MudLark Posted March 11, 2019 Share All true. But wax - at least theoretically - gives one the lowest friction co-coefficient. Reading this thread and the one drop comments, I wonder if I have simply been too liberal with Squirt in the past. The comment about oil pumping in and out between pin and roller is correct - but does that not also cause it to suck dirt in? Anyway, I'd rather replace my chain occasionally than deal with a very mucky motor oil chain all the time. Personal choice only. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk love2fly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDL Posted March 11, 2019 Share After reading this many years ago. I use engine oil on my chains. The theory is sound. Wax just falls off and clogs the jockey wheels. Of course there will be counter arguments but a liquid that flows can get to places a sticky wax can't. New leftover oil from an engine oil service is what I use. I jetwash the chain and drivetrain at most after 2 rides. Even after a dusty mtb ride, the chain has lube on the inside. Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk100% Best method. Engine oil is beast Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NelAndre Posted March 11, 2019 Share This subject has been debated and beaten to death - "To dry Lube or Not to Dry Lube"Here is the link to an old thread https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/109516-the-great-chaincassettegears-thread/page-1 And here is the white paper written by the great Johan Bormman.Interesting read thanks. Who is Johan Bornman? ChrisF 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissVan Posted March 11, 2019 Share Interesting read thanks. Who is Johan Bornman?Don’t poke a sleeping dog openmind, Sepia, BigDL and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noshow Posted March 11, 2019 Share I looked into this a while ago. Squirt say to thoroughly degrease the chain before use to strip all the shop lube off it and then apply Squirt. You can even buy chains that have had this done already. I'm not sure this is good advice. Smoove also say to degrease regularly with strong degreaser. Also not sure if this is right. Of the chain manufactures KMC say don't degrease ever, as it weakens the chain. So much contradiction. I prefer Squirt, as it's clean, but have concluded that degreasing is not ideal. Leave the shop grease, lube with Squirt, brush/wipe, relube etc. Occasionally wipe with a rag damp with Namgear Charlie. Occasionally pour hot water on it to melt the wax, and the pulley build-up and wipe with a cloth. You can also scrape the build-up,off with a small allen key, it's not really a problem. I haven't a clue really. love2fly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmarc Posted March 11, 2019 Share All true. But wax - at least theoretically - gives one the lowest friction co-coefficient. Reading this thread and the one drop comments, I wonder if I have simply been too liberal with Squirt in the past. The comment about oil pumping in and out between pin and roller is correct - but does that not also cause it to suck dirt in? Anyway, I'd rather replace my chain occasionally than deal with a very mucky motor oil chain all the time. Personal choice only. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk I think too many riders look for that silver bullet - a lube that you never have to clean your chain - Tho bottom line is al these dry lubes and waxes have aboslutly no lubrication capacity, you only achieve this with hydrocarbon oil. Bottom line, lube with oil and clean your drive train properly when it gets dirty. Remove the chainRemove the cassetteRemove the jocky pulleys Clean in re-install Repeat Sepia, BigDL, openmind and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NelAndre Posted March 11, 2019 Share Don’t poke a sleeping dogOk..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted March 11, 2019 Share 100% Best method. Engine oil is beast Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkEngine oil mixed with some chainsaw bar oil to help reduce fling off, works great and way less than the typical R1000/Litre lbs charge for "mtb specific" chain oil.. Sepia and BigDL 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sepia Posted March 11, 2019 Share I think too many riders look for that silver bullet - a lube that you never have to clean your chain - Tho bottom line is al these dry lubes and waxes have aboslutly no lubrication capacity, you only achieve this with hydrocarbon oil. Bottom line, lube with oil and clean your drive train properly when it gets dirty. Remove the chainRemove the cassetteRemove the jocky pulleys Clean in re-install RepeatAh,sense at last. If you do not look after your chain properly, expect to get 3000kms/chain. BigDL 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puncture Kid Posted March 11, 2019 Share Engine oil mixed with some chainsaw bar oil to help reduce fling off, works great and way less than the typical R1000/Litre lbs charge for "mtb specific" chain oil.. what about baard olie.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern Posted March 11, 2019 Share This subject has been debated and beaten to death - "To dry Lube or Not to Dry Lube"Here is the link to an old thread https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/109516-the-great-chaincassettegears-thread/page-1 And here is the white paper written by the great Johan Bormman.The what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern Posted March 11, 2019 Share After reading this many years ago. I use engine oil on my chains. The theory is sound. Wax just falls off and clogs the jockey wheels. Of course there will be counter arguments but a liquid that flows can get to places a sticky wax can't. New leftover oil from an engine oil service is what I use. I jetwash the chain and drivetrain at most after 2 rides. Even after a dusty mtb ride, the chain has lube on the inside. Sent from my LYA-L29 using TapatalkNot that I would use old engine oil, but that the theory of oil vs wax holds true. Oil flows, wax gets displaced. Hence why Squirt doesn't last as long, in my experience, as 'oily' lubes. Sepia 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love2fly Posted March 12, 2019 Share I too believed that wax gets displaced and you need to use an "oil" type lube. I have tried a couple of the "oil" type lubes but met with zero success. Lots of dirt picked up despite wiping down.It seems there is a trade off when you go for a viscous oil you pic up dust and it doesn't seem to penetrate (gets wiped away).Have just switched to Juice Lubes Ceramic and working better than anything else I have tried..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted March 12, 2019 Share What do the pros use ? Granted they may be less worried about longevity than most of us .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twaatie Posted March 12, 2019 Share What do the pros use ? Granted they may be less worried about longevity than most of us ....I doubt they know, only the mechanic does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted March 12, 2019 Share I doubt they know, only the mechanic does Now if only we could find out what their machanics use ..... Let's make no mistake bout this .... "best" is a VERY relative term .... best for frictional losses ... best for anti-corrosion ... best for not attracting dust ... best for not throwing oil onto the rider .... (okay, yes, I remember the days of chain oil on my school clothes ...) best for actually protecting and lubing "inside" the chain .... the item that is best for most of these, MAY possibly require more cleaning and more maintenance .... maybe not .... would be interesting to hear from the pros .... or from their mechanics .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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