Xenomorph

Go custom check out www.zinncyclces.com

36 hole is stronger but heavier, I use 36 hole on my 29er

Panaracer Rampage 2.35 Kenda Nevegal 2.2 Nevegal actually measures biger, great tires all imported though and worth it, also they wear quite slowly, I ride super rocky trails.

I run 29er with tubless, best thing I ever did, tires are more supple over bumps, MORE TRACtion, way lighter than UST (also UST has limited range of tires to choose from), be careful which tires you choose though, if you are going to be running a xc rig make sure the tire casing is not to thin or you will get cuts. With tubless it is my opinion that you must run the correct tire for the terain you will be riding or you will have problems, rather be over cautious I run heaVY 2.3 Tires as I ride very rocky trails, Always cary a spare tube! I would suggest a Stans rim, I have the flow and its rock solid. No more pinch flats, the other day I pulled a cardboard box staple from the tire and "the solution " just sealed the hole. I weigh 96kg, if I did not run 50 psi I would get pinch flats. With tubless I can run 35psi To me tubless is the best bike invention ever as makes riding 100% more pleasurable

I wouldn't go with a peg board-not very durable and looks KUK, use some proper thick board, lay your tools on cardboard on the floor work out where everthing should go-comomly used tools in middle then replicate on wood. for some reason I cant upload images but I have a ggod photo for you, what is yr email?

I started mtb'ing as it gives me a feeling of adventurousness and escapism. This has taken me from double track to single track to more technical trails. The kind of riding that inspires me is uphill loose, technical, steep, barely ridable terrain. My question is where is the balance between the weight of bike, specifically the rear wheel in relaction to traction being gained? Now its obvious that the more foot print on the rear the more traction one will gain, but this adds weight, wider rim, bigger tire etc. Where do you stop short of fitting dh equipment, that becomes too heavy to peddal up the hills defeating the original objective. P.S:Bike is 5" AM so that we can fly back down.

This is what worries me about bicycle culture, riders are becoming so obessesed with weight that they just by the next lightest part that is released, By a good product once, its much better for the environment

I tell you what' date=' instead of just an idle, sarcastic threat, why not e-mail them and ask their chief engineer to join the discussion. It won't be the first time we've done that and not the first we've eaten him for breakfast either. I also suggest you go do some research on this forum about the various types of hub seals and the disadvantages and advantages before you just believe whatever a vendor tells you. Please cc me on the Hope e-mail, I'll be delighted to see their comment. Previously we've had some posters here who apparently went and tattletaled to Park Tool about a comment I made on one of their tools. Sadly the mail never materialised and we're still sitting with the rubbish tool from Park. [/quote'] Park is totally over-rated!

http://www.mtbtrailreview.com/blog/industry-nine-vs-chris-king/thoughts/

I've got Chris King hubs, but will be upgrading to Industries Nine as build a stiffer & lighter wheel outherwise very happy with the Chris Kings if you can afford them, get them. You only need a 2.5mm allen key to service them and they have a 5 year warranty

neigh

Hey, Busta how did you enjoy your bapism of fire errr wind last night on Pat's track?

I am working on a price for you

6001 is just a iso code for the iner, outer and thickness of the bearing, 2rs means 2 rubber seals, NBK IS THE BRAND, I would try replace with INA or FAG bearings, reputable german brands