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Hardtailrider

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Everything posted by Hardtailrider

  1. It's a QR and not the team version with the hefty axle so definitely 100mm but thanks for suggestion.
  2. Hi Hubbers I've read that it's possible to vary the stroke of some non-U-turn RS forks between 80, 100, and 120mm by dismantling the forks and altering/removing internal spacers. Having looked at the RS manuals on the SRAM website I'm still not sure whether this is applicable to my specific forks, which currently have 100mm. Does anyone know whether it's actually possible to increase the stroke of my model to 120mm? And, yes, I know I've just let myself in for comments about strokes and models...
  3. Take a look at the Darwin Awards: 'The Darwin Awards honor Charles Darwin by commemorating those who yield to natural selection and "remove" themselves from the gene pool...thereby ensuring that the next generation is smarter by one' http://www.darwinawards.com/
  4. There are people willing to pay a lot of money for that sort of thing...
  5. For what it's worth, I'm running Avid Juicy 5 brakes and the front rotor (with sintered pads) also screams like a banshee but only when it gets wet. Doesn't seem to affect performance though. Apparently, this is a known "flaw" of the Juicy brakes when using sintered pads. Bottom line is that the problem's not confined to Magura brakes and is more likely to be related to the type of pad
  6. Aaah - take pity on RedSox. The poor soul's clearly pimply, about 13 years old, and needs a dear mum to get from an inner-city safety blanket to anywhere a cassette's actually likely to get dirty. Could do with some remedial work on spelling too... Not sure if any SRAM cassettes other than the PG970 can be dismantled completely. Generally go the brush route with cassette cleaning but found that you can do a much better job if you dismantle it.
  7. Hi All Thought I'd share a little "yay" moment to this forum. Discovered a while back that, after removing a SRAM PG970 cassette using the chainwhip and lockring tools, all but the two smallest cogs of the cassette are held together by a tiny (1.5mm) allen bolt that you can get at on the back of the largest cog. Unscrew and remove the allen bolt, and the cogs all come apart, separated by plastic (nylon?) spacers. You can then scrub them all beautifully clean away from the bike, with no fear of contaminating brake discs, getting crud in bearings etc. etc. Reassembly is easy - just be careful to: (i) Orient the spacers correctly so the hole in each spacer, through which the allen bolt has to pass, lines up correctly (ii) Put the cogs back the right way round i.e. the sides stamped with a little capital M must be on the hub side and the ramped sides of the teeth must be on the outside (iii) Make sure that the spline slots line up correctly - not all of them are the same size so it's easy to check (iv) Not overtighten the allen bolt - very easy to strip the thread and/or mangle the hex After that, it's the usual refitting of the cassette onto the freehub. Good luck!
  8. Only silly question is the one not asked - yes, the hose clamps were loose :-) Solved the problem by slacking off the lever reach-adjustment grubscrew. Tx for responding!
  9. I did remove the grubscrew from the banjo - you can't attach the syringe without doing so - haven't tried slackening the banjo itself though. Avid instructions and instructions elsewhere don't mention needing to do that but certainly something else to try. Thanks for the suggestion!
  10. Tx for reply Tarmac - might resort to opening lever reservoir in desperation
  11. Hi All I'm trying to bleed my Juicy 5 rear brake for the first time, using the proprietary Avid bleed kit. Removed brake pads/clip from caliper, put bleed block into caliper to hold pistons back, and connected the two syringes to caliper and lever as specified in the instructions. Supposedly, you should be able to just squeeze DOT 5.1 fluid through the caliper, via the hose and lever, into the upper syringe. Problem is that the fluid will not shift. No matter how hard I press the caliper syringe's plunger, no fluid movement happens. Have tried pulling on the lever syringe's plunger while while pressing on the caliper syringe's plunger as well. Both plungers slid easily before connecting to the brakes so the problem's not caused by seized plungers. Has anyone had this problem and/or have a solution? Help/suggestions much appreciated!!!
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