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Geometry question 140 to 160 travel


Dexter-morgan

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Good day all hubbers, I am thinking of getting a new suspension fork for my Scott Genius, currently it has 140 travel (Rock shox Sector), the fork I am looking at has 160mm Travel(Rock shox PIKE), I heard that it will screw up the geometry and handing of the bike? Your opinions please, Should I just spend the extra cash and get the 140mm Air-shaft?

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I have fitted 10-20mm more travel to my bikes in the past some with great outcome and some it did not make any noticeable difference. Adding 20mm changes h/a by about a degree and lifts bottom bracket 10-15mm.

With more travel I usually run a little more sag than the shorter travel so the chances to the geometry of the bike is so tiny.

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I know with some bikes the manufacturer happily allow you to change the fork travel by 10mm either way, but some don't. If your bike is still in warranty, you might void it by adding a fork with 20mm more travel. If that kind of things worries you, you might want to check with the supplier first. 

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I know with some bikes the manufacturer happily allow you to change the fork travel by 10mm either way, but some don't. If your bike is still in warranty, you might void it by adding a fork with 20mm more travel. If that kind of things worries you, you might want to check with the supplier first. 

Bike is a 2015 model so warranty is long gone, also NON-boost spacing. 

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A simple way to check it would be to just put a 20mm spacer of some sort under your front wheel (the sort you get with indoor trainers work well).  This won't be exact but should show you to some extent what would happen to the head tube angle and BB height.  Better still, give it a bit of pedal while propped up like this to feel what it does to your own weight on the bike.  You might find that you would need to move the seat slightly forward (to reduce the effective seat tube angle) and add stem length to still sit in the optimum position. 

 

Besides the above, the extra 20mm should make for a lot of extra fun on the trails!

Edited by myth125
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I had one of those Scott genius’s,at least I think it’s the same bike. And I wouldn’t of slapped a 160mm travel fork on the bike I had. I would spring for the air fork and keep it as you already have it and clearly like it in its current guise .

 

Slacker may not be better in this case.

Edited by Pikey
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My personal opinion - don't screw with the bike's intended geo too much. I've always found 10mm of extra suspension to be my limit. After that I don't enjoy what happens to seat tube angles. But it's personal preference - fit the 160mm, if you like it you like it, if you don't - get a 140mm air shaft - they are luckily not too expensive and easy to swop out. 

 

I know of people that have put an extra 30mm on their forks and they are happy with it. But then again, I need all the help I can get on climbs and that's probably why I don't like slackening a seat tube angle. 

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Ride it and see. If you're battling to keep weight on the front end or if stability suffers, change the spring out.

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I changed my 130mm RS to a 150mm Ribbon Coil on my ST Stumpy and to be honest, I do feel a difference when going up steep hills, but normal flat riding there isn't much difference. The difference you get going downhill is way more apparent than the struggle on the hills.

 

I know the geo isn't the same on your Scott, but I would say go for it! The bike is meant to go down and not up in any case ;)

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I have a SC 5010c, which is a 130mm bike.

 

I built it up from second hand parts and stumbled onto a 130/160 adjustable travel PIKE fork.

 

It does change the head angle and handling, but honestly I ride it on the 160mm setting at least 85% of the time.  The way slack head angle makes it really easy to jump, hop and manual, but when riding long distances or marathon rides I drop it to 130.

 

So in short, it works depending on the type of riding you mostly do.

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