Scott roy Posted April 9, 2021 Share mmm. The easiest might be to lose a little more weight if possible. Found it to make the biggest difference on the bike.I already have. It’s sitting at just over 9kg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott roy Posted April 9, 2021 Share What is your overall fitness like at this moment? Do you think that you will improve on it? If so, I'd stick with the 36, but if you are really struggling then I would go down to a 34 in the interim whilst you build up your fitness, and then switch back to the 36 once you're stronger. For reference, I ride a 34:34 (or 36:36 I don't recall) ratio on my gravel bike all around PTA-East with no real issues.I’m fairly fit I have no trouble with group rides and such but when I’m training the guys who I train with who are seriously tough I get behind on the climbs and then have to really put the hammer down to catch up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehosefat Posted April 9, 2021 Share From my chats about oval rings at LBS it seems that a 34t oval is (apparently) equivalent to a 36t round ring...I dunno for sure. Anyone know if this is indeed so?Maybe in terms of feel but a 34t ring will have the same cadence at the same speed regardless of whether it's round or oval so if you are spinning out, shifting to an oval won't make a difference. It might help a bit on the climbs because of the power distribution around the pedal stroke though. To answer the OP though, go 34t and ride better downhills. If you are doing 50kph and still pedaling the you are basically riding down a road... do a proper trail and you won't be sitting down and pedaling regardless of the speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lechatnoir Posted April 9, 2021 Share mmm. The easiest might be to lose a little more weight if possible. Found it to make the biggest difference on the bike. that's a double-edged sword, but in a good way.... the effort i spent getting lighter made me stronger, so it was a win-win in power-to-weight, though still woefully pathetic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted April 9, 2021 Share I already have. It’s sitting at just over 9kgHe meant weight off your body, not your bike. RocknRolla 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nico van Loggerenberg Posted April 9, 2021 Share Standard XT 2x10 setup even with a Praxis wide range cassette doesn't really give you much more range than a SRAM 10-50/500% cassette. Unless my maths is wrong, a 2x12 setup gives you well over 600% range, if that's really what this is about (which I suspect it's not) MudLark and ChrisF 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spafsack Posted April 9, 2021 Share As Mud said: If only... someone invented a kind of chainring that had two different sizes.. maybe with a device to switch between them? This is dam funny! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted April 9, 2021 Share Unless my maths is wrong, a 2x12 setup gives you well over 600% range, if that's really what this is about (which I suspect it's not) Yes but most of them are 28-34 's afaik Something like 30 - 38 might work for the OP but won't since we know his bike is 1x exclusive 36 on 10-52 is the best option here, personally I'd just stop pedaling after 45kph cause what are you winning really no decent here is so long that you're going to win 15 seconds by pedaling down the slope. And even then 15 seconds.. ChrisF and dasilvarsa 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtr1 Posted April 9, 2021 Share I went from 2x10 to 1x12. I had a 38 front then. I have a 34 front ring and 10-50 cassette now. I worked out all the ratios. With a 34 front my lightest gear is slightly lighter than I had and heaviest much the same. If I go 36 then I end up slightly heavier top gear and a bit heavier on the lightest. But the differences were marginal. I have never really spun out, and if I get to that, then the downhill is enough to freewheel. (Supertuck if you want) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nico van Loggerenberg Posted April 9, 2021 Share I went from 2x10 to 1x12. I had a 38 front then. I have a 34 front ring and 10-50 cassette now. I worked out all the ratios. With a 34 front my lightest gear is slightly lighter than I had and heaviest much the same. If I go 36 then I end up slightly heavier top gear and a bit heavier on the lightest. But the differences were marginal. I have never really spun out, and if I get to that, then the downhill is enough to freewheel. (Supertuck if you want) only if it's not a Canyon... gtr1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peetwindhoek Posted April 9, 2021 Share Get a 38T and pair it with an e*13 9-50T. Spinning out where exactly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eala Posted April 9, 2021 Share I live in Pretoria and ride 34 oval on full sus bike and 36 round on hardtail .If i struggle on the hardtail it is easier to stand and pedal ,but i find this works great in all riding conditions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertWhitehead Posted April 9, 2021 Share Dude, look me up, I am also in the area, I ride 34T oval in the front with a 11 speed at the back. My opinion, and I know the majority of the areas you're currently riding: You're too heavy in the front and too light in the back. If you hit a climb and you go to the 50T at the back before at least 60-70% up any climb then you're climbing approach is incorrect. Again, this is my opinion: But the 50T is only there to ensure you can stay on the bike and do not need to get off and push. Do a test for yourself and measure everything on a climb, stuff like: CadenceSpeedDuration on the climb and or segment time. Do this in both the 50T and lets say 3-4 from the top. Now once you crunch some numbers and look at Strava you will notice that you're actually faster in 3-4 from the top (cassette) than you are in the 50T. I’m from Pretoria. I ride out in zwavelspoort side eala, The Ouzo and ChrisF 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott roy Posted April 9, 2021 Share Dude, look me up, I am also in the area, I ride 34T oval in the front with a 11 speed at the back. My opinion, and I know the majority of the areas you're currently riding: You're too heavy in the front and too light in the back. If you hit a climb and you go to the 50T at the back before at least 60-70% up any climb then you're climbing approach is incorrect. Again, this is my opinion: But the 50T is only there to ensure you can stay on the bike and do not need to get off and push. Do a test for yourself and measure everything on a climb, stuff like: CadenceSpeedDuration on the climb and or segment time.Do this in both the 50T and lets say 3-4 from the top. Now once you crunch some numbers and look at Strava you will notice that you're actually faster in 3-4 from the top (cassette) than you are in the 50T.I generally only go to the 50t on very steep gravel climbs and normally only above half way up RobertWhitehead 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudLark Posted April 9, 2021 Share Ja. And then there's me. Old and a bit overweight. With a 32 in the front and a 10-50 on the back. But I can climb 22% and more gradient with it, no worries - and often do too. When a lot of other folk are walking. And I only max out a bit over 70km/h (yup, I can also spin like crazy when I need to). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted April 9, 2021 Share KCNC and maybe Sunrace too make a 9-52. But I am not sure what derailleur would accommodate that. avoid at all costs. The KCNC is a race day only cassette. Its made of a special kind of cheese MudLark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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