David Dore

Thanks for the replies. I find building as best to dish saves time as otherwise am constantly removing wheel to check. The frustration is that the act of removing the wheel to check dish then alters calibration upon re-installment, thus wasting more time trying to gauge which way and by how much to compensate in order to get alignment. I also build to the high-tension side then drag the rim across….. Have now purchased a DTS jig which is slower to set up, but is much more solid, and gives reliable repeatable results. Agree with the comments about mass production- must admit I like quality and think that also reflects in work undertaken. 🙂

Hi. Has anyone else had problems with the Park Tool wheel-jig constantly drifting out of calibration whilst building? Have used several of these machines and it seems very hit-and -miss as to whether a good reliable one is achievable. Have taken the jig down to the local machine-shop, they were less than impressed with the poor fit/quality of the moving threads and charged a large percentage of the original total cost in order for improvement. This has made a difference but far from eradicated the problem. Have even made an upscale version of the Park calibration tool to a general mtb rear hub dimension coupled with a 35mm ‘rim’ as changing between road-wheels and mtb further upsets the machine. All/any replies would be appreciated. Cheers dd