please advice me on if the smaller tyre size will drop the BB significantly? Would it be possible to put some 2.6 inch tyres on? Thanks everyone!

Hi guys, just putting a feeler out there. I have a set of Royal Traverse SL 38 rims (6fattie rims) that I’m thinking of selling. They are in fantastic condition and barely ridden. Only less than 10 rides on them so far. They currently retail new for R25k https://rovalcomponents.com/collections/trail/products/2019-traverse-sl-38 How much do you guys think they are worth second hand? Thanks!

I’ve got a set of American Classic MTB Carbonators wheels where I would like to covert the rear wheel to boost. It is at the moment QR. Is it still possible to get the kit, or what can I do to make the wheels work with a Momsen Trail 2018 frameset.

It's time to top up my tyre sealant and I'm wondering what the best sealant is for South African conditions? I've read online that Orange Sealant is great (although I've never seen it in SA stores) and apparently Stan's is crap. I've had some success previously with Enduro Seal. What's your experience and what do you use?

Hi there hubbers, quick question, can any rim be used with a boost hub? thinking of building a custom wheelset by purchasing the components separately and having a pro wheelbuilder put it all together. upgrading a 2017 spark 940. thanks all

I just thought I'd share an experience with you. I build a bunch of wheels and also do repairs and rebuilds. A customer brought a wheel for repair - he was breaking nipples. The rim is not branded and is laced to a Hope hub. On inspection I found that the rim was deforming and cracking at a few nipple holes. Upon even closer inspection, I found the spoke threads exposed, indicating that the spokes used in the original build are too short by a few mm. As the spokes were too short, the heads of the nipples were not properly supported and were popping off. I measured the spoke tensions and they were all over the place, some tensions way too high, and some very low. I had to decline to rebuild the wheel as I'm afraid the rebuild process, releasing all tension and then adding tension to the rim again will cause it to fail. I'm interested in your thoughts.

I'm looking to get rid of some road wheels a friend gave me a while back before immigrating. Anybody know roughly what these are worth on the hub? I ride mtb so don't have much of a clue re road stuff. Including Gatorskin tyres. Ritchey aero road OCR rims? Ritchey ZER system rear hub and Ritchey front hub. Thanks!

Hi folks, planning to convert one of rear road wheels into a disc wheel. Avoiding the hefty price tag that comes with, there are disc cover options I'm exploring. Option 1 is do a full diy, which is quite a bit cheaper (just using a certain grade plastic). Option 2 is getting a custom cut/fit disc cover, like these guys in the US ($100, or R1,200). http://www.wheelbuilder.com/aero-disc-covers.html Does anyone know of any local people that do the above? And what it might cost? Thanks. Brad

Hi all, I need some advice please... I have just purchased a Trek Top Fuel 9.9 that came with a 120mm fork on so I have made arrangements to swap it for a 100mm boost fork (Original Spec). The guy swapping with me has been nice enough to offer me a boost hub as well. I now am stuck in making a decision as to what to do about a front wheel. The hub is a Lyne 28 hole boost front hub. My main focus is xc/marathon racing and I will train on the bike every weekend. I have looked at the Lyne Wheelsets but unfortunately you have to purchase that as a full wheelset so that is pointless considering I already have a Hope4 boost hub laced to a Rapide on the rear. My next thought was to build a wheel with the Lyne hub and a Rapide rim but unfortunately they don't look like they come in a 28 hole version. So that brought me here... What rim should I be looking at? or what are my options? My end goal will be to build a wheelset with Carbon hoops laced to Hope 4 boost hubs but unfortunately my bank account turns down this option for me at the moment. Any help/advice will be gladly appreciated

Rapidé TR27-27 Trail Racer Wheelset 650b I was looking for a new wheelset for my bike and came across the Rapidé website, I saw the wheels posted a few times on Bikehub. I could not find out much about them other than what was on the website. So after a lot of questions to them on their web chat, I decided to go for it and buy a set. Firstly I need to make it clear that I am in no way receiving any benefits from Rapidé whatsoever and I bought the wheels at their marketed prices, nor do I have any vested interest with them. This review is completely independent. That out the way, Wayne advised me that the best set for my bike would be the 27mm internal rims as I also purchased the Maxis Minion DHF & DHR from them. Payment was made and within a short time I had the courier knocking on my door with my new wheels all neatly boxed up. First impressions Out the box they were solid and very well built, rim tape and valves included. The rims are solid and have a deep bead to grip the tyres. The hubs are their own branded version of the Novatec D791SB/D792SB hubs with their spec of bearings etc. Novatec hubs have been around for ages and are well known. Nice solid little workhorses. They also come in thru axle and QR so will fit any non boost bike. (Rapidé also have a boost hub available) Fitting So rim tape and valves already fitted, all that was needed was to fit the tyres and throw in some sealant. The tyres fit very snug and the beading grips them very well. They went on well with a quick blast on the compressor and a loud pop. No issues whatsoever. The free hub was a perfect fit for the Shimano SLX 11 sp cassette and for the SRAM people there is a compatible free hub for you too. These guys really have thought of everything. Wheels fitted (Pyga Pascoe 140 650b), I headed off to my favourite trails at Karkloof. It is important to note that I am a very average rider who tends to crash his way through things than float over the top. In other words, I’m hard on my wheels. Now for those of you who ride at Karkloof you will know the trails I’m mentioning are relatively technical and pretty tough on wheels and tyres alike. On the Trails The first trail was The Batchelor which was part of last year’s Enduro stage. With my crash through riding and poor line selection, a few drop offs and rock gardens and a jump line later, I survived and the wheels performed well. Nice and stiff and a feeling of control through my chaos. Next up was Sid Vicious, an appropriately named trail. This trail is just one long rock garden from top to bottom. It has challenging lines and a great place to rip a tyre and buckle a rim. Again the wheels just did their job without any hassles. This is a wheelset review, but oh my how well the Maxis Minions performed. Because of the deep bead on the rims, I was able to run the tyres at 1.5bar through this trail with no burps or issues. The last torture trail was the recently opened Puff Adder Pass. This is one tough trail with very little time to get any momentum, its pedal all the way up, down, up and through one rock garden after the next. Again a flawless performance from the wheels. I also spent my December leave riding most of the other trails at Karkloof the wheels held up well, rolled smoothly and always engaged when required. All in all I must say, for the price point vs quality and functionality, you won’t find too many better deals on the market. As you can see from the bike I ride weight is not an issue when you ride technical trails and have all your fun downhill. I would recommend these wheels if you are like me who does not have deep pockets but loves to ride. It would be good to see future reviews on these wheels from other riders who have them. To see the specs check out their website www.rapide.co.za. The fast and friendly service is an absolute pleasure work with.

Hi Guys So let me start off with this, I have a HUGE thing for wheels, I can't go through a day looking at new wheels for my bike, Even though I bought some new ones about 2 months ago. I generally buy wheels for the look. Nothing like a wheel with some nice Big decals and a loud sound if you freewheel. So my question to you. Why do you buy new wheels?

Hi Hubbers Dont miss out on our Monday Madness deals today! 1.American Classic Argent Road Tubeless Wheelset - RRP R10 995 now only R7 495!! Link is here: https://www.evobikes.co.za/american-classic-argent-road-tubeless-wheelset.html

Looking for 11 Speed Clincher disc to rent/borrow and if i like i might buy it.wanting the disc for this coming weekend. good price

Any expert wheel builders out there that have an opinion on whether an asymmetric rim will work on the rear of a Scalpel Si? I am mainly wondering if the spoke tension will be symmetric on both sides of the rear wheel. I've had various mixed answers from bike shops. Some say it depends very much on the hub and flange distance, which I am having trouble understanding.

So as the title suggests am looking for some new boost wheels that will be light enough to pedal over distance but resilient enough to hand a few rock gardens and general trail riding. Weight and how they roll is as much a factor as I like to do distance as well as short fun stuff. The bike is boost which is another consideration. Actual boost hub's or the axle kit AC offer to make hub's boost compatible. Would rather not have boost but unfortunately the bike I wanted is. I can't see there is any perceivable difference between actual boost hub's and the axle conversion. Although some argue it's pointless having a boost bike and then just adjusting the spacing. I know in the real world I can't feel the difference . Have already ridden the bike with loan wheels that are boost hub's vs my wheels which are spaced . I will only be running 2.2 -2.3 rears and 2.3- 2.4 fronts if that has any bearing on my decision as the ac's are wide proper wide. Anyone who has ridden or owned either or both your input would be appreciated. As would anyone who wants to pass on some advice . Am leaning towards the smokin guns,what a freakin cool name . Oh and on a mid travel 9r Have put this out there instead of hassling MM ????????

As a distributor I have recently been getting calls more and more for disk brake off-road road wheelsets. It seems roadies are no longer content to stay on the lovely smooth road (ok its SA, so smooth road with the occasional pothole) but are keen to explore the back roads and dirt roads. This "go anywhere" style of riding is becoming the norm in Europe and at our recent distributor meeting in Annecy it is quite evident that most of the roadies are kitted out to get off the beaten path (including the Mavic road segment manager who was riding 35c tyres!!) - orange bike in photo Interestingly Mavics neutral service bikes (like Chris Froome rode in last years Tour de France) are kitted with 28c tyres standard. (the yellow bike in the centre) As it is the time of year where i need to commit to 2018 stock, it would be interesting to get some feedback from the roadies who want to get dirty, but not dirty enough to buy a MTB, specifically what are you looking for in your off-road-road wheels, high end?,lightweight?,durable? etc feel free to post some photos of your road/offroad machines too, I'm interested to see what you are all riding if anyone wants to contact me directly you can get me on gavins@dragons.co.za Regards Mavic

Hi Hubbers I recently had my wheels trued by my LBS and was pretty dismayed as I subsequently needed to do the job myself as they weren't trued properly at all, a waste of my time and money. Generally I do things myself because then I have the peace of mind that the job has been done properly. However, I am not a professional mechanic and would like my set of downhill wheels tensioned optimally as I can feel some spokes are not at the ideal tension. My wheels are in great condition but I am considering running V-brakes so they need to be true. With this in mind, I ask for your advice as to where in Cape Town I should go, I would appreciate any feedback. At this stage I am considering Andrew at Stoke Suspension Works or Kevin at BMC, however I would like to hear your opinions on the matter. Any feedback will be appreciated, I am situated in Claremont, Cape Town, and am looking for a mechanic in the vicinity. I also have a feeling Bike Mob may be a safe bet, but I've never dealt with them. Thank you in advance

Hi guys This is a bit of a silly but I am tempted to just go ahead with the experiment anyway. Has anyone here ever fitter for example a 26inch wheel to a 29er fork? Curious to know what the outcome is and if it makes such a huge difference. Regards

My son started BMXing and we need to replace the rear hub and rebuild the wheel , I please need pointers into the right direction on where to buy/source affordable parts , tried the internet/online stores however the cost of a single hub is more than the bike cost us new , don't mind used parts that can be serviced and used as we will buy a new bike within 6 months , cannot wait to get my son rolling again soon !!

I'm currently riding a Scott Spark 930 and I've upgraded it to a XT 1x11 and I have a XT stages power meter on it. I really enjoy the ride and I'm considering a new set of wheels (American Classic Wide) or "maybe" carbon South Industries. The issues comes in when you start looking at the numbers to upgrade VS buying new. My core challenge I have with "upgrading" the wheels and perhaps other bits and pieces, brakes (from deore --> XT), is whether or not the "platform" as in the frame is worth it to upgrade on. Considering costs, I'm looking at the following: - Wheels 8-20k - XT brakes 3k - Misc (handlebar, stem etc) - R3k - And we haven't discussed possible DI2 / 2x11 config. - And and we haven't looked at the front fork. So the upgrade costs (ex DI2) puts me in the R15k - R20k range to spend. Considering the bike is 18months old, I feel I could get R25k for it second hand, putting me in the R50k range to purchase new. I'm a touch undecided on the path forward. Any cool ideas or tips would be appreciate. Cheerio

So, after much back and forth I settled into all but one component of my new wheel build. RIMS: CSIXX XCM 29er, 28h. Why: Wide but not too wide (26mm ID). Reasonable weight (430gr) for the width and thick and strong 3.5mm side walls. Knowing where they are from they will be well designed. And the maker is living nearby should something go wrong. With 30x30mm a stiff yet balanced cross-section. 3mm spokebed asymmetry for evening out spoke stress ratio. HUBS: AM Classic 28h. Why: Lightest hubs for a reasonable price (225gr + 130gr). Reliable, I put 7000km on a previous pair without a hitch. Strong free hub mechanics that are also easy to service. Off the shelf bearings, easy to service as well. Before it is commented on I am not bothered by the engagement. My second choice DT240 would have been the same without the expensive ratchet upgrade. At first I was a bit put off by what seemed to be a waste of hub flange width by the rather large gap between the NDS flange and the rotor lugs. The total flange to flange width that defines the ultimate wheel stiffness is 50mm. But looking at it more carefully I found that the loss of width is only between 2mm and 4mm compared to major other brands. Hope Pro4 has 52mm. DT has 53.9mm (3.8% less or 7.2% less). But the center-to-right and center-to-left offset is more balanced than with the other brands so the spoke tension is more equal. Adding the 3mm spokebed asymmetry of the rim the spoke tension ratio of the front wheel will be 93% and for the rear wheel 105% (greater spoke angle on the drive side, surprise!). That is pretty good and should ease the wheel build. And for both wheels the spokes are the same length for the DS and NDS. SPOKES: That is the remaining question. I already made the call to go for 28 instead of 32 spokes because of the stiff rim needing less support. Now the choice is between standard DB1.8/2.0 or bladed spokes rolled from DB1.5/2.0. I know the answer of every conservative wheelbuilder will be DB1.8/2.0 (after frowning dis-approvingly at the 28h). However CSIXX is building their own wheelsets with 28x DB1.5/2.0 spokes. 1.8/2.0 available on request. The wheelsets are not marketed around their weight. So in some way CSIXX must feel confident that this 28xDB1.5/2.0 is delivering a wheel build up to their standard. Contrary to that, as mentioned above, many wheelsbuilders strongly recommend against anything other 32x 1.8/2.0. Reliability issues are mentioned first, overall strength and stiffness second. Yesterday however I had the pleasure to 'touch' a 28x CXRay (effectively 1.5/2.0) ENVE/CKing wheel on a Scalpel. That wheel was stiffer than my already fantastic 32x 1.8/2.0 AC Wide lighting. So I would happily settle for that. So my spoke choices are right now: Standard DB1.8/2.0 or the Alpina DB1.5 offered by Rapide (similar to CXRay but cheaper). Obviously Brass nipples. Purpose of wheel: Cape Town style trail riding, mainly Tygerberg/Jonkers/TM. Local XCM races. Upcoming EPIC (so yes, reliability is important). I am 78kg. Bike is a full-sus RM Element. So I am interested not just in the standard recommendation to go for the bigger spoke for reliability, but some insight into the mechanical reasons behind and the actual real-life issues that might come up with the light bladed spoke in context with the stiff rims and the balanced spoke tension of the rim/hub setup. Does somebody has a DB1.5/2.0 MTB wheel and is happy/unhappy with it? Fire away

Building a bicycle wheel can be a tricky task and is often a job left up to a professional but there are a number of knowledgeable home mechanics up to the job. For those looking to service their wheels at home or on the move, the Super B TB-PF25 provides a compact solution at a reasonable price. Click here to view the article