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Converting hardtail to gravel bike


Chris NewbyFraser

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Is there an exiting thread that deals with converting a hardtail into a gravel road machine? If not, is there any build guidance and affordable part selection that would help me?

 

I plan to keep the shocks and good wheelset but will obviously need the drop bars and brake/gear levers. Can I use the existing M6000 brake calipers with gravel bike brake levers?

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Is there an exiting thread that deals with converting a hardtail into a gravel road machine? If not, is there any build guidance and affordable part selection that would help me?

 

I plan to keep the shocks and good wheelset but will obviously need the drop bars and brake/gear levers. Can I use the existing M6000 brake calipers with gravel bike brake levers?

123076-how-to-build-a-monstercross-bike-101

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Is there an exiting thread that deals with converting a hardtail into a gravel road machine? If not, is there any build guidance and affordable part selection that would help me?

 

I plan to keep the shocks and good wheelset but will obviously need the drop bars and brake/gear levers. Can I use the existing M6000 brake calipers with gravel bike brake levers?

 

yes - I have mixed those levers and calipers before. should be fine.

 

Consider swapping out that fork for something lighter and rigid. And don't think you have to aim for carbon everywhere - alu bars, seatpost etc. will give you a more forgiving ride.

 

Also being in Gauteng I'd go for 2x11 rather than a 1x setup. Road pedals. 

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Is there an exiting thread that deals with converting a hardtail into a gravel road machine? If not, is there any build guidance and affordable part selection that would help me?

 

I plan to keep the shocks and good wheelset but will obviously need the drop bars and brake/gear levers. Can I use the existing M6000 brake calipers with gravel bike brake levers?

a simple and cheaper option is to get some Jones bars.  That way you get use out of your groupset as it - they look fantastically cool and work really well - Gravel tires and you're good to go - as you get a feel what what you're enjoying you can transistion to rigid forks and drop bars if you feel it's necessary - this keeps it pretty cost effective as a good start

Just my opionion, this is what I'd do - in fact this is how I started - maybe just to keep it fresh get a new paint job on your frame if you want that new bike feel

 

Have fun

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Just keep in mind that road shifters dont work with mtb derailleur as they have different cable indexing.

But you can, ahem, Maaknplan, and get a tanpan shift interface that'll sort it.

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Just keep in mind that road shifters dont work with mtb derailleur as they have different cable indexing.

The monstercross build thread also says you can use 10speed road shifters with a 9speed mtb rear derailleur, that is how I am going to be setting my bike up, all I need is a fork and wheels, then I will hopefully be able to get it together for testing and then a strip down, paint and rebuild if all works as I am hoping

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100%. Been using that set-up for years...no problem.

 

The monstercross build thread also says you can use 10speed road shifters with a 9speed mtb rear derailleur, that is how I am going to be setting my bike up, all I need is a fork and wheels, then I will hopefully be able to get it together for testing and then a strip down, paint and rebuild if all works as I am hoping

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Just keep in mind that road shifters dont work with mtb derailleur as they have different cable indexing.

Rear mech's works with either STI of Rapid Fire MTB type shifters. Front mech's have different indexing ratio's between road and MTB.

Also remember that road FD's are bottom pull while your older MTB FD's are top pull. You might have to make this work. This is typically the issue the guys with 1st generation cyclocross bikes had to work around by installing a small pulley wheel below the FD in order to convert a top pull frame to accommodate a bottom pull FD. Works like a charm. I am using the exact same solution on my 94 Gary Fisher with road STi's.

You can have new cable stops etc welded onto your frame to reroute FD cabling from top to bottom to do away with the pulley design, but I opted to steer clear of those options. Welding does'nt go down well on Alloy or Carbon frames :wacko:

 

Nice project you got yourself :thumbup:

 

Keep it real I say ....................... without the slice of lime.

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The monstercross build thread also says you can use 10speed road shifters with a 9speed mtb rear derailleur, that is how I am going to be setting my bike up, all I need is a fork and wheels, then I will hopefully be able to get it together for testing and then a strip down, paint and rebuild if all works as I am hoping

 

Exactly what I did.

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Interesting concept. Got keen just now until a negative I saw with this is; if you are bombing down a long gravel hill, using the stretched aero position on these bars, it is impossible to react to harsh bumps or access the brake. Also, the aero hand position has the hands close together so there is reduced leverage if the rider hits sand etc. Gravel bars are will have to be the way to go for me

a simple and cheaper option is to get some Jones bars.  That way you get use out of your groupset as it - they look fantastically cool and work really well - Gravel tires and you're good to go - as you get a feel what what you're enjoying you can transistion to rigid forks and drop bars if you feel it's necessary - this keeps it pretty cost effective as a good start

Just my opionion, this is what I'd do - in fact this is how I started - maybe just to keep it fresh get a new paint job on your frame if you want that new bike feel

 

Have fun

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Would you guys swap out the rims as well?

 

I have a set of hopes pro 4's with stans crest rims, to do a gravel conversion could I keep the stans rims and put on gravel tyres or maybe swap for gravel rims?

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Would you guys swap out the rims as well?

 

I have a set of hopes pro 4's with stans crest rims, to do a gravel conversion could I keep the stans rims and put on gravel tyres or maybe swap for gravel rims?

 

Crests are for all intents and purposes gravel rims. Just put on a set of gravel tyres and you are good to go. 

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Interesting concept. Got keen just now until a negative I saw with this is; if you are bombing down a long gravel hill, using the stretched aero position on these bars, it is impossible to react to harsh bumps or access the brake. Also, the aero hand position has the hands close together so there is reduced leverage if the rider hits sand etc. Gravel bars are will have to be the way to go for me[/quote

 

 

Don’t think the aero position is for bombing down hills - more like a position option for long rides

 

I can’t see the brakes being any less accessible vs drop bars

 

That said, I’ve tried both and use dropbars

 

The current most qualified gravel bike rider on the hub uses flat mtb bars and a rigid fork

 

It’s your bike and your preference and will be cool any way you go - keep us posted

Edited by Wayne pudding Mol
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