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Wyatt Earp

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Oh yes, I also shoot at iso 100 always, f16 for maximum depth of field and the shutter will relate to that, usually ends up being quite slow, hence tripod

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Not a picture of mine, but a tribute to photographers that are willing to go to absolutely any length to get that perfect shot [emoji106]

I wanted to see what he was taking a photo of, so used the photo in google search and found this story... http://petapixel.com/2013/07/13/photographer-gets-so-close-to-lava-that-his-shoes-and-tripod-catch-on-fire/

 

His interview about the shot... http://ongoingpro.com/photographer-goes-through-fire-to-get-the-shot/'> http://ongoingpro.com/photographer-goes-through-fire-to-get-the-shot/

 

Turns out he posed for the photo, and the flames were started by an accelerant, rather than spontaneous combustion, although he admited the lava was genuinely hot.

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I would bet it's the lens. When viewing through the camera viewfinder the image you see is with the lens wide open. This is to make the image as bright as possible. It has certain drawbacks like not allowing you to review depth of field but there is a method to deal with that.

 

When you make the exposure a number of things happen. The mirror moves out of the way making the viewfinder black. The lens shuts down to the aperture selected for the exposure and the shutter opens. Other things take place on the sensor level that we will ignore for now since they are not relevant to my theory.

 

When lenses get old or take a bump or suffer some kind of mechanical damage it is fairly common for the blades of the iris that determine the aperture to not close properly to the selected aperture or to close too slowly and be still in motion when the shutter opens and the exposure is made. This results in an over exposed frame. It is frequently intermittent and or variable as friction is a common cause and that can be affected by many different things.

 

 

Anyway that's the theory. Best way to test it is to use another lens or if you don't have one choose a correct exposure with the lens wide open and a high shutter speed to give correct exposure. This will mean the lens is not required to shut down as the aperture selected is the same as the wide open viewing aperture. If the problem goes away with these tests then you know it's the lens.

 

Lenses can often be repaired. If the problem doesn't go away come back here as there are a few other things you can try.

Boy oh boy oh boy. Is my face RED.

 

I have been snapping away for a while now trying to get the same results as with the problem exposures. Just to refresh memories, pictures would be fine and then a sequence of shots would be overexposed. Well today I was trying again to replicate the problem, noticed that a photo I had just taken looked overexposed and did some basic investigating. I found the selector had been moved to "M" from aperture priority. A simple explanation for the overexposure. 

So from there I looked a the properties of all the overexposed photos I had and sure enough, all had been taken with Manual exposure with the same settings for shutter speed and aperture as the previous shots, meaning overexposure. It appears that something I do while moving around - must be a big nose or just carelessness - move the selector. So it seems there are no problems with the equipment but is rather, as we in IT call it, a "picnic".

Thanks all for your help and suggestions and glad to say I can now devote funds to a new lens rather than replacing mine.

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The 2 million dollar lens .

 

http://shutyouraperture.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/leica-apo-telyt-r-1600mm-right-460x307.jpg

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The 2 million dollar lens .

 

http://shutyouraperture.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/leica-apo-telyt-r-1600mm-right-460x307.jpg

 

Can I use an adapter to fit it to my Micro Four Thirds camera?  :ph34r:

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Proof that if you are 16 years old  and you can play the guitar, the sun actually does shine there!

Two things that are compulsory in a boys tool box

 

Guitar and surf board

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