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Reghardt van Rensburg

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Everything posted by Reghardt van Rensburg

  1. My guess is - he's getting it second hand. Cause they're normally paired with HOPE hubs as far as I know. I would rather opt for the wider and stiffer ARCH MK2's - As those have a weight limit of 136KG vs the 86KG of CREST
  2. 2 Years ago I bought a 500ml bottle called the Squirt Lube Workshop size chain lube. That lasted me a whole 2 years. And it cost R160.00 from a LBS. No I only see the 120ml - lowest price being R95.00 The distributors - https://fitsportslab.co.za/ also doesn't even have this on their product list anymore. Goodness me, I cannot understand why it has to be this expensive per ml all suddenly.
  3. This is a very late reply, but I'm doing research into computers now myself and found this Garmin Edge 25 to be quite appealing - however it seems like I won't be able to use it - since I see you cannot have your Heart Rate displayed on either of the 2 screens. Is this true? I see many people not happy because you cannot have HR along with any other data (on the custom views) so do you have to toggle through the menu whilst riding to get to the HR monitoring? Suppose now you're actually using the HR wireless device from Garmin. Anyways that said, I also found that there is a hack for it; http://www.edge25.net/ But I don't feel comfortable paying so much for a product that seemed to be intentionally designed not to have that feature. Wondering if there are any similar products in the same price range.
  4. No, the shop said that the RD is not serviceable, Actual words was, "we cannot get the RD open to access the springs to replace anything" They've kept the old one.
  5. I would definitely go for the Giant. It's subjectively a much more appealing bike aesthetically. Also the wheel-set is like tier 2, that's some serious carbon rims. Plus a GX Eagle 1x12 drivetrain. The Giant is R5k more for a reason, it's a top race bike, doesn't quite compare with the Merida. I don't claim to own this statement, but it's been proven that Giant Anthem is the Toyota of the XC world. in SA at least. They work/sell well here and in Australia. That's my opinion, and some of my friends' that are some avid MTB riders from George. They've had plenty of Giants, broken many of them (frames) and still to this day have an Anthem hanging in the garage. I respect the brand, I've been an owner of one myself, and have had to go through a warranty replacement also. It's been a pleasurable experience thus far. My next upgrade is getting one myself.
  6. Any suggestions on a safe to use lubricant for a MTB. It's dry terrain mostly, and I often do a drivetrain wash with Clean Green, and then found that Squirt works best for me as a lube. Just have had to replace a brand new XT M800 rear derailleur after 9months of use. Shop said the spring was worn out, not possible to fix it, don't know anything about servicing it myself so I replaced it with a SLX M700. Is it worth getting a spray-on lubricant for the derailleur even at all? I often rinse it with soapy water. I see professional techs use a spray-on lubricant. But don't know of any brands worth getting. Also don't want to damage the new part by adding WD40 or something generic. Also would it be safe to spray product on your shifter?
  7. I know, one shouldn't look at running costs per KM. So you recon these NX11's will be compatible with the SHIMANO XT, and is it not going to do more damage at only R300+/- normal price vs R600 for the SHIMANO 11's chainz?
  8. Dude that is some solid advise right there. My first chain lasted 2700KM that was from a new bike I bought. So I guess it was a entry level chain (2X11) shimano XT. So how I approached the maintenance was completely wrong. I used that vile degreaser from Finish Line on the chain, and lubricated with Squirt also as instructed. Oblivious to even knowing about how to check for chain wear, left alone know about it. I just kept cleaning with degreaser often - and kept on riding. When the chain broke at 2700KM all the bike shops gave me the same answer, my drivetrain needs to be completely replaced. And that 500KM is when the chain needs to be "recycled" Now with my 2nd chain, I have not yet used any degreaser on it, I simply use a spray bottle and a rag, cleaning the black chucky bits of Squirt off the chain along with the sand. Then let it dry and add Squirt - let it sit over night and ride the next day. New chain has done 770KM with the chain checker not yet going into the chain at the 0.75 wear indicator. But I now considering replacing the chain. I once again opted to put SHIMANO XT casette and chainring on (coverted to 1X11) To put things into perspective for the OP - Riding my normal routes here in Tygerberg costs me R1 per KM alone just on chains. I've shower-thought together since my experience the idea of replacing my chain only for a 3rd time then I'll go at it, till it's completely ******. And switch to a single speed. I'll look into the reality of SS'ing further when that time comes. Because R1/KM - and that's just chain wear - not even the rest of all the other wearables!
  9. I don't know so well. My experience on tubless havent been so great. It cost me a lot of money, first i have to buy a new tire and swop the front old one to the back. Then let a shop do the conversion because i didn't have the experience sealant or a compressor. My tires and rims where tubless ready (GIANT XC3/Shwalbe racing ralph) but it still cost me R750 for both to convert. I'm seeing black rim tape when there where blue rim tape. My rear tire with still plenty of thread didn't stay inflated the next day after converting it last Friday. I tried a floor pump, and a older tire - but i doesn't inflate. So basically I payed R350 for the shop to take out my inner tube that I now have to re-buy and go tubed again. So if your tubless tire go flat, it's another trip to the LBS. This was my biggest concern about converting to tubeless. Everyone raves about tubeless tires. But a in my shitty experience, having inner tubes with sealant is exactly the same thing, with less of a risk - You can at least replace a inner tube on the trail and pump it up using a easy and small to use hand pump. I've heard you can use a seatbelt inside your tire glued to the inside to prevent thorns from piercing your inner tube. At this stage I'm so fed up - I haven't rode **** again this weekend and wasting time on Youtube looking/learning the tubeless system, that I'm going to consider going "Permatubes" At least I'll be able to complete a ride heavy as it is.
  10. Thanks for mentioning the insurer PeterF, I've just starting looking to insure my 2x bikes.
  11. No this is not my bike. Yes the security guard stopped the guy on this bike - and confiscated it from him. If this is yours - then I can help you get in contact with the person who is currently keeping it, until claimed.
  12. http://i.imgur.com/DKpKhu0.jpg Posted on the Neighbourhood Watch Whatsapp Group. Guy was pulled over by security, who then shared this picture. Location: Sonstraal Heights - Durbanville - Cape Town
  13. I just want to post an update. This will also serve as a "Answer" or "Solution" As it turns out the issue seemed to have been related to the freewheel and it's hub. Since the 7 speed cog/and freewheel/hub combo is a lot weaker, TITAN replaced it with a cassette and new hubs along with a new real wheel. So for anyone else that runs into this. The traditional freewheel style is actually meant for the 5 speed type bikes. But as soon as you add more gears - the weaker grip becomes at the bearings, and this creates that flex, and what follows will be a bent axle. I've sent TITAN a mail back with my appreciation for their efforts. They've collected/and dropped of my bike at no cost.
  14. I can assure you it's not a optical illusion - when I get out of the saddle that wheel rubs the frame. And I'm not even giving that much power.
  15. Here is a video to show what it's doing. In sitting on the bike holding both brakes and pedaling with the left leg - the crack is parallel with the floor, and i'm in a seated position: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDkerIgqnBk&feature=youtu.be TITAN is coming to pick up the bike from me, after I gave them a mail. Thank you "bikebloke" I went to that link and mailed them.
  16. My info (and will update this on my profile) Weight: 88Kg Bike: TITAN Peak 2017 (bought it new) Got it back from CWC today at Tygervalley (Cape Town) Took it for a test ride after they've replaced the axle again, and immediately the play got worse as I rode. I pedal uphill, and can feel the rear wheel swaying. The wheel doesn't move when I wiggle it stationary, but I put some mild load on it and it pulls to the left. My girlfriend also has a TITAN, and that one feels alot stiffer than mine, but I fear if I torgue too hard it might also loosen. CWC's tech said these TITAN's are not meant for heavy riding and that can fit me with a SHIMANO hub/axle and 29'er rim plus upgrade the castte. But that will come at a cost - and advised me that I'll be overspending. Since this is a R5800 bicycle. The updrade wil cost approx R2200 (I'm sceptical about it solving my problem) This seems ludicrous in my opinion since I've rode a R900 avalance in my 20's way harder for years on end, on the same equipment for over 6 years. Tomorrow I have to decide to upgrade it, or just not ride anymore. I can only get the bike I want another 2 years from now when the budget allows. It'll be a GIANT XTC 29'er - I honestly thought this TITAN would have at least be something I could get fit on for 2 years untill then. I'm so dissatisfied with this product. Feels like I'm going to be sitting on my ass for 2 years - and selling this junk on Gumtree to recover this upgrade cost of R2k
  17. I actually this time just feel like taking directly to the shop wheel attached to bike 'n all. I have this suspicion that they will say it's due to jumping etc. Also at this stage I feel like selling this bike and saving for something more expensive instead.
  18. I actually this time just feel like taking directly to the shop wheel attached to bike 'n all. I have this suspicion that they will say it's due to jumping etc. Also at this stage I feel like selling this bike and saving for something more expensive instead.
  19. I was last posting to find out the cause of why my wheel pulls to the left under load. And as it turned out the axle was completely broken off on the far side where the cones thread over. And now today again - after climbing up a hill - my rear wheel again slams into the frame. So this is yet again another broken axle. So I guess it cant be that the axles are weak. Since the cones and axle was replaced. I fear that it might be that the frame is manufactured scew, and this causes the axles to break clean off. Or perhaps its not, is not a stronger axle perhaps, I'm thinking surely I can put on an expensive branded hub/axle/QR on my bicycle, since the pro's can put out way higher Watts than me uphill and I've never of snapping from them. It's just weird, Strava showe I do max 200Watts and to think that can break off steel. Clearly something ain't right. I did see some play on the wheel when the shop last replaced the axle, but I've left it, because booking it in anywhere around here takes the service department at least a week. Oo
  20. Reply is for shaper - sorry for the suspense. But I've battling to find a shop that can help me, i wont mention any names but the retailer who sold me the bike said that the warranty only cover the frame, and not parts that can break. In my case the axle broke in half. So i guess the axles are brand specific as most places say... So i just have to wait. Till some supplier eventually turns up with something. Also not sure how true this is but aparwntly Quick release technology is outdated so this might be the cause of the delay
  21. I opened it up, but it's frustrating as I don't even know what to look for, The axle looks fairly straight (its a thin long pipe with threads at the end where the quick release binds on then on either side are bolts. If that's the axle... It does move around, there are bearings inside, but it just goes throw, and it seems to wobble around on the bearings. I still don't understand why the wheel falls towards the chain even if the QR is gripping it tightly. I guess I'll take it to the shop, I cant seem to make sense of this. Seems like "they" like everything just don't manufacturer goods properly anymore. I have a R900 old rusty and caltex lubed bike from the 90's and never have I had to replace anything. 10's of 1000's KM still doing just fine. Thanks for the input. I was 5km from home, thinking I could quicly tie down something... Guess my weekend rides are over.
  22. My real wheel pulls left into my frame. This is a new bike - i've had it under previous heavy loads and have done about 400km on it now. Suddenly just now I heard the tire rubbing the frame. The quick release was correcly stiff. I've tried to make it even more still. But the wheel still moves. Even while i sit still on it - with a light pedal holding the brakes it moves about 3cm into the frame
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