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Momsen str . Help needed


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I should have posted the pics here ... .especially seeing as I got ripped apart for my previously poor quality pics taken late at night.

 

Momsen STR (2) SS Build

 

This build has taken far too long to complete, and she is still not 100% done as yet.

 

The frame was a lucky purchase from a hubber.

Niner Rigid fork ex. Chewiabablal

Brakes ex. that Swiss dude .... promised him I would never sell them, and think they are on their 4th bike build now.

Carbon Roval Wheels ex. a fellow commuter

Skinwall Ardents ex. CWC sale

And the rest of the goodies I had lying around from previous builds.

 

I do need to replace the stem with a 60 or 70mm option

She needs new grips

The Giant Dropper needs to be connected to the lever

Rear disc rotor to be fitted. ... but both would ideally need to be replaced with new 180mm rotors.

 

We have only been for a ride in the driveway thanks to COVD-19 Lock Down

 

post-5403-0-56314800-1586102432.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-47796500-1586102467.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-05779100-1586102448.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-69463700-1586102490.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

post-5403-0-05516500-1586102595.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-40296800-1586102549.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-83810200-1586102607.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-27856600-1586102620.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-69442700-1586102640.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-12861300-1586102655.jpeg

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I should have posted the pics here ... .especially seeing as I got ripped apart for my previously poor quality pics taken late at night.

 

Momsen STR (2) SS Build

 

This build has taken far too long to complete, and she is still not 100% done as yet.

 

snip

Hairy one...

this is something i've noticed on alot of people's STR builds and I think it's because they come assembled wrong from the factory. 

As far as I am aware...that little lock nut needs to sit on the outside of the sliding dropout. its purpose (tightened to the frame) is to prevent the bolt from undoing itself and therefor keep the slider from slipping when the stars align.

Also...think about it...you are losing 6-8mm of adjustment with the way you have it on the inside.

 

see attached images of various versions.

post-64325-0-07335900-1586167801_thumb.jpg

post-64325-0-96945300-1586167807_thumb.jpg

post-64325-0-99169000-1586167813_thumb.jpg

post-64325-0-65822100-1586167819_thumb.jpg

post-64325-0-56501300-1586167825_thumb.jpg

post-64325-0-33908700-1586167831_thumb.jpg

post-64325-0-39781100-1586168101_thumb.jpg

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Hairy one...

this is something i've noticed on alot of people's STR builds and I think it's because they come assembled wrong from the factory. 

As far as I am aware...that little lock nut needs to sit on the outside of the sliding dropout. its purpose (tightened to the frame) is to prevent the bolt from undoing itself and therefor keep the slider from slipping when the stars align.

Also...think about it...you are losing 6-8mm of adjustment with the way you have it on the inside.

 

see attached images of various versions.

I was on the outside before, but the problem I found was that seeing at the knurled "nut" is fastened to the threaded rod, when you turn it to make adjustments it tends to turn loose on the thread. So I turned it the other way around and then use the screw head to make final adjustments to the chain tension.

 

It would work better if I can get a lock nut to make sure the adjustment does not go out...though saying that, on my commuter there is no lock nut and she does not see to move out of place.

 

post-5403-0-23026200-1586101187.jpeg

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snip

think the difference with how your commuter is constructed is that the bolt on hub in the sliding dropout eliminates 4 fixing/pivot and therefor moving points (the allan bolts that first have to fix the slider to the frame).

yes your commuters solution is infinitely more simple.

Did you have it right from the start? it probably had a spring between the screw head and the frame?

 

Thats the other solution...basically what a spring washer does....pushes the threads out just enough so that the friction means it wont undo itself.

 

in my head at least you'd have that thumb screw with a grub screw in it so you can fix it in place after you are done setting it up. something resembling this:

 

Anyhow. looks cool. that was the best colorway in those frames for me.

post-64325-0-94841700-1586170291_thumb.jpg

post-64325-0-58314700-1586170408_thumb.jpg

Edited by morneS555
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think the difference with how your commuter is constructed is that the bolt on hub in the sliding dropout eliminates 4 fixing/pivot and therefor moving points (the allan bolts that first have to fix the slider to the frame).

yes your commuters solution is infinitely more simple.

Did you have it right from the start? it probably had a spring between the screw head and the frame?

 

Thats the other solution...basically what a spring washer does....pushes the threads out just enough so that the friction means it wont undo itself.

 

in my head at least you'd have that thumb screw with a grub screw in it so you can fix it in place after you are done setting it up. something resembling this:

 

Anyhow. looks cool. that was the best colorway in those frames for me.

Will spin it around and fit the springs again .. .will also drop a bit of locktite on the thread to the Nut.

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wow - thanks for sharing. Great build.

 

wow - thanks for sharing. Great build.

 

Thanks for selling us these nice frames-it rides great.

For me the geometry is spot on. I ride trails of various roughness and lots of gravel roads and feel that I have a nice compromise between stability and responsiveness.

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I should have posted the pics here ... .especially seeing as I got ripped apart for my previously poor quality pics taken late at night.

 

Momsen STR (2) SS Build

 

This build has taken far too long to complete, and she is still not 100% done as yet.

 

The frame was a lucky purchase from a hubber.

Niner Rigid fork ex. Chewiabablal

Brakes ex. that Swiss dude .... promised him I would never sell them, and think they are on their 4th bike build now.

Carbon Roval Wheels ex. a fellow commuter

Skinwall Ardents ex. CWC sale

And the rest of the goodies I had lying around from previous builds.

 

I do need to replace the stem with a 60 or 70mm option

She needs new grips

The Giant Dropper needs to be connected to the lever

Rear disc rotor to be fitted. ... but both would ideally need to be replaced with new 180mm rotors.

 

We have only been for a ride in the driveway thanks to COVD-19 Lock Down

 

post-5403-0-56314800-1586102432.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-47796500-1586102467.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-05779100-1586102448.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-69463700-1586102490.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

post-5403-0-05516500-1586102595.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-40296800-1586102549.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-83810200-1586102607.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-27856600-1586102620.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-69442700-1586102640.jpeg

 

post-5403-0-12861300-1586102655.jpeg

 

Wow - just wow!!! this bike looks incredible - well done!

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Beautiful build, very droolworthy...

 

One question, perhaps to Mr Momsen, where can I get a slider with a hanger like that ?

post-50-0-26882700-1586242129_thumb.jpg

Edited by eddy
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Beautiful build, very droolworthy...

 

One question, perhaps to Mr Momsen, where can I get a slider with a hanger like that ?

https://www.bikefabsupply.com

 

EDIT: look under steel frame parts - rear dropouts

 

bought my frame dropouts here since the frame manufacturer told me some BS story about not having any in stock etc. a lot of these parts are catalogue parts. A lot of frames share them.

Andrew is a super nice guy too. I used aramex and it was hassle free. 

Edited by morneS555
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Beautiful build, very droolworthy...

 

One question, perhaps to Mr Momsen, where can I get a slider with a hanger like that ?

 

sorry - those are purchased via Tange and are welded etc at our frame vendor in Taiwan. So we don't have any stock on this side. as mentioned above, they are available in the US etc from some of the smaller frame builders - but price with the Rand is kinda scary at the moment ... 

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Will spin it around and fit the springs again .. .will also drop a bit of locktite on the thread to the Nut.

screws flipped, locktite applied.

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