Jump to content

Post your woodwork here


Slowbee
 Share

Recommended Posts

Stripped down the budget Festool router. When I got it the plunge wasn't working due to stiction.

It's infinitely better now, and seems to be running great.

Hopefully it's 81 Kiwi Copecs well spent.

Next challenge is finding a guide bushing adapter for it. Local Festool agents don't have them.

3B086B62-CC55-4878-BFFF-AD479CE9EA0A.jpeg.f0b5b1183f02ee86e2a1c381fe6089fb.jpeg

D210E88F-6757-4715-B32E-DCBEEA04E8CD.jpeg.2f5cb351a13b8cbe58b5dd47002a5d30.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 5.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

4 minutes ago, patches said:

Stripped down the budget Festool router. When I got it the plunge wasn't working due to stiction.

It's infinitely better now, and seems to be running great.

Hopefully it's 81 Kiwi Copecs well spent.

Next challenge is finding a guide bushing adapter for it. Local Festool agents don't have them.

3B086B62-CC55-4878-BFFF-AD479CE9EA0A.jpeg.f0b5b1183f02ee86e2a1c381fe6089fb.jpeg

D210E88F-6757-4715-B32E-DCBEEA04E8CD.jpeg.2f5cb351a13b8cbe58b5dd47002a5d30.jpeg

You could experiment with 3d printing one in the meantime while you wait for the part. Just up the wall count in Cura and it should hold up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, ABrooks said:

You could experiment with 3d printing one in the meantime while you wait for the part. Just up the wall count in Cura and it should hold up.

Funny, I was thinking exactly the same thing.

When you have a 3D printer you think quite differently about these kinds of problems!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, patches said:

 

Hopefully it's 81 Kiwi Copecs well spent.

 

Are those loosely related to Canuckistan Copecs?

:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
23 minutes ago, ABrooks said:

You could experiment with 3d printing one in the meantime while you wait for the part. Just up the wall count in Cura and it should hold up.

 

10 minutes ago, Rocket-Boy said:

Funny, I was thinking exactly the same thing.

When you have a 3D printer you think quite differently about these kinds of problems!

 

Yeah was also thinking of printing one. I know roughly what the Festool one looks like. I just need to get some guide bushes so I can work on the ID of the adapter (although it should be 30mm as I believe that's what most threaded guide bush sets are.

469627_1.jpg

I did check thingiverse, but no luck, so I'll have to reverse engineer one... once I get my verniers back from Lost & Found at the Men's Shed 🙈

6 minutes ago, Rocket-Boy said:

Are those loosely related to Canuckistan Copecs?

:D

1 Canuckistan Copec = 1.13 Kiwi Copecs. Maybe they should rather be called Kiwi Kwacha at that rate!

Edited by patches
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Being vernierless, I used a steel rule to quickly measure up and model 2 options.

The left based on the base opening (should offer more resistance against torsional flex). The right baed on the OEM Festool adpater (or as best as I could judge it.

image.png.837f7f6b26a30ed2540dad3f90cc5b21.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, patches said:

Being vernierless, I used a steel rule to quickly measure up and model 2 options.

The left based on the base opening (should offer more resistance against torsional flex). The right baed on the OEM Festool adpater (or as best as I could judge it.

image.png.837f7f6b26a30ed2540dad3f90cc5b21.png

I like your design more for 3D printing, it will be a more rigid part. 

I wonder how much Festool charges for that stamped piece of steel?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Rocket-Boy said:

I like your design more for 3D printing, it will be a more rigid part. 

I wonder how much Festool charges for that stamped piece of steel?

More than they should?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I made one if my most important pieces to date...

A ring box for my wedding in 3 days time.

 

BE8139F5-B7EB-412B-B036-EB64742B019D.jpeg.95699b4151373c7266fc31b081f55534.jpeg

Black Walnut with Neodymium magnets hidden beneath opposing corners to create closing latch system and a pivot to allow it to swing open.

EB498DE6-9D7F-485B-A25F-A4F754F666FF.jpeg.57f7f779faf9c8c2f7512b2d88ded8cd.jpeg

Fabric samples from SA to add a touch of home.

EACB59B8-8C60-4A7E-A4F4-91CA96054007.jpeg.6825404aa50777450f1ff378213f8670.jpeg 

Was a fun build with some interesting challenges.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Just a heads up. Stay away from Pro-Tech router bits.

I just ruined a bookcase I was building because the trimmer bit malfunctioned. Half a sheet worth of 21mm Birch ply stuffed up.

The screw that holds the bearing came loose while I was trimming an edge causing the bit to take away more material than it should have.

Never in my life will I touch that crap again. Problem is that we don't have much options here in ZA. And I just bought it on Monday. So it was brand new. Most probably they used the cheapest thread lock in existence.

Edited by dev null
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, dev null said:

Just a heads up. Stay away from Pro-Tech router bits.

I just ruined a bookcase I was building because the trimmer bit malfunctioned. Half a sheet worth of 21mm Birch ply stuffed up.

The screw that holds the bearing came loose while I was trimming an edge causing the bit to take away more material than it should have.

Never in my life will I touch that crap again. Problem is that we don't have much options here in ZA. And I just bought it on Monday. So it was brand new. Most probably they used the cheapest thread lock in existence.

Sorry to hear, I think you can get Freud router bits in South Africa, pricey but might be worth it if their saw blades is anything to go by. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, ABrooks said:

Sorry to hear, I think you can get Freud router bits in South Africa, pricey but might be worth it if their saw blades is anything to go by. 

 

Thanks. I also found Whiteside router bits somewhere on an SA site. Double what I paid for the Pro-Tech, but at the price of premium wood these days one cannot have cheap tools ruin your project in a few seconds what you spent hours on working carefully and accurately because you cannot afford to scrap the wood for a second go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, dev null said:

 

Thanks. I also found Whiteside router bits somewhere on an SA site. Double what I paid for the Pro-Tech, but at the price of premium wood these days one cannot have cheap tools ruin your project in a few seconds what you spent hours on working carefully and accurately because you cannot afford to scrap the wood for a second go.

 

Dimar bits is probably the best you can find locally. But a screw coming loose does not necessarily make it a bad bit. Imo, Protech bits are crap, but you should probably always use some locktite on the bearing screw or at least check that it's not coming loose - they're made for interchangeability between different size bearings.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, stefmeister said:

 

Dimar bits is probably the best you can find locally. But a screw coming loose does not necessarily make it a bad bit. Imo, Protech bits are crap, but you should probably always use some locktite on the bearing screw or at least check that it's not coming loose - they're made for interchangeability between different size bearings.

 

agree with stefmeister.

 

I too had a bearing come loose, and it royally fudged up my work. But i realized the fault was mine, in that i failed to check for free running of the bearing first. The screw clamps down on the inner race of the bearing with the outer race intended to run freely. If the bearing is not maintained, crud build, rust etc up can cause increased friction between the bearing balls and the races.

So depending on which way you run the router, i think the increased internal friction could act to unwind that screw over time, not to mention vibrations from dull bits causing the same.
Threadlocker should prevent the loosening due to vibration, but that's part of maintenance of the bit and its bearings, to ensure the presence and condition of the threadlocker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

My Profile My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Settings Help Logout