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wilhelm-S

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  • Province
    Gauteng
  • Location
    Johannesburg
  1. I recon post a WANTED advert on Bikehub - you never know who might have triangles in their boot. Or someone with a damaged frame... your best chance.
  2. I found the problem... the dust cap (headset cap) was bent, and although the steerer is still counter-sunk within the stem the cap was in direct contact with the steerer and hence didn't push the stem downward onto the the top race, therefore not allowing it to clutch the steerer!\ Hope that makes sense!
  3. I installed a new bearing that looks identical, and once I picked up the movement - after a few rides, I re-installed the old bearing again just to make sure. But the play still persist even with the old bearing. If the dust cap is properly in place i.e. it puts pressure on the top race would that resolve the play between the bearing and the frame? My logic tells me that due to the shape of the bearing seat, the harder the bearing is pushed down the more snug the bearing should be. The same goes for the race that pinches the steerer as its tightened... RIGHT?
  4. I picked up some 'play' on my headset. Looking closer its seems to come from the top bearing... and more specifically there seems to be play between the bearing and the seat of the bearing (the frame). The bearing seems to sit loose within the frame regardless of the tightness of the headset assembly. I have tried a new & old bearing, both fit loose withing the frame. With the cap installed there is about a 1mm gap between the cap and the frame... Am I missing a shim / spacer or something? Could it be wear & tear - microscopic movements chewing the frame
  5. Can you maybe share a pic of the bracket/spacer on your rear rotor setup?
  6. Thanks gents, good input. It not that I prefer (choose) using the rear brakes more compared to the front ones... I see that my rear pads tend to wear 2x faster so that its evidence that I am harder on the rear brakes. Then a again, the 180mm needs a harder squeeze to brake... and maybe thats why the wear quicker. Ultimately, I want a 203mm at the back to be able to brake effectively with one finger - little effort... maybe an inexpensive way to use physics to my advantage ?
  7. Hi There! Has anyone tried a 203mm rotor on the rear brakes of a mountain bike. My Specialized came out with 203mm rotor at the front and 180mm rotor at the back... but would it be possible to have a 203mm rotor at the rear? I'm sure Ill need some spacer or bracket (similar to the front), but a larger rotor would give more braking power. I use my rear brake 2 x often compared to the front one. Anyone experimented with this?
  8. I have been riding with my current cleats for the last 4 years... and now needs changing. In an attempt to loosen them I have stripped the Hex-screws, i.e. the screw-hole where the hex-tool should fit is now rounded. Anyone faced this issue before? Any tricks / hacks or advice out there? Could probably drill through screw out but how do I get the remainder of the screw and cleat out? I could also damage the thread of the "receiving-plate" inside the shoe? WS
  9. How the hell do I share a picture ?!
  10. How go I go about "seeing if there is enough bushing overlap & damper extension" What / where should I measure? How go I go about "seeing if there is enough bushing overlap & damper extension" What / where should I measure? The attached picture may help?
  11. I have a RochShox Reba RL (+/- 2015 model) fork, with currently 100mm of travel (is that standard?). I understand that the travel on some forks can be increased - if the "hardware" allows it. How do I know / check if the travel on my particular for can be increased, to say 120mm? What is the main component I need to check or measure to see if it will work?
  12. Ossie Please add me on the WhatsApp group... PM sent
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