Mtb wheel bearings

[Cheese]

I have a 29er with Cup & cone entry level wheel bearings.

Would it be beneficial(easier ride/less friction) if I upgrade to better bearings?

[BaGearA]

Cup and cone bearings can't really be improved 

 

 

 

friction wise , they're very close to cartridge bearings imo 

 

 

just keep a careful eye on maintenance and they should give good life 

 

 

 

if you're deadset on better bearings you're looking at new hubs and two wheelbuilds at the very least 

[Rock Guy]

I have a 29er with Cup & cone entry level wheel bearings.

Would it be beneficial(easier ride/less friction) if I upgrade to better bearings?

Marginal gains.

 

If you are having a difficult time keeping your hard earned dollars in your pocket, rather buy hubs based on reliability / points of engagement / weight / looks / sound.

 

edit: (although at this point in time you probably don't have many options to choose from due to massive global supply issues)

Edited April 2, 2021 by Rock Guy

[Alouette3]

The performance gain won't be noticeable and as said above, its not as simple as replacing the bearings, you would need complete new hubs, requiring rebuilding the wheel. In which case replacing  the rim would likely be a bigger gain.

 

Look after the cup and cones, service regularly and they should last a very long time.

Fairly easy job to service just messy.

[porqui]

Regular service and pack with marine grease (Everon) preferably especially the rear hub.

 

Make sure you eliminate as much if not all play when you set the cones and lock them. 

Edited April 2, 2021 by porqui

[Cheese]

Thanks, I assumed Hubs to be replaced, but was wondering about the gains if I have new Hubs, but sound like it is not much. 

I guess it can only make you stronger if you have to pedal a bit harder.

[BaGearA]

Thanks, I assumed Hubs to be replaced, but was wondering about the gains if I have new Hubs, but sound like it is not much.

I guess it can only make you stronger if you have to pedal a bit harder.

 

Crhis king might roll slightly better, but it's just anecdotal from what I've seen same with i9 but they cost a bunch

 

Hope is much more affordable and rools very good as well but they also come with nuke proof reliability at a far more achievable price for most people

[MudLark]

How a hub rolls is primarily dependant upon bearing quality. And I promise you, there's no cyclist in the world who can tell the difference between SKS and Timken. And more Tour De Frances have been won on cone bearings than cartridge bearings.

[David Marshall]

If your hub bearings are causing friction the chances are that at least the balls and most likely the cones are screwed. Here lies the rub because the original balls/cones are not well supported by the local agents so when you send your bike in for service you end up with Chinese ones that fit - just about.  Usually the seals are not compatible so are left off.

 

On a real entry level wheel it is not a problem because that is probably what they started with anyway but it is sad to see a quality hub butchered like this.

 

 

It is important to service your wheels well before there is any sign of friction so you need a strict routine. 

 

What most cyclists don't know is that balls are graded.  G100 balls sell for around R15 per 100 (100 being the maximum size of a defect on the ball in microns).  G25 are around R1-50 each - this is the quality in most mid level bicycle hubs and G5 at R3-50 ea (Dura Ace etc).  No prize for guessing which you will end up with after a service!

 

Cup and cone hubs are technically excellent for bicycles, which is why the likes of Shimano and Campy have stuck with them for so long BUT I always recommend cartridge bearing hubs because of the service problems experienced with the cup and cone type.  

 

Different if you service your own wheels and do it regularly.  I have a DA 7700 hub that has run for many years and is still as smooth as the day I built the wheel.