Jump to content

Brakes not really breaking


RussDix

Recommended Posts

A leak would surely show traces, and I have not found anything. Been feeling ready to give up on them ever since the weekend ride...

Mr rolla

 

From what I can remember when I used to bleed avids(elixir cr's)....quite a while ago is that it is a patience game....do a normal bleed as per instructions and then sit with a plastic ruler and tap the whole system(especially the levers) lightly...while the bleed port is still open....I used to get little bubbles coming out by doing this. Its a 5 day game unfortunately so have a six pack handy and radio on mix fm...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I dont drink and fix anymore. cost too much, both parts and beer.

 

If I was retired, or had lots of time on my hands, I would love a little challenge like this, but time is owned by work and 3 boys.

 

Patience. OK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mr rolla

 

From what I can remember when I used to bleed avids(elixir cr's)....quite a while ago is that it is a patience game....do a normal bleed as per instructions and then sit with a plastic ruler and tap the whole system(especially the levers) lightly...while the bleed port is still open....I used to get little bubbles coming out by doing this. Its a 5 day game unfortunately so have a six pack handy and radio on mix fm...

 

Yeah. Air bubbles have a habit of locking on to ANYTHING they can. Especially in an oil mixture. Stubborn little feckers. And if you rush the job, no matter which system you're using, you'll introduce more air into the system and be at sq 1 again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

I put new brake pads on my bike today and now they hardly working. Only once the lever basically touches the bars do you feel anything start to happen. I bled them and still no improvement, any advice on how I can sort this out?

They are avid juicey disk brakes.

Thanks

Curiosity killed the kat? If you replaced the pads why did u bleed the brakes? Next time just replace the pads maybe :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a 5 day game unfortunately so have a six pack handy and radio on mix fm... :eek: :eek: :eek:

 

Jussie pal, Ive died of thirst just reading this

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And? I've also had shimano (my wife has them on her bike) as well as tektro. Now THOSE were crap.

 

In the avid stable - elixir 5, xx + code.

 

The OP's problem could occur with any brand. Maybe a bit of diet stuck next to the piston, but most probably air in the system and improperly bedded pads

I don't see how improperly bedded pads can affect the take-up position of the brakes.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't see how improperly bedded pads can affect the take-up position of the brakes.

 

More from the amount of force being applied to get them to bite. Agreed on when the pads make contact, but if there's oil or contamination or just a combination of a bad bleed and improperly bedded pads, it may contribute to the braking force only being felt at that point (v close to the bars)

 

But if you read my post again I say "probably air in the system AND improperly bedded pads" as in both things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anyone's throwing away a set of Juicys, I need a set for my SS. I've got rotors, just need the hydraulic bits.

 

Hustler :thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More from the amount of force being applied to get them to bite. Agreed on when the pads make contact, but if there's oil or contamination or just a combination of a bad bleed and improperly bedded pads, it may contribute to the braking force only being felt at that point (v close to the bars)

 

But if you read my post again I say "probably air in the system AND improperly bedded pads" as in both things.

Disclaimers like "probably" doesn't get you off the hook. A contaminated brake will have exactly the same feel as a properly working one and there was no need to throw in solutions to other brake-related problems. The OP stated clearly what the symptoms are and deserves either a sensible answer or silence. Throwing a bunch of red herrings on the trail doesn't help him solve the problem nor does it help the understanding of hydraulic brakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hustler :thumbup:

 

Just trying to get the anti-Avid brigade to put its money where its mouth is. If it lands me a free brakeset it's a bonus.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Disclaimers like "probably" doesn't get you off the hook. A contaminated brake will have exactly the same feel as a properly working one and there was no need to throw in solutions to other brake-related problems. The OP stated clearly what the symptoms are and deserves either a sensible answer or silence. Throwing a bunch of red herrings on the trail doesn't help him solve the problem nor does it help the understanding of hydraulic brakes.

 

Johan - I was pointing to my use of AND. Read, man, before you try and have an argument with me.

 

If he's just installed the pads, it stands to reason that they haven't been bedded in, yes?

 

If the lever is pulling all the way to the bars before "feeling something" (braking force / pad movement was not clear from the OP) there's either air in the system, a leak somewhere, the pads and / or discs are contaminated (oil / whatever - pulls the brakes but doesn't feel any great amount of stopping power until they're almost at the bars) or there's something up with the pistons ito blockage / misalignment, yes?

 

But, as I said before - the problem is MOST PROBABLY air in the system AND improperly bedded pads.

 

Great. Glad you agree.

Edited by cpt armpies mayhem
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Disclaimers like "probably" doesn't get you off the hook. A contaminated brake will have exactly the same feel as a properly working one and there was no need to throw in solutions to other brake-related problems. The OP stated clearly what the symptoms are and deserves either a sensible answer or silence. Throwing a bunch of red herrings on the trail doesn't help him solve the problem nor does it help the understanding of hydraulic brakes.

Eish, no need to get aggressive with the guy when he was just trying to offer some helpful advice based on his passed experiences. After all is that not part of what thehub is supposed to be?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Johan - I was pointing to my use of AND. Read, man, before you try and have an argument with me.

 

If he's just installed the pads, it stands to reason that they haven't been bedded in, yes?

 

If the lever is pulling all the way to the bars before "feeling something" (braking force / pad movement was not clear from the OP) there's either air in the system, a leak somewhere, the pads and / or discs are contaminated (oil / whatever - pulls the brakes but doesn't feel any great amount of stopping power until they're almost at the bars) or there's something up with the pistons ito blockage / misalignment, yes?

 

But, as I said before - the problem is MOST PROBABLY air in the system AND improperly bedded pads.

 

Great. Glad you agree.

biting my lip here....

 

cpt...meneer, smile and wave. Trolls hate it

Edited by rouxtjie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anyone's throwing away a set of Juicys, I need a set for my SS. I've got rotors, just need the hydraulic bits.

 

Got a recently serviced set of Juicy Threes (white in color, sans rotors) for sale. Make me an offer I can't refuse. :whistling:

Upgraded to an even better set of Avids, the Elixer R's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout