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MTB Tyre Sealant Choices


DarrenV

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I'm brand new to cycling as a whole, but rode my MTB for the first time this morning. Had to make a stop at Solomons since the tubeless rear tyre was flat. Spet some money, got some slime and air in the tyre and hit the road. I had to abort after 12 km since the tyre was too soft for safety. Went and took the bike out the car now and the tyre is completely flat. I'm sure the people at Solomons would happily redo this morning's chore at no cost (bar the schlepp) or i could simply install a tube?? Any comment or advice would be appreciated. 

 

Tubes in MTB are to get you home once the tubeless is wrecked. You can pump the tire and dip in a swimming pool to see where it leaks. Mostly it leaks at the valve. +1 for Solomons, they'll sort it out.

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Pretty much impossible to avoid latex or ammonia. But Enduro doesn't have ammonia. It does have latex however. How else would it seal?

Ignore the Maxxis warranty mumbo jumbo. They won't honour any warranty on failure anyway.

Does Durex honour warranties? All rubber companies use the "improper use" get out of jail card

 There is a sealant called Fugit that does not have Latex or Amonia in it.  Problem is, as you say, you struggle to get the tyre to seal or attach to the rim bead.  What I do is to rub some of the Latex based sealant on the tyre bead and it works fine.

 

The Latex or Amoniac causes bubbles to form on the tyre.  Had to throw away many tyres due to this.

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If you're keen to try something new give the Deed Tyre Sealant a try. Disclaimer: We have recently taken over the distribution of the brand, but not after some thorough testing on our own bikes which we were very pleased with. 

 

The sealant has performed on both gravel and mountain bikes and we haven't had any issues on our gravel bike which also has Csixx Fomos installed.

 

Patrick Morewood from PYGA developed the sealant and it has been used by the PYGA Eurosteel team since the beginning of last year through the Epic, Joberg2C and Cape Pioneer among other races.

 

Pro's aside, our dealers in towns such as Oudtshoorn have also been very impressed. Oudtshoorn is a great testing ground as the heat in summer can dry sealant in tyres quicker than in other areas and the terrain in quite rough and rocky not too mention the thorns.

Edited by Bikalot.com
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  • 1 year later...

I've used Enduro seal in my tyres, new Enzos front and back, back one sealed and set immediately, struggled for about a month with the front tyre deflating the whole time (had a serious leak where sealant would spray out from the sidewall). Added some Bontrager which I got from a friend and eventually it sealed. Still deflates a little in 2 weeks time but nothing serious.befc76bf3b8716f9d51dd61a6143a682.jpg51c86c75318ef89d6e61fd818f63495b.jpg

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  • 9 months later...

 There is a sealant called Fugit that does not have Latex or Amonia in it.  Problem is, as you say, you struggle to get the tyre to seal or attach to the rim bead.  What I do is to rub some of the Latex based sealant on the tyre bead and it works fine.

 

The Latex or Amoniac causes bubbles to form on the tyre.  Had to throw away many tyres due to this.

 

Bought some Fug It at Midas. About half the price vs cycling specific sealants. Just wanted to make sure it won't cause issues with alu rims. The main ingredients seem to be glycol (antifreeze?)  and probably latex.

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Dismal failures for me have been the hyped up, Finish Line and Squirt 'bead blocker'
 

Now stick with;
Pyga seal

Bat Seal
Ryder

Stans occasionally, but as mentioned it is pricey. I was fortunate to get a bottle when I got the Stans Dart plugs, those I swear by.

Wouldn't mind getting hold of some Orange Seal as I've heard good things from mates across the pond.

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Dismal failures for me have been the hyped up, Finish Line and Squirt 'bead blocker'

 

Now stick with;

Pyga seal

Bat Seal

Ryder

 

Stans occasionally, but as mentioned it is pricey. I was fortunate to get a bottle when I got the Stans Dart plugs, those I swear by.

 

Wouldn't mind getting hold of some Orange Seal as I've heard good things from mates across the pond.

 

I currently have the Ryder sealant in my tyres. It definitely works - I pulled out a thorn, it hissed, sprayed out a bit of sealant and then sealed.

 

One of the LBS here stocks Slime Tubeless which is the newer version of Slime Pro. Slime Pro was the first sealant I used and what I liked was that it stayed liquid for a long time. Might go back to it once my current sealant is done. The green will suit my bike's paint job too :P

Edited by MrJacques
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Sludge Uniseal. One of the LBS here recommends it. It actually works in tubes too because it's not very thick. Not the same as Dr. Sludge.

 

uni-seal-200ml-600x600.jpg

Used  this about a month ago with new tyres .

 

got tiny thorn a week ago , all sealant oozed  onto the floor (nice sticky mess)  and hole never sealed.  The hole was small enough that could ride it for a hour before needing to pump again.

 

Bought stans at 1/4 of the price (big bottle) and sealed instantly.  

 

Dunno if dodgy batch or just not good if older than few weeks.

Edited by Karman de Lange
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Used  this about a month ago with new tyres .

 

got tiny thorn a week ago , all sealant oozed  onto the floor (nice sticky mess)  and hole never sealed.  The hole was small enough that could ride it for a hour before needing to pump again.

 

Bought stans at 1/4 of the price (big bottle) and sealed instantly.  

 

Dunno if dodgy batch or just not good if older than few weeks.

 

That sucks. I've only used it in a tube before that had a tiny pin size puncture and it sealed it. Other thicker sealants haven't worked for me in tubes.

 

It's very thin - maybe too thin? Adding some glitter could help it to plug punctures better.

 

The valve core remover it comes with has been handy at least.

Edited by MrJacques
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Sludge Uniseal. One of the LBS here recommends it. It actually works in tubes too because it's not very thick. Not the same as Dr. Sludge.

 

uni-seal-200ml-600x600.jpg

When we started out my LBS recommended Sludge.

 

Thousands of km later, many hundreds of thorns, and we still use Sludge. :)

 

Between bust knees, then lockdown, my commuter stood still for about 9 months. I fully expected it to have solidified .... removed the one bead, and was happy to see it was still perfect. Rebeaded, and it is still going good.

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Took a whiff now of the Sludge, definitely has ammonia in it. Is that still an issue for Maxxis and delaminating (forming bubbles)?

 

The Ryder sealant doesn't smell like it has ammonia.

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