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6 questions; not a newbie, rather an uninformed RETURNING old-tech cyclist!


Zebra

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Bike: Specialized 2015 Epic Carbon Comp, spec as ex factory, where unusually they mixed SRAM and Shimano in the specs!

 

Questions:

 

1. Commuting in the week, just bought very nice Easton 70 rims, to fit slicks to, to save my off-road rubber on a 60km commute - should I keep these near-new Easton 70’s for on-road work, and my ROVALS for off-road, or REVERSE that logic?

 

2. I need a new cluster for my ROVALS in any case, and then another new cluster for the just-acquired Easton 70’s: am spinning out with the 11-tooth on my 10-speed cluster; can I buyTWO MATCHING 11-speed clusters for 2x 10-speed microspline hubs, AND then get the 10-tooth I really need?

 

3. What is the purpose of the CLUTCH on my existing Shimano XT Derailleur, and how do I know which length it is?

 

4. I run MAGURA brakes, and MAGURA disks, v. happy with the setup: quite a few 160mm and 180mm disks on offer on the HUB: for my SECOND set of commuting wheels, how do I judge what WILL work, versus what will NOT work, to save trial-and-error?

 

5. Tubed versus tubeless; my ROVALS are tubeless, and I run tubeless tires on then, no problem there...

The Easton70’s are tubeless, with tubeless (MTB) tires on, which I wish to exchange for decent-width slicks; TUBELSS slicks seem very pricyAND wear quickly (so I have heard?); CWC has tough, Chinese 29”er slicks for R150 a tire, and this could be WAY more affordable AND durable than keeping these rims tubeless, though then 2 different systems on 1 bike, though I carry both repair systems in any case, what say you guys?

 

6. Taking photos now.....have to learn how to downsize photos on iPad....!

To be continued.....

Chris

Edited by Zebra
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I use the clutch when its very muddy and I start getting chain suck, sorts that out. Otherwise its off.

 

The R150 tires with tubes are fine. Pump them hard when you use them 4 bar plus.

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I'd use the narrower rims for commuting unless they are significantly lighter in which case you'll need to weigh up weight vs traction on your MTB rides. 

 

I have a cheap set of non-tubeless slicks which I used to use for the CTCT - nothing wrong with going cheaper if you're ok with a bit of a weight penalty - it's what I would do unless you're looking to chase Strava KOMs on your commute. 

 

I have two sets of "bike-tool" kits - one for my MTB and one for road. Lighter than keeping double tools - simply pick the kit you need for your commute or trail ride and its not that much of an additional expense. 

 

You can google the length of GS vs SGS derailleurs. Clutch is used to keep the chain tensioned to prevent chain slap and chain drops when go over the bumpy stuff.   

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I'd use the narrower rims for commuting unless they are significantly lighter in which case you'll need to weigh up weight vs traction on your MTB rides. 

 

I have a cheap set of non-tubeless slicks which I used to use for the CTCT - nothing wrong with going cheaper if you're ok with a bit of a weight penalty - it's what I would do unless you're looking to chase Strava KOMs on your commute. 

 

I have two sets of "bike-tool" kits - one for my MTB and one for road. Lighter than keeping double tools - simply pick the kit you need for your commute or trail ride and its not that much of an additional expense. 

 

You can google the length of GS vs SGS derailleurs. Clutch is used to keep the chain tensioned to prevent chain slap and chain drops when go over the bumpy stuff.

 

Easton rims are 24-spoke, ROVALS rims are 32- spoke....if that changes anything...?
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Zebra only bit I know, in 2016 and 2017 I spent time looking at Spez options .... ALL their bikes in the entry price bracket had the most horrible miss-match of Shimano and SRAM.  My OCD simply could not get past this .....  :wacko:

 

 

Bought another brand, all Shimano ..... later did a 1x upgrade and ended with a Shimano SRAM bastard child of my own making ....  :eek:   :thumbdown:  

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Zebra only bit I know, in 2016 and 2017 I spent time looking at Spez options .... ALL their bikes in the entry price bracket had the most horrible miss-match of Shimano and SRAM. My OCD simply could not get past this ..... :wacko:

 

 

Bought another brand, all Shimano ..... later did a 1x upgrade and ended with a Shimano SRAM bastard child of my own making .... :eek: :thumbdown:

 

Hehe, yes, I don’t much like ‘mix and match’ either!

 

Thanks, all for replies so far..,.

1. Will measure rim WIDTHS today, and revert...

2. Especially keen for help on 11speed cluster on a 10 speed splined free hub...?

 

Thanks!

Chris

Edited by Zebra
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My 2c. I commute every day 30km. I recommend GETTING a new groupset and RIDING the current till it DIES if anything. Go 11-46 with 38t by csixx.

BRAKES should work just fine AS LONG as you don't get THICKER 2.3 mm discs like TRP have on offer. I'd honestly ride a SECOND pair of Mtb TUBLESS tyres with a VERY fast ROLLING tread PATTERN. The southafrican roads are OFTEN more treacherously littered with sharp OBJECTS than most trails.

I've tried it for myself and slicks just aren't worth the extra zip. Also. Having the option to take a shortcut deur 'n parkie is just fab.

The CLUTCH is to prevent chainslap and the chain coming off by THROWNG a loop of chain from REVERSE direction over the CHAINRING.

LEAVE it off for commute and put it ON for trails.

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You can’t put a cassette with a 10t smallest cog on that freehub.

 

If you’re spinning out you need bigger chainring’s or pedal faster.

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Put fast rolling Gravel Tyres on for commuting. Tubeless - no punctures and can jump pavements.

Thank you, never thought of this. - appreciated...

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Hehe, yes, I don’t much like ‘mix and match’ either!

 

Thanks, all for replies so far..,.

1. Will measure rim WIDTHS today, and revert...

2. Especially keen for help on 11speed cluster on a 10 speed splined free hub...?

 

Thanks!

Chris

 

Maritz's current bike was bought as a 1x9

 

Replaced only the following:

- longer derailure

- 11 speed cassette

- 11 speed shifter

 

 

Fits perfectly on the standard Shimano freehub.  Think it took about 30 minutes to swop out all the parts, including setting up the gear indexing.

 

 

As Noshow said, smaller gear would be an 11-tooth, staying with the standard hub.

 

 

It becomes a totally different job fitting a 10-tooth .... new hub, to fit the new freehub for the smaller gear, wheel rebuild .... just cheaper and easier to go for the next size up on the front.

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Bump - quite a FEW unanswered questions; if you could read and chime in, it would REALLY help, thanks for comments thus far!

 

Cheers

Chris

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Bump - quite a FEW unanswered questions; if you could read and chime in, it would REALLY help, thanks for comments thus far!

 

Cheers

Chris

1. - likely more personal preference, everyone will give a different answer

 

2. Microspline is designed around the new Shimano 12 speed, so unless you want to upgrade everything, its probably not viable. If you spinning out, run a bigger chainring upfront instead, especially if you have a x2 setup, so you wont loose out on the granny gearing offroad.

 

3. Clutch stops the chain slapping around, turn it on, leave it there, turn it off when removing wheels.

 

4. Most disc should work with your setup, as long as the 2 wheel sets have the same discs install. Most discs are the same thickness. TRP are one of the few that use a thicker disc one a couple of their range.

 

5. Tubed should be just fine on a commuter. I carry a spare tube, patches and plugs even when I do have tubeless setup.

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