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Nimby

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Posts posted by Nimby

  1. I reckon if you're a heavier rider 3x10 is the way to go. You'll need the smallest chainring on the steep and long uphills and benefit from the largest chainring on the front on the downs /flats. As Eldron says its about stretching the limits - 24/36 & 42/11 is indisputably wider than 26/36 & 39/11 - even if there is greater redundancy in-between...

  2. Need some advice on MTB Tech skills.

     

    Steep descent, out the saddle, weight well back, pedal horizontal.

    Braking hard front and back, wheels almost locking up - Speed, very slow.

     

    Rounded a left-hand switchback, ran a little wide:

     

    1. Front wheel met a bump and stopped dead, sending me over the bars- slow motion.

    2. Front wheel left the edge of the single track, washed out down the slope, lo-siding me slow mo."

    Those Solly's Folly switchbacks were hectic - I think a little more speed is probably the answer - bit terrifying though.

  3. Can you give the Anthem a good beating on the trail without fear of the frame breaking .... not gap jump beating, but I am looking for a frame that will last.

     

    IMO - yes. I weigh 100kgs and it has taken everything I can throw at it for 9 months with no frame issues whatsoever. It did the Berg and Bush descent this weekend without a murmur...

  4. Never experienced this delamination thing and I've used Schwalbe, Continental, Geax and Maxxis tyres so far - all with Stan's sealant. I normally only use the UST versions (or TNT for Geax) but I agree with WW above - how can it be so hard for each manufacturer to "approve" a sealant with their tyres?

  5. I think it depends as much on the size of the rider as the size of the wheels. If you are very broad chested a wider handlebar would make more sense than if you were skinnier.

     

    Have to agree with cptmayhem above - make really sure it's too wide before lopping big chunks off the end.

  6. Back to the granny gear, no I am not Burry, although I ride the same bike as him, and unfortunately I don't do national XC races, but if I was stuck with an alu bike, I in all probability would have had enough reason to apply a tiny chain ring.

     

    Why is it that the Specialized guys seem to have a such very high opinion of themselves and their equipment? Just because it's carbon and "Burry rides it" doesn't automatically make it superior. But I do hope the Kool-Aid is tasty and refreshing...

  7. I'm building an 11-speed one into a wheel and bike for a customer right now. You're welcome to come over and have a look at it and kick the tyres.

     

    I've done several Rohloffs but this is the first Alfine. They both weigh a bomb though, even by my standards.

     

    Thanks Johan - I mioght do that - I'll PM you.

     

     

     

    Cheers

  8. I have the 8 speed, built into a DT Swiss 520 ( 29er) rim, works very well, very smooth, but it is rather heavy. Good for touring, commuting and general riding, not really for racing.

    You can buy mine for R2500 ( complete, built in, as above)

     

    Hi. Thanks for the offer but I'm not quite at the "Buy" stage yet.

  9. Thanks Citius.

     

    Ja - there is definitely a weight penalty but with a decent wheel build I might be able to mitigate it somewhat. I'm not looking to build a superlight bike - more a tough (possibly steel) hardtail that I can use for general training and possibly some commuting.

  10. Hi - did a search but couldn't find too much info.

     

    Does anyone have any experience of running a Shimano (8 or 11spd) Alfine hub on a mtb - more specifically a 29er. It sounds like an interesting low-maintenance hardtail solution that would save my (old and tired) legs from the rigours of a single-speed.

    Cheers

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