dillon Posted December 8, 2020 Share Derailleur cage touching?nope, I spin the cassette on the wheel off the bike and it touches the spokes, jimmied a plastic spacer and it solved it , but now I need a longer lock ring. Not happy with plastic either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomberman Posted December 17, 2020 Share Hi Hubbers, might be stupid question. How will I know what offset chainring to use, Im getting this grinding sound from my crank ( normally in the Power stroke) so I have a feeling it could be a chain line issue. Edited December 17, 2020 by Bomberman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted December 17, 2020 Share Hi Hubbers, might be stupid question. How will I know what offset chainring to use, Im getting this grinding sound from my crank ( normally in the Power stroke) so I have a feeling it could be a chain line issue.Boost spacing = 3mm or 0mm offset (usually 3mm)142x12 or 135x10 = 6mm offset Edited December 17, 2020 by Jewbacca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomberman Posted December 17, 2020 Share Boost spacing = 3mm or 0mm offset (usually 3mm)142x12 or 135x10 = 6mm offsetThank man, Im currently on a 0mm, will try the 3mm. set up is a 148x12 (Boost) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomberman Posted December 17, 2020 Share Boost spacing = 3mm or 0mm offset (usually 3mm)142x12 or 135x10 = 6mm offsetWill any narrow wide 3mm chainring work? Jewbacca 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted December 17, 2020 Share Will any narrow wide 3mm chainring work?You will obviously need to match the attachment setup... So SRAM gxp vs SRAM bb30 vs Race Face cinch etc... But any 3mm offset chainring that fits your crank set and frame will work Bomberman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomberman Posted December 18, 2020 Share You will obviously need to match the attachment setup... So SRAM gxp vs SRAM bb30 vs Race Face cinch etc... But any 3mm offset chainring that fits your crank set and frame will workAgain thank for the advice, been running bolt on all my life so this is something new for me. Have a race face cinch so this should be fine? https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/chainrings/441169/wolftooth-cinch-oval-34t-boost-chainring Edited December 18, 2020 by Bomberman Jewbacca 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted December 18, 2020 Share Again thank for the advice, been running bolt on all my life so this is something new for me. Have a race face cinch so this should be fine? https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/chainrings/441169/wolftooth-cinch-oval-34t-boost-chainringJust check your spindle size matches the set up. But I think it should work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomberman Posted December 28, 2020 Share Just check your spindle size matches the set up. But I think it should workThanks Jewbacca. All sorted seems it was the chainring, switched to a 3mm off set and the sound is gone. Edited December 28, 2020 by Bomberman Jewbacca 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cycle Fan Posted December 28, 2020 Share Hey Hubbers - looking for some advice.... This is my current setup:SRAM GX 12sp Cassette & Rear DR, Sram Gold chain, NX Crank with 32t 94bcd chainring (all were new and put on at same time) Bikeshop said I should look at replacing chain soon so I bought a new GX chain and fitted it myself. According to chain check tool, hadn't reached 0.75 wear yet (i know 0.5 is best for 12speed chains). Since replacing (2 rides old) - there is a grinding noise in the larger gears (2-3 top gears) when chain is under tension (so short sharp climbs). Nothing much in lower gears. I have tried the following:- checked that I fitted chain correctly (through DR and also that masterlink is facing right direction)- degreased and lubed chain- even checked my BB as the cup on the drive side looked like it had moved out a bit Only option now is to replace the chainring (which I really don't want to have to do) - any suggestions before I go that route? Does the chain need to "bed in at all"? TIA Bomberman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomberman Posted December 28, 2020 Share Hey Hubbers - looking for some advice.... This is my current setup:SRAM GX 12sp Cassette & Rear DR, Sram Gold chain, NX Crank with 32t 94bcd chainring (all were new and put on at same time) Bikeshop said I should look at replacing chain soon so I bought a new GX chain and fitted it myself. According to chain check tool, hadn't reached 0.75 wear yet (i know 0.5 is best for 12speed chains). Since replacing (2 rides old) - there is a grinding noise in the larger gears (2-3 top gears) when chain is under tension (so short sharp climbs). Nothing much in lower gears. I have tried the following:- checked that I fitted chain correctly (through DR and also that masterlink is facing right direction)- degreased and lubed chain- even checked my BB as the cup on the drive side looked like it had moved out a bit Only option now is to replace the chainring (which I really don't want to have to do) - any suggestions before I go that route? Does the chain need to "bed in at all"? TIAHave you redone your indexing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DR ◣◢ Posted December 28, 2020 Share Hey Hubbers - looking for some advice.... This is my current setup:SRAM GX 12sp Cassette & Rear DR, Sram Gold chain, NX Crank with 32t 94bcd chainring (all were new and put on at same time) Bikeshop said I should look at replacing chain soon so I bought a new GX chain and fitted it myself. According to chain check tool, hadn't reached 0.75 wear yet (i know 0.5 is best for 12speed chains). Since replacing (2 rides old) - there is a grinding noise in the larger gears (2-3 top gears) when chain is under tension (so short sharp climbs). Nothing much in lower gears. I have tried the following:- checked that I fitted chain correctly (through DR and also that masterlink is facing right direction)- degreased and lubed chain- even checked my BB as the cup on the drive side looked like it had moved out a bit Only option now is to replace the chainring (which I really don't want to have to do) - any suggestions before I go that route? Does the chain need to "bed in at all"? TIASame problem on my end. New chain done at 0.5 and i’m getting the grinding. It is a little better after 3 rides but still noticeable under power. New chainring on the way. Not impressed with the quality of the one i have now since it only lasted 1000km. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted December 28, 2020 Share Also check the B screw setting .... Seems, and sounds, correct on the workshop stand. When under full load the suspension movement seems to close those tolerences... Cycle Fan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cycle Fan Posted December 28, 2020 Share Have you redone your indexing?Not yet - will give that a go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cycle Fan Posted December 28, 2020 Share eish - really trying to avoid this. Chainring is about 800km oldSame problem on my end. New chain done at 0.5 and i’m getting the grinding. It is a little better after 3 rides but still noticeable under power.New chainring on the way. Not impressed with the quality of the one i have now since it only lasted 1000km. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikeisLife Posted December 28, 2020 Share Hey Hubbers - looking for some advice.... This is my current setup:SRAM GX 12sp Cassette & Rear DR, Sram Gold chain, NX Crank with 32t 94bcd chainring (all were new and put on at same time) Bikeshop said I should look at replacing chain soon so I bought a new GX chain and fitted it myself. According to chain check tool, hadn't reached 0.75 wear yet (i know 0.5 is best for 12speed chains). Since replacing (2 rides old) - there is a grinding noise in the larger gears (2-3 top gears) when chain is under tension (so short sharp climbs). Nothing much in lower gears. I have tried the following:- checked that I fitted chain correctly (through DR and also that masterlink is facing right direction)- degreased and lubed chain- even checked my BB as the cup on the drive side looked like it had moved out a bit Only option now is to replace the chainring (which I really don't want to have to do) - any suggestions before I go that route? Does the chain need to "bed in at all"? TIASounds like a worn chainring... DieselnDust 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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