Entry-level smart trainer

[OnTheRicky]

Hi all, 

 

As the title suggests, I'm thinking about getting a smart trainer. 

We have a great little gym at our apartment building, but some chop keeps breaking the training bikes and I can't get decent training sessions in...

From my limited research, the best entry-level options seem to be Tacx Satori or Flow smart trainers. 

 

Could anyone share some insight on the other pieces of the puzzle I'm not considering and their general experience with a cheaper smart trainer? 

 

I'm worried that "goedkoop koop is duurkoop" will come back to haunt me. 

 

 

[fanievb]

speaking from experience,

STAY away from the TACX Flux

The belt drive is crap, I went through 3 units in less than a year and dealing with coolheat is NOT a pleasure

[Vetplant]

Hi all,

 

As the title suggests, I'm thinking about getting a smart trainer.

We have a great little gym at our apartment building, but some chop keeps breaking the training bikes and I can't get decent training sessions in...

 

From my limited research, the best entry-level options seem to be Tacx Satori or Flow smart trainers.

 

Could anyone share some insight on the other pieces of the puzzle I'm not considering and their general experience with a cheaper smart trainer?

 

I'm worried that "goedkoop koop is duurkoop" will come back to haunt me.

Think you need to sketch your needs with a little bit more detail.

 

I run Zwift on a dumb wheel-on trainer with a stages crank giving me feedback on power output and I get plenty of training effect for low capital investment. Plus I get Power readings from the Stages Crank when I am on the road.

 

I do feel like a smart trainer which would change resistance according to what Zwift tells it would be nice, but I think you need to spend about R7000 to get that,even 2nd-hand. Dumb trainer can be found for R500 and Stages Crank for R4000 in the classifieds if you shop around.

 

Top of the line smart trainers can go up to R20 000...

[OnTheRicky]

Think you need to sketch your needs with a little bit more detail.

 

I run Zwift on a dumb wheel-on trainer with a stages crank giving me feedback on power output and I get plenty of training effect for low capital investment. Plus I get Power readings from the Stages Crank when I am on the road.

 

I do feel like a smart trainer which would change resistance according to what Zwift tells it would be nice, but I think you need to spend about R7000 to get that,even 2nd-hand. Dumb trainer can be found for R500 and Stages Crank for R4000 in the classifieds if you shop around.

 

Top of the line smart trainers can go up to R20 000...

 

My wife and I have a 29er and a 27.5 MTB that we would like to use on the same trainer. We both would like to get power readings out for training, so buying one smart trainer would probably be easier than getting two power meters.  

 

 

[fanievb]

wheel on smart trainers with MTB is loud, you can get the noise down a little with a dedicated trainer tire, but you'd need an extra wheel (or change the tyre everytime you want to ride.

 

[OnTheRicky]

wheel on smart trainers with MTB is loud, you can get the noise down a little with a dedicated trainer tire, but you'd need an extra wheel (or change the tyre everytime you want to ride.

 

 

This is another factor to consider. 

 

If I get one of those training tyres, I need to get an entire wheelset with another cassette right? 

[fanievb]

This is another factor to consider. 

 

If I get one of those training tyres, I need to get an entire wheelset with another cassette right? 

 

a back wheel for each bike, with cassette

 

 

[Vetplant]

a back wheel for each bike, with cassette

 

 

Maybe just one 27.5 rear wheel and cassette with a trainer tyre. Surely this will work on the 29er as well, seeing as you are on the stationary trainer and not out on the trail. Might need to have a different front wheel height for the two bikes

[fanievb]

Maybe just one 27.5 rear wheel and cassette with a trainer tyre. Surely this will work on the 29er as well, seeing as you are on the stationary trainer and not out on the trail. Might need to have a different front wheel height for the two bikes

 

yeah, but that also depends on bike specs

 

qr/TA

9/10/11/12 speed

boost/normal

 

difficult to give advice without knowing specs

[OnTheRicky]

I think this is going to be a little tricky. 

 

The 29er is running 1x12 Sram GX Boost

The 27.50 is running 2x11 Shimano SLX 

[Vetplant]

I think this is going to be a little tricky.

 

The 29er is running 1x12 Sram GX Boost

The 27.50 is running 2x11 Shimano SLX

Cool, scratch my suggestion then.

 

Direct drive trainers would also then be out of the picture.

[thisismyotherbike]

Check with the master:

 

https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2018/11/trainer-buyers-recommendations-guide.html

[BicyclePower]

As suggested above a direct drive trainer will be your best bet. with so many rear axle configurations and cassette types a DD trainer will be easiest. while it is a big pill to swallow at first you will not be disappointed. there many great brands on the market and most will support your rear axle spec.

 

(just check RE the boost rear axle). 

[RobertWhitehead]

I've had the Satori Smart for over 2 years and currently have the Flow. The Satori is great value for money but it's very difficult to match the power and cadence from the app (either Sufferfest or Zwift) - you tend to either pedal too light or too hard because the 10 level resistance lever has a definite change when adjusting the levels. It does help if you can play with your gears whilst on the bike as well. But this is still a mission. 

 

The Flow on the other hand has a full ERG mode and adjusts according to your 4DP (Sufferfest specific) - This makes a huge difference.

 

Here's what I wrote to another hubber recently:

 

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/172383-indoor-trainer-plug-and-play/ 

 

I'm going to be so bold as to outline why its a bad idea to try and put your 1x12 Eagle set-up onto a trainer and then add the solution at the bottom after my essay   .

 

1st: If you take your current mtb set-up and put it onto a trainer you will most definitely sell the trainer after the first use. The reason for this statement is two to three fold - 

1) There will be nothing remotely easy or plug and play about having to install your bike onto a trainer, calibrating the trainer and then starting the training session - even the direct drive trainers still requires some assembly

2) The mtb tire will make such a racket that you'll not be able to hear anything else other than the noise of the wheel (if you go the cheaper option of the tire on the flywheel not direct drive option) - think 4x4 tires on the highway

3) Think wear and tear, remember km's on the drive train whether indoors or outdoors is the same thing. 

 

Now you've started to think how you would go about over coming the above mentioned and now you realize that if you get yourself another rear wheel with a slick and cassette you'll reduce the noise and you go through slightly less effort every time you want to train. You will then soon realize that by getting yourself a spare wheel will mean that you need to get another 12 speed cassette to fit and then trying to get someone to sell you just the rear wheel is easier said than done. 

Going with a direct drive trainer where the rear wheel is not required is an option but they go for R15k upwards. 

 

You will then decide that maybe its just too much effort and you'll scrap the whole idea all together   .

 

Now here's my solution to resolve all the above mentioned and also achieve your original wish of "no mess, no fuss" easy riding get up and go.

 

Look on the Hub for a 26er in your size (you can also build said bike - I prefer to build) - will be in the region of R3k 

 

Get yourself a Tacx Satori Smart, Flow, Vortex, Bushido or any other brand like the Wahoo then install the 26er onto the trainer and leave your current bike off the trainer. 

The Flow is currently going for R 6 499.00 from Cycle Lab: http://cyclelab.com/...-flow-trainer/ 

So the total spend on your new purchase = R 9 499.00 for a permanent solution and when you're training indoors you don't have to worry about wearing out the drive train on your mtb or the mission of putting it onto and taking it off the trainer  

Edited January 22, 2019 by RobertWhitehead

[Vetplant]

I've had the Satori Smart for over 2 years and currently have the Flow. The Satori is great value for money but it's very difficult to match the power and cadence from the app (either Sufferfest or Zwift) - you tend to either pedal too light or too hard because the 10 level resistance lever has a definite change when adjusting the levels. It does help if you can play with your gears whilst on the bike as well. But this is still a mission.

The Flow on the other hand has a full ERG mode and adjusts according to your 4DP (Sufferfest specific) - This makes a huge difference.

Here's what I wrote to another hubber recently:

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/172383-indoor-trainer-plug-and-play/

I'm going to be so bold as to outline why its a bad idea to try and put your 1x12 Eagle set-up onto a trainer and then add the solution at the bottom after my essay .

1st: If you take your current mtb set-up and put it onto a trainer you will most definitely sell the trainer after the first use. The reason for this statement is two to three fold -

1) There will be nothing remotely easy or plug and play about having to install your bike onto a trainer, calibrating the trainer and then starting the training session - even the direct drive trainers still requires some assembly

2) The mtb tire will make such a racket that you'll not be able to hear anything else other than the noise of the wheel (if you go the cheaper option of the tire on the flywheel not direct drive option) - think 4x4 tires on the highway

3) Think wear and tear, remember km's on the drive train whether indoors or outdoors is the same thing.

Now you've started to think how you would go about over coming the above mentioned and now you realize that if you get yourself another rear wheel with a slick and cassette you'll reduce the noise and you go through slightly less effort every time you want to train. You will then soon realize that by getting yourself a spare wheel will mean that you need to get another 12 speed cassette to fit and then trying to get someone to sell you just the rear wheel is easier said than done.

Going with a direct drive trainer where the rear wheel is not required is an option but they go for R15k upwards.

You will then decide that maybe its just too much effort and you'll scrap the whole idea all together .

Now here's my solution to resolve all the above mentioned and also achieve your original wish of "no mess, no fuss" easy riding get up and go.

Look on the Hub for a 26er in your size (you can also build said bike - I prefer to build) - will be in the region of R3k

Get yourself a Tacx Satori Smart, Flow, Vortex, Bushido or any other brand like the Wahoo then install the 26er onto the trainer and leave your current bike off the trainer.

The Flow is currently going for R 6 499.00 from Cycle Lab: http://cyclelab.com/...-flow-trainer/

So the total spend on your new purchase = R 9 499.00 for a permanent solution and when you're training indoors you don't have to worry about wearing out the drive train on your mtb or the mission of putting it onto and taking it off the trainer

Never though of that solution, nice!

 

I have a 26er standing in the corner waiting to become a gravel bike. Might just try it in the meantime.

 

Geometry is going to be different, but you actually only care about the amount of work you put your legs through, so shouldn't detract if you sit in a slightly different way?

 

Would you go as far as still training on a 26er, even if you actually mostly ride a road bike? You can probably butcher the 26er setup to get closer to your road bike seat position etc?

[RobertWhitehead]

I'm a mountain biker with a 26er on the trainer and a 29er out on the trails. I've been riding this way for over 6 years now and it just makes life so much easier.

 

Normally the more you have to fiddle with a bike / trainer prior to a session to less likely you are to get the maximum effort for the amount of time you have available. 

 

Trainers are amazing if you only have 35-45 min to train, now imagine you have to fiddle for 15 min before every ride, now you only have 25 - 35 min to train  .