440MTB

I missed it here... BUT, that rig of yours is imprinted in my mind's eye... especially after the ohlins upgrades. 😍 Such a rad rig. 🤯

Saw this thread, and thought I'd participate... 😅 My Slash 9.8XT, customized with some Slik graphics fork and shock decals, and ride wrapped front to back, top to bottom... done by myself... yes it was a mission, but fun none the less... 🤣 Also changed out the stock tyres to some Schwalbe goodness. 😎 Only pic I have of it "out in the wild" - but still on stock tyres here:

This is one nifty report... Well done to you guys for actually providing such an in depth report, it was an interesting read. Cheers!

The stem is 35mm, you won't be able to go shorter, unless you go with something very niche and it's going to be quite expensive (and pointless in my opinion), rather get the right size bike than mess with stem lenghts.

I bought a Large Slash 9.8XT from biket.co.za last week - they seem to have stock in size large again, they also seem to have 1 XL in stock if that fits you better. https://biket.co.za/products/2023-trek-slash-9-8?variant=41009569955979 I'm 1.81m tall, I always ride large, and the Slash in Large fits me super well, and the ride thus far is amazing!

So I ended up buying the 2023 Slash that comes with the Charger 3 ZEB Select+ (HSC & LSC, etc)... Will see how it goes, thus far the fork does feel super plush from just bouncing around on it in the street, and I haven't even started tuning it properly yet.

Hey there! I follow them too, not sure how common that issue is to be honest... the only reels I've seen on their page has been Fox (36/38/40)... only RS fork I've seen on there is a Reeba.

Just saw this video: It seems a lot of people are used to running 25-30% sag, whereas it seems RS recommends the ZEB be run at 20%... but I'd like to hear your feedback too. Cheers!

Greetings! I've heard from a few folks, and seen quite a few topics on ZEB forks, where people complain they are harsh, having to run super low PSI not to suffer from arm pump/numb hands, people not able to use the full travel, or just overall issues getting the forks dialed... This seems to boil down to negative and positive chambers being unable to equalize due to ports being blocked, then after a lower service, a lot of guys say the forks are better, some still battle and end up upgrading the damper (in the case of older Select, Select+ models, they get the RC3 damper from the Ultimate variant). So a few questions for you ZEB owners: What model are you running? Did this come on a new bike, or did you buy it separately? If on a bike, what bike? Were you happy with it out the box/on the bike? Did you have to do anything to get it dialed in? I'm looking at the Trek sales, and saw the Slash 9.8XT which has the ZEB Select+, and I've currently got a Lyrik Ultimate (RC2.1 - 160mm) which is a superb fork, so not really sure how to feel about the ZEB Select+ and Super Deluxe Select+ combo, as I don't want to buy a new bike and not be happy with the suspension on it. Cheers!

Excellent tips! Those little blue o-rings come out when regreasing/cleaning without one even noticing, and the preload collar doesn't need much tightening... I learned that the hard way. Lol I had many strikes on my Merida OneTwenty (140/120) with 175mm M8000 cranks and RaceFace Chester pedals. I currently own a Giant Reign (160/146) with 170mm Descendant cranks and Spank Spoon 110 pedals, and I've had very few strikes, even in the gnarliest of rock gardens we have here in The Tygerberg trails, but they are two very different bikes, and I've progressed with my riding a fair bit too, so know when to put a pedal down and when to keep them up. I'm currently building a Nukeproof Scout for longer, more mellow rides, and I was only able to get a 175mm Lyne AMP Crankset, but I'm not planning on doing too much in terms of "gnar" with it... I crash too much these days, breaking ribs, and smashing shoulders, to care to push myself anymore... taking a break from the "Eduro" life for a while, and then will most likely settle for a 150/140 trail bike over a full enduro rig, if Iever do go dual sus again.

For sure. I never hinted at this being sram's fault. I merely mentioned they are a bit more finicky and if you don't look after them, and set your preload correctly, this is most likely what you're going to do to your aluminium spindle, where Shimano's steel spindle may be more forgiving. My dub spindle on my 2020 Reign is still in amazing condition... many factors that contribute to crankset wear.

Yup! The dub spindle on my stylo carbon crank on my Scott Spark 910 looked almost as bad as this when I took them out for the first time after buying the bike 2nd hand... It was also a pain to get loose, but not as bad as my descendant crankset on my Giant Reign, where I almost gave up. The one in your picture is wild man! 🫣

You know when a 200+mm dropper isn't enough, you got some long legs! 😅 And trust me... those long legs can stomp those pedals. I've battled to keep up many times. 🤣🥲

As someone who has owned a few different cranksets over the years. Dub is by far the biggest pain, if you work on your own bikes. I've also nearly decided to go throw my bike down a cliff face at one stage, due to the absolute nightmare it can be to get the crank bolt loose... ended up using a massive pipe on my park tool 8mm crank/pedal wrench and just going with the notion of "if it breaks, it breaks". I've also seen how easily the dub spindle can wear out if you run with worn BB bearings or don't set the preload correctly (previous owner of bike left me this surprise). Then also the little plastic preload ring is easy to break if you overtighten the tiny 2mm allen bolt (ask me how I know this)... Shimano cranks are a lot nicer to work with in my opinion, and the 24mm steel spindle lasts forever. I was quite lucky to get my hands on a Lyne AMP crankset from Stoke a while back which I am going to use on my new build - like MORNE said, best of both worlds, 24mm spindle, pinch bolts on non-drive side crank arm to fasten and release easily, and a 3 bolt sram style chainring for easy maintenance/replacement. Also, in my opinion, not much difference between 170mm and 165mm, so if you can get 170mm just go with that, you'll be fine.

Thanks man - Just never heard this before (but it's the first time I'm servicing this fork since buying it from my friend). The fork does feel 100% though and feels super plush and smooth after the service and handled everything fine during the initial ride. Maybe another question for yourself (and possibly for @droo) - Does this sound go away usually after a few hours of riding - if so roughly how many? As I'd like to keep an eye/ear on it and rather have the fork checked out if it doesn't go away?