fulcrum racing pro 7 wheels

[Kom]

A question for the smart fellas...if you weigh 108 kg what is the weight distribution ratio between the front and back wheel?

70:30 sounds reasonable...you would also need to take the bike geometry into account.

The wheels have a weight limit of 109 kg each...you would need to be a flippen heavy oke to exceed the limit

This could be an entire thread on its own. I'd say that the wattage coming from a 109kg rider, climbing a hill, standing, will produce enough torque on that rear wheel that will exceed what a 150kg rider would exert just sitting on the bike.

[eccc whippet]

The mechanic at j&j only gets back to work next week...so for now my bike is a really expensive ornament hanging on my office wall.

 

I need to understand the weight limit and how it affects the rider weight...taking into consideration that i am not riding a uni cycle.

[eccc whippet]

This could be an entire thread on its own. I'd say that the wattage coming from a 109kg rider, climbing a hill, standing, will produce enough torque on that rear wheel that will exceed what a 150kg rider would exert just sitting on the bike.

There are lots of clever people on this forum i am sure someone will come up with the answer...i have also replied to fulcrum with the question.

 

Is the 109 kg per wheel or the rider on the bike?

[Veebee]

remember you also need to take into account the weight of your kit, frame, full water bottles etc...

 

While I can see the need to understand the weight distribution, as you may need this to fight a claim with J&J, I still don't think this has much to do with your weight but more a fault on the wheel.

[eccc whippet]

just collected the wheel...

 

conclusion...very expensive lesson in wheels.

 

Just over R2000 later the total spent todate on wheel rebuilds...spoke replacement...spoke tension...tyre replacement and courier services etc...to learn that the problem was just a damaged tyre...but while trying to sort out the problem learnt that i need a suitable wheels set to carry my weight or loose 10 - 15 kg...a problem which started with a simple bounce on the back wheel.

 

So let this be a lesson...if your bike bounces at 50 km/hr +...dont send it in to get the wheel straightened...rather check the tyre yourself first because if you send it in and tell them the bike is bouncing at 50 km/hr and ask for the wheel to be straightened that is what they will do...straighten the wheel...if it is a new wheel and they start tightening and loosening the nipples...chances are they could break a spoke as in my case...then your simple tyre problem just gets a whole lot worse.

 

if you have a vredestein fortezza tri comp slick it could just be that the tyre has collapsed...(dont know what the correct phrase used for the problem with the tyre)not sure what caused it a i bought the bike second hand with the damaged tyre...rather swop the front and back tyre...if you find you have a shudder on the front...then just replace the tyres...dont mess with the nipples.

 

If you weigh over 95 kg...i would "caution" you to do some research on the wheels supplied with any bike you purchase...and if fulcrum wheels (other than red which are suitable for 127kg) it might pay you to replace them with wheels more suitable for your weight.

 

They might work fine for while...but as the manager at fulcrum in Italy indicated...you will start experiencing problems with the wheels...some of the most common problems...hair line cracks on the rim...spokes working loose and spokes breaking.

[Kom]

conclusion...very expensive lesson in wheels.

 

If you weigh over 95 kg...i would "caution" you to do some research on the wheels supplied with any bike you purchase...and if fulcrum wheels (other than red which are suitable for 127kg) it might pay you to replace them with wheels more suitable for your weight.

 

It's painful to spend that much time and money for an issue that could have been avoided early on if your LBS had just checked the tire themselves, did you specifically ask for a wheel truing going back to that first visit? The tire comes off so quickly there is little time to check the tire before its on to the truing stand, although the rebuilds you carried out should definitely have caused a check too ...

 

Nevertheless as an update to my fulcrum racing 7 saga, I've put around 300km onto the wheels since the rebuild and can say that they are back to perfection, smooth as anything. I can thoroughly recommend Shawn from CWC who carried out my rebuild. I was skeptical that the use of longer more torque'y nipples would solve my problem, but am pleasantly surprised. I dare say the whole bike just feels that much stiffer to ride, great for putting down the power.

[NordicElf]

just collected the wheel...

 

conclusion...very expensive lesson in wheels.

 

Just over R2000 later the total spent todate on wheel rebuilds...spoke replacement...spoke tension...tyre replacement and courier services etc...to learn that the problem was just a damaged tyre...but while trying to sort out the problem learnt that i need a suitable wheels set to carry my weight or loose 10 - 15 kg...a problem which started with a simple bounce on the back wheel.

 

So let this be a lesson...if your bike bounces at 50 km/hr +...dont send it in to get the wheel straightened...rather check the tyre yourself first because if you send it in and tell them the bike is bouncing at 50 km/hr and ask for the wheel to be straightened that is what they will do...straighten the wheel...if it is a new wheel and they start tightening and loosening the nipples...chances are they could break a spoke as in my case...then your simple tyre problem just gets a whole lot worse.

 

if you have a vredestein fortezza tri comp slick it could just be that the tyre has collapsed...(dont know what the correct phrase used for the problem with the tyre)not sure what caused it a i bought the bike second hand with the damaged tyre...rather swop the front and back tyre...if you find you have a shudder on the front...then just replace the tyres...dont mess with the nipples.

 

If you weigh over 95 kg...i would "caution" you to do some research on the wheels supplied with any bike you purchase...and if fulcrum wheels (other than red which are suitable for 127kg) it might pay you to replace them with wheels more suitable for your weight.

 

They might work fine for while...but as the manager at fulcrum in Italy indicated...you will start experiencing problems with the wheels...some of the most common problems...hair line cracks on the rim...spokes working loose and spokes breaking.

That's rather unfortunate, thanks for sharing your story though. how does one know if the tyre has collapsed? Is it something you see? Or is the only test, swapping front and rear?

[eccc whippet]

I threw the tyre away so that it didnt get mixed up...so i cant take a pic...you could feel it when you spin the wheel...it had a slight flat spot...but because the tyre being black with red on the sides you could see the black line didnt run straight in the middle at one point...when i saw it i thought it might be a problem but only when the tyre was swoped front to back could you feel the difference...straight away you could feel it on the handlebars...but when on the back you could only feel it at about 50 km/hr...i have no idea what caused it as i purchased the bike second hand.

 

there have been a few strange things i am still trying to figue out with this bike...like the back derailer hanger was bent...but there is not a scratch or dent on the derailer...and i will never know what caused it.

[tombeej]

For a great wheelbuilder (and all round top notch LBS) in DBN, go see Tony at Republic Sports in North Coast rd. The only guy I will trust my bikes with. He's built a few wheels for me - both mtb and road - and always perfectly built. Just remember that as a heavier rider, with a new wheel build it's a good idea to first go for a spin to 'settle' the spokes, then take back to Tony for a final tweak of the tensioning. After that your wheels should stay perfectly true for the rest of their lifespan.

[eccc whippet]

For a great wheelbuilder (and all round top notch LBS) in DBN, go see Tony at Republic Sports in North Coast rd. The only guy I will trust my bikes with. He's built a few wheels for me - both mtb and road - and always perfectly built. Just remember that as a heavier rider, with a new wheel build it's a good idea to first go for a spin to 'settle' the spokes, then take back to Tony for a final tweak of the tensioning. After that your wheels should stay perfectly true for the rest of their lifespan.

I took the wheel to tony...he was the one who said the wheel looked to new to start fiddling with it...so he sent it to J&J...they replaced 1 spoke and sent it back...with a R600 bill...which i dont mind paying...even though the wheels fall within the warranty period...i exceed the weight limit.

 

i am tempted to take the bike for a ride to see if it comes loose...if it does then the last guy who works on it didnt do anything wrong...personal i dont believe he did anything wrong...i watched him work on the wheel and seen him build many top end wheels...never heard a complaint... but i cant take a chance...i need to be below 100 kg before i have a legit complaint...

 

the manager at fulcrum is convinced that my weight is the problem...i am assuming he has had a few of these wheels returned for claims.

 

i see there is a set of compagnolo zondo wheel set for sale in classifieds...i am told these wheels should be able to carry my weight...anyone seen a rider weight limit or have heavy mates who ride using these wheels.

Edited January 19, 2016 by isetech

[Kom]

1. i need to be below 100 kg before i have a legit complaint...

 

2. the manager at fulcrum is convinced that my weight is the problem...i am assuming he has had a few of these wheels returned for claims.

 

3. i see there is a set of compagnolo zondo wheel set for sale in classifieds...i am told these wheels should be able to carry my weight...anyone seen a rider weight limit or have heavy mates who ride using these wheels.

1.Thats total BS, sorry, I've been reading the forum for long enough now and you need to debunk that myth.

2. Even at 100kg, your bike, drinks, tools etc means you need to be 88kgs to allow 12kgs for equipment? Ive never heard such nonsense

3. Don't waste your time on 2nd hand wheels to end up dealing with other peoples k*k. Those campies are the same price as a brand new pair of Mavics with Tires from evotech (link is floating here in the thread somewhere).

 

Do me a favour, ride the wheels, if they still start stripping, have the nipples replaces with longer high torque ones. If that also fails, ill refund you the R600 it will cost for the rebuild and nipples, and you can use that towards a new set of rims.

[eccc whippet]

The weight limit of the wheel set is 109 kg all included...and they have advised that they dont allow for any back and front wheel weight ratio etc...information sent from the manager at fulcrum to me via email...thats why i need to be below 100 kg to be within the weight limit...allowing 9 kg for the rest of the stuff...i am prepared to loose the weight and put them to the test...it is good motivation for me to loose weight

 

this is  the reason I to sent them to J&J...and paid the bill...they are the fulcrum agents in South Africa...their mechanic has checked replaced a spoke and re tensioned the wheel. 

 

 

 

 

good morning. Thank you very much for your email.

 

This is not true: our products are certified for a certain weight (109 Kgs) and this is a fixed value not depending by body or frame geometry or other factors.

 

109 Kgs is the maximum weight allowed for our wheel sets.

 

Best Regards

 

Giorgio Ferron

Area Manager

 

 

[eccc whippet]

I had no choice but to use the portrait (merida) hanging on my office wall last week...set up the the treksta for my sister to use.

 

I only did about 50 km in total...check the spokes after each ride...they are still tight...and i now weigh 112 kg...most of the ride was hillclimbing standing out the saddle putting more weight on the pedals

 

 

 

It seems every bike shop owns a device to true your wheels...is it such a wise idea to allow them fiddle with your wheels.

 

One thing i noticed about the fulcrum wheel is ALL the spokes make the same sound when you "pluck" them.

 

Would a wheel builder use a torque device when building a wheel or just keep adjusting until the rim runs true?

[javadude]

 

One thing i noticed about the fulcrum wheel is ALL the spokes make the same sound when you "pluck" them.

 

Would a wheel builder use a torque device when building a wheel or just keep adjusting until the rim runs true?

 

Every bike shop should have a tension meter to make sure the spokes are evenly tensioned. Manufacturers like Easton use acoustic tuning: 

 

[Kom]

Every bike shop should have a tension meter to make sure the spokes are evenly tensioned. Manufacturers like Easton use acoustic tuning: 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YizrSCNVRQ

The spoke torque meter relies on a very rustic bend tension test which at high torque must've relatives in accurate.

 

Acoustic tuning makes sense, but I have doubts about the accuracy dependant on all spokes being made to exacting standards so that the resonance is exactly the same.

 

I still believe that wheel lacing and truing is mostly a black art done really well by those that have just got the most experience.

[eccc whippet]

I believe it it is like anything you run at the limit...you need a perfectionist/specialist to take care it...

 

For example my field...electrical...any fool can run any size wire from a DB to a plug...however once you start loading the circuit to more 80 % capacity...thats when things start going wrong if the person who carried out the job doesnt know what he is doing...or over tightens screws...doesnt use the correct connectors etc etc etc

 

I believe it is the same with this wheel building/truing...if a wheel is designed to carry a max weight of 110 kg and a person who weighs 60 kg is using the wheel...chances are they will not encounter any issues with the wheel...spokes or rims...however once you get to the 100 kg rider weight...that wheel has to be setup 100 % correct by someone who is experienced... Otherwise you will experiences issues with the spokes...if you are 120 kg... the wheel will experience cracks in the rim

 

I have taken wheels to many different bike shop around durban...i find whenever i get them back the spoke tension is never even...when you have cross over spokes you can generally check this by squeezing the 2 spokes which makes a croaking sound ...the sound should be similar.

 

When you have wheels where the spokes dont cross over...you have to "pluck" each spoke.

 

From my experience...i have learnt not to assume the wheel is the problem...but rather check and replace the tube and tyre first...a very expensive mistake I hope never to repeat.