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Found 6 results

  1. Ok so, I currently have a DT Swiss 350 18t rear hub and I'm looking to upgrade the hub to 54t or buy the Lyne JB02 high engagement hub. Reason for choosing to upgrade is to get that higher engagement and also for that nice zzzz sound (in my opinion). But mostly for the engagement???? I have heard good reviews about both hubs and I'm not sure which option to choose as they both are similar in price. Lyne hub has 2.4 degree engagement compared to DT 6.6 degree engagement and I have heard that the Lyne hub has a lekker sound to it, aswell as the 54t upgrade. Just want to hear some of your thoughts and opinions from people who have ridden or have knowledge about these two options and which option is the better one to choose????
  2. Hi guys, I have a newbie question: My 29er hardtail frame is 135mm x 10mm QR at the rear and I'm wanting to make it stiffer, as with a thru axle. Is my only option to compromise by using a 10mm axle with 135mm spacing that combines the skewer and axle into one unit? For example, the DT Swiss RWS skewer. If so, does anyone know where i could get hold of axles like this or have them made? I would be keen to use one for the front wheel too as my fork is QR. And are there any other options? Axle conversion kits? Thanks!
  3. Hey all, I'm looking to change frame and want to keep all my current components. The new frame, though, has a rear spacing of 142x12 mm while my current rear hub is 135x12 mm. I was wondering if any of you know of a conversion around that can solve my dilemma? It's a Nukeproof Generator rear hub 135x12 (converted from QR)
  4. Good day Forum, Not sure how many people out there sporting an Easton wheel set, that uses the M1 rear hub. I have been experiencing some issues with mine in terms of bearing durability, hub loosening itself etc etc I purchased my wheels (Easton Haven) in July 2013 from CRC, and bearings were replaced at my cost in oct/nov of 2013 In Jan 2014 after 3 months Easton agent replaced the bearings (incl 'upgrade' + shims) as there has been fix released by Easton, that was suppost to prevent bearings to seize and and increase their life expectancy I'm now again sitting with a seized bearing, and the actual hub has untightened itself again. This brings total of new bearings, in under a year, to 3 sets. Release from Easton: http://www.eastoncycling.com/en-gb/road/news/easton-announces-bearing-spacer-upgrade-kit-for-m1-mountain-bike-hubs/ Anybody out there with same issues? Final resolution? Waiting for some feedback, thanks guys!
  5. So on my ride this morning, 2 spokes snapped (one the nipple broke in half), so I headed home with a wobbly wheel. when I took the wheel off to fix the spokes i found my rear axle in 3 parts. I have not been jumping crazy jumps, apart from a few little drops and log jumps. Hub has been trouble free for 2 years, the break is on the drive side, not sure my power output is strong enough to snap an axle. Any ideas why this would happen?
  6. Hi all, As the title states I have no idea how to determine what my rear hub specifications are. My rear hub bearings still spin like new, but there is an off-balance somewhere with the rear wheel area. When I lift the back and step the pedal, the wheel spins well, but the bike rocks up an down slightly when holding it in the air. I tried searching the forum for hub and rear hub but to no avail. Could someone please advice me how to determine my current hub specifications and which of these are important to keep in mind when buying a new hub. I know the hub has the extra part for the disc brake rotor. It says "American Classic" on the hub I haven't counted the spoke-holes as I'm unsure if there are special things that needs to be taken note of. EDIT- added: Its a new tyre with a new slime tube (well, it rocks heavily whether I have the road slicks on or the mtb tyres). A spoke was recently replaced and therefore the whole wheel was trued.
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