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Absa Cape Epic 2021 thread


Shebeen

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20 minutes ago, Sid the Sloth said:

The difference between the 10t and 11t is quite impressive. Running a 38 11 is similar to a 34-10 (3.45 vs 3.4). Running a 36-10 gives you almost the same ratio as a 40-11. I have found the move from 11 to 10 on my gravel bike pretty impressive, and I was considering moving up a chainring size before but now I am pretty happy. 

Now don't get me started on the drivetrain inefficiencies of running a smaller front ring or a smaller cog on the back... 

 

 

forget about the drivetrain inefficiencies. That's so small its only noticeable to snake oil salespersons

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1 minute ago, DieselnDust said:

 

 

forget about the drivetrain inefficiencies. That's so small its only noticeable to snake oil salespersons

Well if they are running 55t + chainrings in TT's partly to stay in the middle of the cassette, and people put on OSPW, wrapping your chain around a 10t and having a small front ring does not sound like the optimal combo. You are right though it is probably only milliwatts. 

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22 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:

Its more the straightness of the chain were there is additional friction losses but I think unless you are addressesing all other friction losses the chain wrap over a 10 is nanonwatts and a watt is a small number

 

41 minutes ago, Sid the Sloth said:

Well if they are running 55t + chainrings in TT's partly to stay in the middle of the cassette, and people put on OSPW, wrapping your chain around a 10t and having a small front ring does not sound like the optimal combo. You are right though it is probably only milliwatts. 

Believe it or not; that 1w over 4hrs is a fairly big loss of time when calculated and power. 
1 of the reasons we had Tadej run a junior cassette at the Tour TT last year to eliminate any cross chaining 

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3 minutes ago, J Wakefield said:

 

Believe it or not; that 1w over 4hrs is a fairly big loss of time when calculated and power. 
1 of the reasons we had Tadej run a junior cassette at the Tour TT last year to eliminate any cross chaining 

That reminds me I should probably fix my rubbing brake before Sunday lol

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11 minutes ago, J Wakefield said:

 

Believe it or not; that 1w over 4hrs is a fairly big loss of time when calculated and power. 
1 of the reasons we had Tadej run a junior cassette at the Tour TT last year to eliminate any cross chaining 

It’s one of the reasons I select my MTB chainring more to keep the chain as straight as possible in the gears I need on the flats and rolling hills than big steep climbs or descents. 
On a road bike I apply the same. What gears are used mostly so what chain rings allow that while keeping the chain as straight as possible most of the time 

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1 hour ago, Sid the Sloth said:

The difference between the 10t and 11t is quite impressive. Running a 38 11 is similar to a 34-10 (3.45 vs 3.4). Running a 36-10 gives you almost the same ratio as a 40-11. I have found the move from 11 to 10 on my gravel bike pretty impressive, and I was considering moving up a chainring size before but now I am pretty happy. 

Now don't get me started on the drivetrain inefficiencies of running a smaller front ring or a smaller cog on the back... 

Get an E-13 cassette and you can rock a 9t on the cassette :P

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8 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:

It’s one of the reasons I select my MTB chainring more to keep the chain as straight as possible in the gears I need on the flats and rolling hills than big steep climbs or descents. 
On a road bike I apply the same. What gears are used mostly so what chain rings allow that while keeping the chain as straight as possible most of the time 

Best in line chain / chainring / cog = SS :P

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