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Your Enduro ride


Robodog

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On the set up topic I have had an interesting two weeks. My steel HT's Pike blew its damper after a fun loop from home to Rondebosch via Kirstenbosch.  So I rode my Enduro on the green belts. It felt awful. I had just spent a lot of time on my HT and the big bike felt like I was riding a water bed in comparison.  Back on  the repaired HT at Tokai I had the opposite experience. The bike felt too hard everywhere.

 

Some changes were needed to both bikes. The Enduro got a 10 psi shock pressure increase and some more air in the rear tyre. The HT got the fork air pressure reduced and the tyres made a tad softer. The changes made a huge difference to both bikes, especially the Enduro which suddenly pedaled way better even with the shock fully open and with fewer pedal strikes. The HT was back to being a little less uncomfortable than it had been. 

 

All this made me realise how important set up is, from a long travel bike to a HT. The issues arose because of laziness. Dont be lazy.

 

So which is faster. My last two rides on the same trail with different bikes were won by the HT on several Strava  DH segments. On mellower trails the HT can hold its own easily and can be faster. Tokai and properly rough tracks are a different story...

 

Interesting, I think too many people set and forget. Me included.

 

BTW all the above just shouts "1st world problems"................

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Interesting, I think too many people set and forget. Me included.

 

BTW all the above just shouts "1st world problems"................

Yup  - we should all be riding postman's bikes with rod brakes while lions chase us around. 

Edited by Headshot
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Some good advice here. Longer travel bikes are definitely very different to jump on steeper jumps especially. A hard tail is more predictable. With the FS, as the bike compresses through the apex of the jump it starts rebounding as you drive towards the lip, this is why your rear rebound should be slower than your front. The front wheel then leaves the lip while the rear is still busy rebounding, which can also "buck" the rider. Is that the right term? Call it nosedive...

 

I'm getting very technical here.  But the most important is to just go ride, practice makes perfect. Having said that, Body positioning / weight centering is one of the most important aspects when it comes to jumping. Make sure you're balanced & centered over your bars and you are not pedaling right up to the lip. A natural reflex action when hitting a jump when you're scared or unsure is to lean back. On a HT it will send you nose high into a dead sailor which you might land or might loop out of on the landing, but on the FS that rebound of the rear wheel will pop you straight over the bars since all your weight is on the back wheel. and your body weight will override whatever the bike does because its 10x more. 

 

Sorry to get technical here, I just went through the same thing learning to jump a FS after I use to DJ on a jump bike for many years.

fairl appropriate vid to go along with the discussion

 

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  • 1 month later...
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And you'll wait a very long time without wheels if anything goes wrong

Yes, I know.

Just getting a XD freewheel body out of the importer proves to be a futile excersise.

It is the worst most non-existent service I have ever seen. :cursing:

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  • 1 month later...

This thread has been to quiete for waaay to long. So I thought I'd post my new steed, some may recognise this Warden as it was previously Iwan Kemp's bike.

 

Spec is...

Knolly warden carbon frame

Fork: Mrp ribbon coil

Shock: cane creek IL coil

Cranks: Xx1 carbon

Pedals: oneup comp flats

Drivetrain: box one 11 speed

Handlebar: nukeproof horizon carbon

Dropper: Lyne 150 xl

Wheels:Lyne amp 30 with high engagement hub (loving them)

Brakes:rsc ultimate guides

 

????

post-60543-0-23203300-1554917473_thumb.jpg

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This thread has been to quiete for waaay to long. So I thought I'd post my new steed, some may recognise this Warden as it was previously Iwan Kemp's bike.

 

Spec is...

Knolly warden carbon frame

Fork: Mrp ribbon coil

Shock: cane creek IL coil

Cranks: Xx1 carbon

Pedals: oneup comp flats

Drivetrain: box one 11 speed

Handlebar: nukeproof horizon carbon

Dropper: Lyne 150 xl

Wheels:Lyne amp 30 with high engagement hub (loving them)

Brakes:rsc ultimate guides

 

????

And that trail is just the place to put it to work!

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This thread has been to quiete for waaay to long. So I thought I'd post my new steed, some may recognise this Warden as it was previously Iwan Kemp's bike.

Spec is...

Knolly warden carbon frame

Fork: Mrp ribbon coil

Shock: cane creek IL coil

Cranks: Xx1 carbon

Pedals: oneup comp flats

Drivetrain: box one 11 speed

Handlebar: nukeproof horizon carbon

Dropper: Lyne 150 xl

Wheels:Lyne amp 30 with high engagement hub (loving them)

Brakes:rsc ultimate guides

 

Nice man. Enjoy plenty rides!

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This is my #enduro bike. Coming from riding XC bikes all my life, this has been quite the eye opener in terms of how big a difference geometry actually makes. Sections of single track that were quite daunting are now easier to negotiate, and a lot more fun (as I am not afraid of face planting anymore mainly due to the dropper post/getting my weight far enough back).

 

I'm loving every second on this bike!!

 

SILVERBACK SLADE TRAIL
 
SPECIFICATIONS
 
CRANKSET: Raceface Ride, 32t, Black
PEDALS: Shimano Saint Flat Pedals (PD-M828)
CASSETTE: Sunrace 11-46 11 Speed, 418% Wide Range
REAR DERAILEUR: Shimano XT M8000 Long Cage, Black
SHIFTER: Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed, Black
 
FORK: Rockshox Revelation Charger RC, 140mm, DebonAir, Diffusion Black, Boost 110, Charger Damper, Reduced 42mm Offset
 
WHEELS: Stan's Flow S1, 29mm Internal Width
TYRES: Maxxis Rekon 29x2.6", EXO/TR, 60Tpi
 
SEATPOST: X-Fusion Manic Dropper Post, Internal Routing, 150mm 
SADDLE: Specialized Phenom Expert 155mm
HANDLEBAR: Sector Plane Alloy Handlebar, Dia:31.8mm, Backsweep:9°, Rise 5mm; W: 780mm 
GRIPS: King Kom Silicone with KCNC 'Outta My Face' Bar End Plugs
STEM: Sector Alloy Stem, 31.8mm, Rise 6°, with stainless steel bolts; L: 45mm
 
CALIPERS: Shimano Deore MT500
LEVERS: Shimano Deore MT501
ROTORS: Shimano SM-RT76-M 180mm/180mm, 6 Bolt
 
FRAME: 29" Butted 6061 Aluminium, Tapered 1-1/8"-1.5" Headtube, 12 x 148mm, SBC 12mm Thru Axle Dropouts
 
WEIGHT: 12.96kg

post-37016-0-69485900-1554920962_thumb.jpg

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Awesome bike!

 

And I love that trail.

 

Side note: Skollied @Otero's flat Shimano Saint pedals and picking up my 2FO's tomorrow...Now I just need to get a lekker broek

 

Amped!

Where did you get the 2FO's and if you dont mind me asking, what was the damage on a pair?

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Where did you get the 2FO's and if you dont mind me asking, what was the damage on a pair?

Specialized in Stellenbosch seems to have a decent amount of stock, they come in black with white "side soles" or screaming orange. They retail for R2160, but they are currently on 25% off, so decided to pull the trigger.

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Specialized in Stellenbosch seems to have a decent amount of stock, they come in black with white "side soles" or screaming orange. They retail for R2160, but they are currently on 25% off, so decided to pull the trigger.

Thanks Jako, at 25% off maybe it's time I bite the bullet as well

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This is my #enduro bike. Coming from riding XC bikes all my life, this has been quite the eye opener in terms of how big a difference geometry actually makes. Sections of single track that were quite daunting are now easier to negotiate, and a lot more fun (as I am not afraid of face planting anymore mainly due to the dropper post/getting my weight far enough back).

 

I'm loving every second on this bike!!

 

SILVERBACK SLADE TRAIL

 

SPECIFICATIONS

 

 

 

WEIGHT: 12.96kg

Told u so. ???? Excellent bike tho!

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