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Review: Pyga Stage Max


Iwan Kemp

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how much?  Is this supposed to compete with the Camber or equivalent?

 

 

 

A mate just bought a Pyga Stage (his 1st pyga) and he absolutely LOVES it. 

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Grips can be fixed, anyone sorted that very untidy cable routing?

 

Thing is with the routing as is you will need a bit of slack as it would need that extra length when at full travel. Some brands recommend ±25mm around the BB. Not a huge issue, or issue at all really. Just doesn't sit well with my OCD

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Nice looking bike. Generally, I'm not a fan of bikes that have different travel numbers back and front, but it isn't always a deal breaker.

 

But I'd much rather take a Jeffsy!

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Awesome looking machine. I know very little about the tech side of things, what does dished wheel mean and are the spokes not equal in length?

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In normal rear wheels the hub flanges to which the spokes attach are off centre to make space for the cassette, so the spoke angle is flatter on the drive side. The asymmetrical spoke angles result in the term "dish". This makes for higher spoke tension on drive side and makes the wheel less stiff than it could be but centres it in the frame. On the Stage the frame offsets the whole rear axle/hub assembly 5mm to drive side so the wheel rim must be shifted 5mm to left relative to the hub/axle in order to keep it lined up with the bike frame's centreline.

 

This equalises spoke angle and tension somewhat making the wheel potentially stiffer for same average spoke tension.

 

If converting an existing wheel the spoke lengths change less than 1mm so it may not be necessary to change the spokes if they are still healthy (but wiser to fit new if they are well used).

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Edited by JXV
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Really considered this bike - took it for a full day spin as well, and enjoyed it.

In the end, bought the Specialized Camber Comp Carbon, fitted carbon wheels and XT brakes and still has R10k change.

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In normal rear wheels the hub flanges to which the spokes attach are off centre to make space for the cassette, so the spoke angle is flatter on the drive side. The asymmetrical spoke angles result in the term "dish". This makes for higher spoke tension on drive side and makes the wheel less stiff than it could be but centres it in the frame. On the Stage the frame offsets the whole rear axle/hub assembly 5mm to drive side so the wheel rim must be shifted 5mm to left relative to the hub/axle in order to keep it lined up with the bike frame's centreline.

 

This equalises spoke angle and tension somewhat making the wheel potentially stiffer for same average spoke tension.

 

If converting an existing wheel the spoke lengths change less than 1mm so it may not be necessary to change the spokes if they are still healthy (but wiser to fit new if they are well used).

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Fascinating. Thanks for this info, never actually thought about it, now I know.

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