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Standard MTB axle vs bolt through


Soggy

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I dont know if this topic has been covered yet, if so please point me to the thread.

 

Can a standard wheel that uses a quick release be converted to use a bolt through axle or will I have to buy a special wheel for it? Reason being I am busy building up a mtb and might want to get a DH fork for more aggressive riding and routes. I think I will need that extra shock absorption, and it also look friggin cool as well.

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Sorry, new hub and new fork. Marzocchi did offer replacement stanchions for some of their models but that was a long time ago. You do get a Hope hub (or DMR Revolver) that was convertable from QR to Thru Axle.

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Depends on your hubs..... HOPE hubs can be converted for sure.....chech on Chainreactioncycles if they offer any alternative conversion kits

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Sorry, new hub and new fork. Marzocchi did offer replacement stanchions for some of their models but that was a long time ago. You do get a Hope hub (or DMR Revolver) that was convertable from QR to Thru Axle.

 

Kewl thanks. So a good idea would be to pickup a good new/used wheelset, and depending on the fork I buy I would have to re-hub and re-spoke.

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I dont know if this topic has been covered yet, if so please point me to the thread.

 

Can a standard wheel that uses a quick release be converted to use a bolt through axle or will I have to buy a special wheel for it? Reason being I am busy building up a mtb and might want to get a DH fork for more aggressive riding and routes. I think I will need that extra shock absorption, and it also look friggin cool as well.

 

Depends on what hub you have on the wheel at the moment.

Some can convert eg Hope, Chris King, Industry 9, DT Swiss(I think)

 

If it is a Shimano hub then no, not really. I have made converters in order to do this but it is not ideal.

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the basic answer is yes...

 

but it's dependant. Guessing that you're talking specifically about the front wheel, then yes... some can be converted between QR and 20mm thru axle and visa-versa. This usually depends on the bearings used. If they're sealed/cartridge type, the hub manufacturer will usually have a conversion kit.

 

I have Nuke Proof hubs one one bike, and Hope Pro II's on the other. Both front wheels can convert bewteen 20mm and QR.

 

Hubs that use a cup-&-cone system (like shimano hubs), don't have this feature.

 

Now for the rear wheels. I know the new Hope Pro II Evo's run larger bearings so that the rear can go from QR to 12mm thru axle. One has to watch the spacing though. Most DH frames run a 150mm rear spacing (as opposed to the 135mm standard).

 

As for 15mm thru axle front and 142mm thru axle rear... I have no personal experience with these sizes, and they're not common on DH bikes anyway.

 

So... this bike you're building... what frame are you basing it on? If it's not designed for 200mm travel at the front you will change the head angle drastically, over stress the head tube (which could fail), and may end up with a pretty unridable geometry.

 

Just a heads up ;)

Edited by patches
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A "standard" wheel no but some wheelsets can have the internals refitted and swap between QR and thru axle.

 

American Classic are changeable. Anyone know any others?

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Thanks very much for the replies. The frame is based on a standard dual suspension setup. So I guess it will be best to stick with a standard fork that would offer about 150mm travel for the most. I guess I wouldnt want to do any drops on that frame that would cause a 150mm to bottom out, I guess that would be pushing it.

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Thanks very much for the replies. The frame is based on a standard dual suspension setup. So I guess it will be best to stick with a standard fork that would offer about 150mm travel for the most. I guess I wouldnt want to do any drops on that frame that would cause a 150mm to bottom out, I guess that would be pushing it.

 

150mm is plenty! DH bikes use 200mm more for absorbing bumps (like rock gardens) than soaking up on big drops. Sure it helps, but even on a rigid bike, with the correct technique, a rider can drop some crazy stuff.

 

I'd say that if you're keen on drops and more the gravity route... geometry is more important than just massive travel.

 

But don't take my word for it ;) ...check out what Chris Akrigg does on a bike with 130mm front 100mm rear travel.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdOlkadn4E4

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what bike is this.

 

150mm is plenty travel for a lot of things...

 

the bike in the vid is a mongoose nugget. It's a slopestyle bike.

 

So yeah, same travel in front as a trail bike(130mm). Same at the rear as a XC bike (100mm)... but it's the geometry that makes the difference!

Edited by patches
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the bike in the vid is a mongoose nugget. It's a slopestyle bike.

 

So yeah, same travel in front as a trail bike(130mm). Same at the rear as a XC bike (100mm)... but it's the geometry that makes the difference!

 

haha was meaning the OP. Just think he has the wrong impression on what shocks are capable of and the intricasies of frame geo etc....

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Just remember that if you transport your bike on your roof or a bike rack that utilises quick releases, you will also have to modify those, or else you won't make it to your first race on time.. Early in the morning is a k@k time to realise that you forgot about that....

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Just remember that if you transport your bike on your roof or a bike rack that utilises quick releases, you will also have to modify those, or else you won't make it to your first race on time.. Early in the morning is a k@k time to realise that you forgot about that....

 

LOL!! Cool, thanks man. Still a long way to go for my mountie, but gonna get there.

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