Jump to content

How to build a MonsterCross Bike 101


Eldron

Recommended Posts

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Juin-Tech-R1-Hybrid-Hydraulic-Road-Disc-Brake-Set-Post-160mm-Road-Gravel-CX/202431744308?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=502460531595&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

I have these on 2 bikes. They are awesome. Light, brake really well and will very cheaply transfer across bikes as cable length doesn't matter as it's not hydraulic.

 

They are honestly really really good.

 

Wow. Those look interesting. Red ones might look good on my monster cross attempt:

 

Silverback Vida1 frame

Java fork (I was thinking of going with a lower axle to crown length, but this is what I have)

Stans Crest 29er wheels with Maxxis Rambler 40c tyres

Rapide stem and gravel bar

Sram Red 10speed shifter/brake levers

XT crank with 42 chainring (doesn't look like I'll be able to get a 44 to clear the chainstay)

Sram X9 RD

Sram 11-36 cassette

Tektro brake calipers (better than the Zoom calipers I tried first, going to see if the Hope calipers I have work any better)

 

I also played with a Sunrace 11-46 cassette and a derailleur hanger extender, but found that I didn't need that gearing for the terrain I'll ride this bike on.

 

I was going to use Shimano spare parts I have lying around, but found out that Sram mtb and road stuff plays nicer together than Shimano mtb and road stuff.

 

Struggling with rotor rub. And I can't seem to get the brake cable pull just right - either too much rub or I hit the bars with the levers and the brakes still don't engage fully.

 

Chain keeps dropping off the front chainring when I change down at the back - going to try using a front derailleur as a chain guide and eventually try a 1x 42 chainring (not ramped/pinned) - there has to be a way to make it work properly.

 

And need to strip it at some stage to spray the frame and fork matte black with gloss black 'monstercross' decals I think.

 

edit: I am also still playing with the chain line - I moved the double spacers for the BB to the non-drive side and the single spacer on the drive side and put Rapide chainring bolt spacers between the spider and the chainring.

post-2133-0-54027400-1574167100_thumb.jpeg

post-2133-0-30545400-1574167108_thumb.jpeg

Edited by ridr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 667
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Built a few over the years:

 

Bridgestone MB3 with 700c Conversion

Momsen STR 1x10 

 

But my favorite is this one which I currently ride;  its a bit like an old Landy Defender (without the oil leak)

 

1992 Trek 830 CroMo Frame found in a dumpster at local LBS

Arbitrary steel fork from another bike shop

Race Face Prodigy 34T

XTR Brakes with Travel Agents to work with STI

XTR Wheel set

105 9 sp STI

LX RD

Vredestein T/L

Rapide Frontier 440 bars

Rapide Saddle

 

Genuine go anywhere ability and a great touring bike.  

 

Aha! Maybe I need the Travel Agent to get my brake setup working properly (Sram Red levers with mechanical disc brake rotors)! Where do you get them?

 

going to look around...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MO2ZC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&Apr14=Apr14&tag=justprofit-20

Edited by ridr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aha! Maybe I need the Travel Agent to get my brake setup working properly (Sram Red levers with mechanical disc brake rotors)! Where do you get them?

 

going to look around...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MO2ZC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&Apr14=Apr14&tag=justprofit-20

Those travelators used to come from Cape Cycle Systems, who are also the SRAM importers. Call them and see if they still keep them. They wont sell to you directly, but can direct you to a dealer that can help you.

 

They were popular on Tandem Racers with XTR 'V' brakes. An STI without them is spongy and lacks modulation.

 

Also tricky things to set up properly, especially the rear brake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those travelators used to come from Cape Cycle Systems, who are also the SRAM importers. Call them and see if they still keep them. They wont sell to you directly, but can direct you to a dealer that can help you.

 

They were popular on Tandem Racers with XTR 'V' brakes. An STI without them is spongy and lacks modulation.

 

Also tricky things to set up properly, especially the rear brake.

 

Thanks. Learning as I go - probably easier to try find some road type short-pull mechanical calipers at a good price.

 

These things never go quite according to plan - thought I could use up some of my mtb spare parts lying around. Will have a nice charity box of stuff to give away soon that I haven't ended up using.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Built a few over the years:

 

Bridgestone MB3 with 700c Conversion

Momsen STR 1x10

 

But my favorite is this one which I currently ride; its a bit like an old Landy Defender (without the oil leak)

 

1992 Trek 830 CroMo Frame found in a dumpster at local LBS

Arbitrary steel fork from another bike shop

Race Face Prodigy 34T

XTR Brakes with Travel Agents to work with STI

XTR Wheel set

105 9 sp STI

LX RD

Vredestein T/L

Rapide Frontier 440 bars

Rapide Saddle

 

Genuine go anywhere ability and a great touring bike.

I love this bike!

Edited by ichnusa
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also really like that bike. Need to build me something along those lines.

I like my Fuji cx1 frame, but tyre clearance is limited.

Really would like to be able to run bigger tyres than the 38x700c currently on.

The fork has enough space but I am limited at the rear.

The gravel roads I ride are generally very corrugated and mtbike tyres really do much better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. Learning as I go - probably easier to try find some road type short-pull mechanical calipers at a good price.

 

These things never go quite according to plan - thought I could use up some of my mtb spare parts lying around. Will have a nice charity box of stuff to give away soon that I haven't ended up using.

I had one off a tandem I raced a while back and it was quite a mission finding another. Linden Cycles hooked me up with the other but make sure you get the one with the hole that the cable goes through the wheel the newer one doesn't work

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Don't know what to call this built of mine, except a hybrid( nicknamed Okkie, is okkie 'n Mtb nie, okkie 'n padfiets nie)  :D

Built up from items I had already, only newly purchased items is the bars, chain, cassette, chainring, derailer and tires (althought I got gifted them, but new/never used)

 

Frame is my old Alu 29'er HT Haibike frame.

Fork: Rigid Mosso M5 alu.

Wheels: Shimano spec entry level.

Tyres: Donnely X'Plor 40x700c Gravel bike tires

Shimano 105 STi's (10 spd)

9spd Altus rear Derailer (might have to change to a clutch type derailer in future)

Rapide 36t NW chainring on Sram Mtb cranks.

11-32T 10spd cassette

Brakes: Tektro Novela mechanical

160mm Rotors front and back

Saddle: Fizik Mtb that I colored black with leather shoe dye.

Bars: Rapide Gravel Bars with Rapide bar tape.

Paint: Rattle can matt black over gloss black decals.

 

post-87-0-46909100-1578568068_thumb.jpg

post-87-0-28084100-1578568088_thumb.jpg

 

Done a few 100km on it already, and it is very comfy. Never taken onto trails as yet, but it was not built to tackle trails. Handles gravel roads quite well, but lots of chainslap (hence the necessity to procure a 9spd clutch derailer)

Still quite fast on the tar, managed to stick with my training group up Helshoogte, so the ratio is quite good. Does spin like a hamster at speeds over 45km/h, but again, not built for those kinda speeds.

Using it for commuting, and it fits the role perfectly.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't know what to call this built of mine, except a hybrid( nicknamed Okkie, is okkie 'n Mtb nie, okkie 'n padfiets nie) :D

Built up from items I had already, only newly purchased items is the bars, chain, cassette, chainring, derailer and tires (althought I got gifted them, but new/never used)

 

Frame is my old Alu 29'er HT Haibike frame.

Fork: Rigid Mosso M5 alu.

Wheels: Shimano spec entry level.

Tyres: Donnely X'Plor 40x700c Gravel bike tires

Shimano 105 STi's (10 spd)

9spd Altus rear Derailer (might have to change to a clutch type derailer in future)

Rapide 36t NW chainring on Sram Mtb cranks.

11-32T 10spd cassette

Brakes: Tektro Novela mechanical

160mm Rotors front and back

Saddle: Fizik Mtb that I colored black with leather shoe dye.

Bars: Rapide Gravel Bars with Rapide bar tape.

Paint: Rattle can matt black over gloss black decals.

 

attachicon.gifgravelbike1.jpg

attachicon.gifgravelbike2.jpg

 

Done a few 100km on it already, and it is very comfy. Never taken onto trails as yet, but it was not built to tackle trails. Handles gravel roads quite well, but lots of chainslap (hence the necessity to procure a 9spd clutch derailer)

Still quite fast on the tar, managed to stick with my training group up Helshoogte, so the ratio is quite good. Does spin like a hamster at speeds over 45km/h, but again, not built for those kinda speeds.

Using it for commuting, and it fits the role perfectly.

Looks pretty good to me ... I've come to the realization that gravel bikes are just that, intended to ride reasonably good gravel roads and jeep track. It's not a mountain bike even though yes I know it can go anywhere!

 

Sadly as far as I'm aware there are no 9sp clutch derailleurs so you may be stuck with the chain slap ... I have just got used to it I guess

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks pretty good to me ... I've come to the realization that gravel bikes are just that, intended to ride reasonably good gravel roads and jeep track. It's not a mountain bike even though yes I know it can go anywhere!

 

Sadly as far as I'm aware there are no 9sp clutch derailleurs so you may be stuck with the chain slap ... I have just got used to it I guess

Microshift does a 9speed clutch derailleur

 

https://everydaymtb.com/microshift-announces-a-new-9-speed-system-with-clutch/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My monstercross - just had it done on Dec 2019. Still undecided if I should change the shock to a rigid? Also still using my old SRAM XO 2x10 Cassette & Chainring (only replaced shifters & derailleur with Shimano Tiagra for now) - not sure which cassette & chainring to go to yet?

post-20794-0-30836000-1578637738_thumb.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow. Those look interesting. Red ones might look good on my monster cross attempt:

 

Silverback Vida1 frame

Java fork (I was thinking of going with a lower axle to crown length, but this is what I have)

Stans Crest 29er wheels with Maxxis Rambler 40c tyres

Rapide stem and gravel bar

Sram Red 10speed shifter/brake levers

XT crank with 42 chainring (doesn't look like I'll be able to get a 44 to clear the chainstay)

Sram X9 RD

Sram 11-36 cassette

Tektro brake calipers (better than the Zoom calipers I tried first, going to see if the Hope calipers I have work any better)

 

I also played with a Sunrace 11-46 cassette and a derailleur hanger extender, but found that I didn't need that gearing for the terrain I'll ride this bike on.

 

I was going to use Shimano spare parts I have lying around, but found out that Sram mtb and road stuff plays nicer together than Shimano mtb and road stuff.

 

Struggling with rotor rub. And I can't seem to get the brake cable pull just right - either too much rub or I hit the bars with the levers and the brakes still don't engage fully.

 

Chain keeps dropping off the front chainring when I change down at the back - going to try using a front derailleur as a chain guide and eventually try a 1x 42 chainring (not ramped/pinned) - there has to be a way to make it work properly.

 

And need to strip it at some stage to spray the frame and fork matte black with gloss black 'monstercross' decals I think.

 

edit: I am also still playing with the chain line - I moved the double spacers for the BB to the non-drive side and the single spacer on the drive side and put Rapide chainring bolt spacers between the spider and the chainring.

Finally have working brakes and gears after I changed the brake calipers and chainring.

 

ZENO Speed Clip Dual Piston Mechanical Disc Brake Set -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HT4Z5P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(short vs long pull - this is the best explanation I could find - https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20809/what-is-the-actual-cable-pull-of-brake-levers)

 

42 tooth 1x chainring (also got a 44) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYNWYM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Had to move the BB spacers around again to get enough clearance for the chainring teeth on the drive side.

 

Sprayed it with some spray-paint I still had lying around just to get a basic idea - still need to strip it again and spray it completely.

post-2133-0-67755500-1578646129_thumb.jpeg

post-2133-0-28930200-1578647158_thumb.jpeg

Edited by ridr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Thinking about a tandem Monstercross gravel bike ...

 

The donor bike is available and most of the parts ... Just scheming about running the mechanical discs, it does have 200mm rotors front and back.

 

As usual quick and nasty so with what I've got hence the normal old style 10sp STI's, 26" wheels with MTB tyres (need some comfort), mechanical discs, 29" rigid fork. Might mess up the geometry but it's a tandem (26") does it matter?

 

Will start putting the bits together during this week .... Pics to follow

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NSBB...taking it up to 11!!!

 

 

Thinking about a tandem Monstercross gravel bike ...

 

The donor bike is available and most of the parts ... Just scheming about running the mechanical discs, it does have 200mm rotors front and back.

 

As usual quick and nasty so with what I've got hence the normal old style 10sp STI's, 26" wheels with MTB tyres (need some comfort), mechanical discs, 29" rigid fork. Might mess up the geometry but it's a tandem (26") does it matter?

 

Will start putting the bits together during this week .... Pics to follow

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout