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Found 3 results

  1. Hi fellow hubbers, Ok so I recently changed my front rotor to 180mm from 160mm standard rotor using a Shimamo post mount adaptor 160/180 and 180mm rotor by Definitive Bikes (new parts from LBS). Bearing in mind that the 160mm setup worked 110% fine, no air in the system, pads are still good, etc. using BR-M615 Deore brakeset on Titan 27.5 hardtail with Mavic front wheel 15mm bolt thru. Centered the caliper and all seemed good until bedding in the brakes. As you pull the brake lever the brakes will either be solid and work correctly or, depending on where the the pads bite as the rotor rotates, the there will be what I can only called a feeling of the rotor slipping, biting, slipping, biting until it locks up or one stops. (at a higher speed this feels like pulsing or vibration) This is what I've checked so far... Pad spacing/advancement Realigned caliper Checked rotor bolts Cleaned pads and rotor (rotor cleaned with brake cleaner and pads sanded/cleaned using +- 1000grit paper) Swapped rear / front pads (problem persists in front - rear stays smooth and solid) Re-checked pad spacing in relation to rotor 160mm rotor had around half mm of side movement as wheel turned but never slipped, 180mm rotor seems to have same side movement as the wheel turns but just does not bite at certain points in the rotation. Definitive Bikes brand is a lower cost alternative to the higher end products and I have subsequent bought a SM-RT56 Deore rotor which I don't want to install before getting some thoughts/advice.
  2. Just installed a new set of Saint Disc brakes...rear brake is not nearly close to what I was hoping for. The pads needs to bed in...Any quick, clever easy way to bed them...dont have the time or patience to pedal up and down my street...I only want to bom DH and hopefully use my brakes if a Bobbejaan happens to park itself on the track... Cheers
  3. I think disc brakes for road bikes are here to stay so when i recently bought my new CX bike , i went for this option. problem is that in my 30yrs of racing bikes, i have come to trust Campagnolo over other manufacturers, but they do not have a disc brake system. there is a lot of talk and rumours but nothing i trust. i therefore decided to stick to the mechanical set-up with Chorus Ergolevers and use TRP Spyre SLC calipers. It did not work. at all. you grab the levers and pull them all the way to the bars and the bike continued unhindered and no amount of adjustment could fix it. option 1: Campagnolo should bring out a hydraulic setup either late this year or early next year. if they do not want to be left behind. chances are that it will be linked to an electric shifting system which will probably be very expensive. and i do not want electrical shifting because i dont see it as an advantage.option 2: switch to another brand of components. you have a choice between made in Japan or made in China.....no thanksoption 3: change it for a hybrid mechanical/hydro system like SRAM or Hope V-twin. i think this will definitely work but is quite expensive [about R5000] and bulky for what i think should be a medium term fixoption 4: try a cheap fixi swapped the pads for Shimano ones which made them stop a lot better but the feel was still very damped/indirectproblem is that brake cable housings are compressible and when you pull with this such force, a lot of the force ends up compressing the cable housing. so i ordered non-compressible cables from Jagwire and the problem is solved! non-compressible housing is essentially made the same way as shifting cable housing in that the main structure is provided by longitudinal wires with a mesh outside them to keep them from popping out. This as opposed to brake housing which has a helical wire which can be compressed. i now have a set-up that i will gladly keep using until Campag brings out a better solution
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