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BLITZKRIEG

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  1. The frame weighed in at 1900g I weighed it using a fish scale. The whole bike came in at 9kg, considering that the wheelset is 3.3kg and the tyres are about 450g each, that's not so bad
  2. Thanks guys It rides quite well, a little flex but not too bad. I think my old steel singlespeed is more flexible.
  3. I used a piece of long steel bar which I sharpened with a file..
  4. You can see the difference between the sanded and unsanded finish.. Next step was to paint a protective coating over the frame.. The finished frame is shown in the pic below..
  5. Sorry for keeping you guys waiting for so long but here are some more pics.. I repeated the process on the rest of the joints and it came out pretty well.. The seatclamp is also shown in better detail..
  6. Have to go race now, will post more stuff after..
  7. I then sanded all the joints, I sanded the ends of each pole prior to gluing to make this part easier. For the rear stays I added a wedge to fill in the gap as the radius there was too tight to wrap in carbon neatly(you could give it a bash). I dont have any pictures of the carbon being layered on because it was very messy and I didn't want to get my camera dirty. When applying the carbon, just ensure that there are fibres in all directions.. Once you are satisfied with the amount of carbon, the joint must then be wrapped in insulation tape with the sticky side up, I perforeted the tape once it was on, this allows extra resin to seep out.. The particular resin I used was ampreg 21 and can cure at ambient temperatures.. The last picture is the finished joint..
  8. After all the pieces were mitred, I fitted the tubes together and made sure everything lined up. I then used a normal quick setting epoxy to glue the pieces together..
  9. A lugged BB might have been stiffer but unfortunately the frame I bought didn't allow for that so I just used some more carbon in that area..
  10. A jig was then built (there are many ways in which to do this) and a parent frame chosen for the build. I copied the geometry of the frame in the picture.. I cut the frame up and took the necessary pieces i needed for the bamboo frame.. These all need to be ground in order for the epoxy to adhere properly.. The bamboo then needs to be cut and shaped to fit into the jig and onto the various pieces.. I will post more stuff tomorrow
  11. Bamboo poles were cut from a forrest. The poles were then cut to the rough length needed for the various sections. The poles were then washed and the nodes punctured to avoid the tubes exploding during heat treatment. The poles were then heat treated, this is done three times first to remove the waxy layer then second to remove the chlorophyl layer and a lot of the moisture, i let them stand for about a week before i did the third treatment, this is to remove more moisture and give the poles a nice colour..
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