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chainring upgrade (mtb)


Bitsy

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Hello hubbers,

 

I am on a 30t chainring and upgrading to a 32t. Do I need to change the chain to accommodate the slight increase?

Drivetrain is a Sram GX (30t up front and 52t cassette).

 

Drivetrain has <5% wear....so hoping I don't have to.

 

I hardly use the 52 in the rear....but it good to know u have it just in case : )

 

thanks.

 

 

 

 

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Recently went from a 32T to a 34T up front, and I did not need to change the chain length, OD of the two chainrings was negligible in difference(5-6mm difference).

Theoretically you should not have to change the chain.
Provided your chain was the correct length to start with?

Just my experience, but am sure some of the more experienced users will be able to advise properly.

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I went from 30T to 32T and found I was still spinning out. I then changed to 34T oval and I find the range is much better..............something to consider !

Edited by coppi
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Theoretically yes, you should change it. Practically it's unlikely to make a difference unless your chain was already a bit short on the old setup. 

Exactly, download the manual for your rear derailer, it should tell you how many links should overlap when you put the chain around your chainring and biggest cog (without going through the derailer), you'll have your answer

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34 is a minimum for me. If you hardly touch the 52 rear, then a 36 may even be an option. I love my 36 matchrd with a 10/52.

You probably will need a new chain but if deciding on ring size and plan to experiment then i certainly would not cut a new chain to length on round one.

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I have a 32t with a 10-50 cassette GX setup and it is perfect for me. I have not found myself spinning out on any MTB ride. Road yes, but who cares.

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34 is a minimum for me. If you hardly touch the 52 rear, then a 36 may even be an option. I love my 36 matchrd with a 10/52.

You probably will need a new chain but if deciding on ring size and plan to experiment then i certainly would not cut a new chain to length on round one.

Not all frames accommodate a 36T so make sure to check that beforehand

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I have a 32t with a 10-50 cassette GX setup and it is perfect for me. I have not found myself spinning out on any MTB ride. Road yes, but who cares.

 

Nice post Wimmas.

 

And THIS is the key bit .... do "YOU" spin out, on "your rides" ?

 

 

For each of us the answer will differ, with a wide range of gearing.

 

 

Granny gear .... how strong are your legs, where do you ride ?  Some climb more in 5km than others climb in a 100km ride .... getting the granny right for YOUR LEGS, and your trails is important for your riding.

 

 

Spinning out .... few people actually spin out on trails.  The fun starts when cycling to and from the trails .... how fast do you really want to do this ?  Technically I "spin out" at about 40 to 45km/h .... but frankly that is not an issue for me.  Others may want a higher top end, which inevitable reduces the granny - which may or may not be an issue, depending on their legs and their climbs ....

 

 

People really need to note the gear ratios that work for them (for some it is spinning out, for others the need for a granny), on their rides.  Then it becomes easy to select the next setup.   :thumbup:

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Hello hubbers,

 

I am on a 30t chainring and upgrading to a 32t. Do I need to change the chain to accommodate the slight increase?

Drivetrain is a Sram GX (30t up front and 52t cassette).

 

Drivetrain has <5% wear....so hoping I don't have to.

 

I hardly use the 52 in the rear....but it good to know u have it just in case : )

 

thanks.

In theory = yes

 

But there are a few variables to consider

1. Hard tail

You could get away it

 

2. Fullsus

This is where you can do damage.

It depends on what RD you have 

Older RD's had / have a mechanical stop. If the chain was on the shorter side and now you put a 2T bigger ring your RD could get jammed against that stop when your suspension is at bottom. If this happens it is new RD time

Some bikes does this more than others so the it also depends bike to bike

 

GOOD NEWS

I have done this for me and others.

Going 2T bigger = you need one outer and one inner to get the correct length again.

 

Bike shops will have pieces of chain laying around, get a small piece from them and then add one quick link and one inner.

 

Break the chain at the blue arrow and use the quick link on your bike with that black (red circle) and another quick link to the rest of the chain.

 

So now you have a current chain, that end in a current quick link, NOW inner link attached to that then another quick link

 

post-31289-0-06332000-1612337392_thumb.png

post-31289-0-94894300-1612338764_thumb.png

Edited by Quagga
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Nice post Wimmas.

 

And THIS is the key bit .... do "YOU" spin out, on "your rides" ?

 

 

For each of us the answer will differ, with a wide range of gearing.

 

 

Granny gear .... how strong are your legs, where do you ride ?  Some climb more in 5km than others climb in a 100km ride .... getting the granny right for YOUR LEGS, and your trails is important for your riding.

 

 

Spinning out .... few people actually spin out on trails.  The fun starts when cycling to and from the trails .... how fast do you really want to do this ?  Technically I "spin out" at about 40 to 45km/h .... but frankly that is not an issue for me.  Others may want a higher top end, which inevitable reduces the granny - which may or may not be an issue, depending on their legs and their climbs ....

 

 

People really need to note the gear ratios that work for them (for some it is spinning out, for others the need for a granny), on their rides.  Then it becomes easy to select the next setup.   :thumbup:

Well said sir

 

I can not understand when people recomment a gearing to someone else when they do not know where the person rides. What inclines, distance, how much per week etc etc

 

In the Cape "spining out" is much less of a concern that being able to up a 10-27% incline.

 

I often see people from JHB posting that 34 or 36 is the go to ring. 

Would love to see them climb the cement road on Conties that is loose, rutted at first avg 15% then cement at 27% in a 36T (yes the pros do it)

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snip

 

Would love to see them climb the cement road on Conties that is loose, rutted at first avg 15% then cement at 27% in a 36T (yes the pros do it)

 

what!?! people actually ride that incline?

 

I thought it was a mandatory portage section...

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If you're spinning out on a MTB its because you're using it wrong. You need a road bike with big rings up front. MTB's want to be in places where spinning out is not an option.

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what!?! people actually ride that incline?

 

I thought it was a mandatory portage section...

I have seen that being done, but will stop them from now on.

Since I have this new info. 

 

"get off and walk like me, this is mandatory portage Why else do you think I am walking?"

:whistling:  :whistling:  :whistling:

Edited by Quagga
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Not related - Thread Hijack

Snip --
 

Would love to see them climb the cement road on Conties that is loose, rutted at first avg 15% then cement at 27% in a 36T (yes the pros do it)

Okay, so you use the cement road up?
Thought the quarry up and around was the correct way...
 

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I have seen that being done, but will stop them from now on.

Since I have this new info. 

 

"get off and walk like me, this is mandatory portage Why else do you think I am walking?"

:whistling:  :whistling:  :whistling:

 

Robbie se gat .... daai help-my-trap is te dem swaer om daar op te stap ....  trap sal ek trap ...  :whistling:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saterdag oggend al drie ure in die bene gehad toe ek daai klim vat .... selfs met daai help-my-trap is ek diep in die rooi in daar op .....

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