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Found 5 results

  1. Looking for a few more opinions / experiences with wider rims on XC specific bikes. I have a 29er hardtail: 2014 ZASKAR 9R ELITE & I've been wanting to upgrade my wheelset for a while now, specifically the width of my rims for more control and less tetchy handling downhill. I'm not riding anything extreme. Mostly jeep track with steep sections and loose gravel. My stock standard wheelset is Jalco XCD22, Double Wall, 32H. I believe the internal rim width is 19mm. I currently run Maxis Ikon 2.2 on the rear & Ardent 2.25 on the front. I've felt the handling benefits of wider rims but don't have enough cash to go for a more trail oriented dual suspension bike right now. So I'm trying to see if I can make some changes to help keep my chin on my face for the time being. That said, my bike isn't designed for wider rims and space is tight, especially on the rear. My LBS told me there isn't really any point in buying, for example, a Stans ZTR Arch wheelset with 25mm inner width because A) it's too tight and B) it's not what the bike is built for. I've attached some pics, which might help. What do you guys think?
  2. Hi there, I'm currently in the market for a new wheelset, obvious choice would be a carbon set, but that is way to expensive. My options are: * Roval Alloy * American Classic Wide Lighting * ZTR Crest / Archex / Flowex American Classic Race Hope you guys can help.
  3. Any suggestions where to go for the best deal on a new Wheelset? ZTR 29r Flow EX/Hope Combo with 15mm Front and 142x12 Rear.
  4. After reading the thread about battling to fit tyres to a crest rim, thought I would make a little how to make a wheel tubeless as well as fit a tyre to a rim that just doesn't want to go on. PLEASE NOTE: I am no specialized bike mechanic, I just like to do most things myself when it comes to bicycle related stuff. What you'll need: 1. Wheel and tyre to be made tubeless. 2. Tubeless sealant 3. Tyre levers (preferably something like the crowbars, as your less likely to break them when fitting a tight bead to a rim) 4. Tubeless Valve 5. Duct Tape (don't buy the cheap stuff, R20 is not worth the 20km walk home) 6. Pen 7. Dish washing liquid 8. Carpet knife or craft knife 9. 0.5 - 1m piece of rope 10. Acetone or ether 11. A few Cloths 12. A few beers and good music (NB!) If your just here to see the tip on how to fit a tight bead, you can skip to step 11 Step 1: Remove the old tyre or tyre to be converted from the rim, also remove any rim tape or strip that may be on the rim. At this point you can use a bit of acetone on a cloth to remove any sticky residue that may be on the rim. I advise rinsing the rim with a hose pipe once done to remove any residues that may be left behind, leave the rim to air dry while to follow the next few steps. I cant express enough how important it s to get the rim as clean as possible, I've attached a picture below of a rim that started loosing air, because the duct tape was stuck onto a rim that wasn't properly cleaned. Step 2:Measure the width of your rim from outside to outside and mark a test piece of duct tape, alternatively you can mark directly onto the duct tape as pictured. Step 3:test a small piece of the duct tape to make sure you have the width correct, The tape should go from the inner edge of one rim wall to the other. Make sure that the duct tape is stuck nicely to the middle groove of the rim Step 4: Mark the duct tape all the way round, resting your pen on a book or any other object to keep the pen from moving while you rotate the roll of tape. A folded piece of paper works well to make fine adjustments to height Step 5:Using your carpet or craft knife, cut a few layers deep into your duct tape., making sure not to make any tabs while you go along. It is generally easier to cut over the same line twice then try make one deep cut into the roll of tape Step 6:Start sticking your newly cut tape to the rim. start 30cm from the valve hole working toward it. A single layer ending 30cm otherside of the valve hole should be enough. Multiple layers will make is more difficult if not impossible to fit a tight bead. Make sure as you are sticking the tape from the middle groove moving your finger to either side of the rim wall from there. This will prevent the tape lifting later on. Step 7:Insert your tubeless valve by pushing it through the duct tape covering the valve hole. Make sure that the valve is close to prevent bending any of the bits. Step 8:Apply some dish washing liquid to the Duct Tape you have placed on the rim, start and end at the valve so as not to miss any pieces. Spread the soap from rim wall to rim wall using your finger Step 9: Put the first side of the tyre onto your rim. (you should be able to do this with just your hands) MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE ROTATION CORRECT, you don't want to mess this up, especially if you have a tight fitting tyre and only realize at the end. Step 10: (optional) At this point you can put the sealant in the tyre prior to fitting the second bead, or you can put the sealant in at the end if you have valves with removable cores Step 11: This is my trick for fitting a very tight fitting tyre to a rim. Fit the second bead onto the rim up until the point where your can't any more with just your hands. Using a piece of rope, wrap it around both tyre and rim at the point where the bead is still inside the rim (see pictures below) This will prevent the tyre from coming of the rim, and you working your way around the rim in an endless circle trying to fit the tyre. Both hands are now free to work the bead on from the other side, using one hand to keep the bead in the rim and the other to use the leaver, slowly fit the bead onto the rim. (make sure not do damage the duct tape with your lever) (right handed people work from left to right if the rim is in front of you, opposite for left handed people) Step 12: Using a floor pump or compressor inflate your tire, this is easier to do with tyres that fit tightly against the rim. Step 13: (optional) Submerge the tyre and rim under some water in the bath, if you see lots of air leaking from the valve, either you need to tighten the little washer (finger tight ONLY) or your rim tape has failed. If the tape has failed, have another beer or two and start again. Important notes: *DON'T over inflate a tyre fitting for the first time as you risk the tyre popping of the rime. The following few things will happen should you do it. 1. you will be left with a face full of tyre sealant (that stuff burns and glues eyes shut) 2. you will be left partially deaf with ears ringing for the next half hour. 3. if indoors everything will now be covered in sealant (stuff does not come out of furniture or curtains) 4. The tyre will most likely pop off the rim in future due to a now damaged/ stretched bead 5. Yes I have experienced all of the above, it is a road you would prefer not to go down *Rather deflate the tyre, push the beading the the centre of the rim and apply some dish washing liquid to aid seating of the tyre. *With tight fitting tyres it is sometimes easier to end at the valve when fitting the tyre as it allows the tyre already in the rim to sit nicely in the groove I know this is a long read, but hopefully it is able to help at least someone out there, even if just to make someone laugh, after reading over my important notes. Edit spelling:
  5. So I got dared into doing the Argus, entered and a month later decided I had better start training. So i bought my self a Silverback Sola 4 (Entry level hard tail). And did the Argus in 5:45. And loved it. My dilemma is that i was given a entry to this years whine2whales ride. And i am not sure that my bike will handle it. (Or i for that matter, but i have to try at least) My 2 big concerns being rims and front shock. The rims being Alex MD21 (I have to true them at least once a month)(My weight is 95kg's) The fork is a Suntour XCR. I was thinking that i could upgrade the rims to say ZTR Arch Ex's, The bike has Shimano Hubs. Advise please
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