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Found 10 results

  1. Founded in 2014, every Kogel Bearings product is engineered and assembled in the USA, and are exclusively available in South Africa through ROAM Sports. All Kogel products use, only, the highest quality ceramic bearings and are all backed by Kogel’s industry leading warranty. This 2-year “Guaranteed Performance” warranty, pending annual bearing service and general maintenance, is backed up by ROAM Sports in South Africa. The best-in-industry warranty, for ceramic bearing bike products, means that if a Kogel product fails in the first year ROAM Sports will send you a new unit. Upholding general maintenance, of your bearings, will extend this warranty for a second year. This warranty covers everything, including alloy race corrosion, the most common reason for BB failures. View full article
  2. South African cyclists now have more access to bespoke component upgrades, thanks to ROAM SPORTS. Founded in 2021, by mountain biker Matthew Stamatis, the company focuses on making high quality products available to the South African market. ROAM SPORTS’ stable of offerings is set to grow but the company launched by securing the exclusive South African distribution rights to Kogel ceramic bearings. The Kogel Kolossos oversized pulley wheels and rear derailleur cage increases efficiency, and let’s face it looks great too. Photo by Matthew Stamatis. View full article
  3. Hi Guys, Can one replace and/or overhaul the bearings inside the Shimano XT M780 SPD pedals??
  4. This weekend, a strange thing happened to my son's rear Mavic axle. (which resulted in a premature ending of our ride as mentioned in another thread) While we were riding, he heard a squeak and then stopped, telling me that it felt like his brakes were stuck. I checked the brakes and there was clearance on either side of the disk so they were not the problem. I took off the wheel and the axle was totally stuck. When the wheel turned, it was the axle rotating in the wheel lugs where the skewer tightens against the lug and the axle. There was already some damage to the aluminium! The only thing that turned in the axle was the end cap. When we eventually got home I stripped the axle. To my surprise, NO BEARINGS were damaged! But what did seem to happen is that the ring that sets the tension against the bearing had tightened itself to the point that the axle no longer moved. This part is behind the disk rotor and cannot be accessed without removing the rotor. I completely stripped, cleaned and re-assembled and it all works again without replacing anything but grease! Still have to test on a real ride but all seems well again. Any ideas on what would cause this?
  5. HI All Im looking to replace all my bearings on my bike. Any idea where I can find the bearing numbers / sizes without pulling the whole bike apart? This is the bike: http://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com/product/trek-fuel-ex-5-29-220722-1.htm Any feedback / help would be much appreciated.
  6. This is a precautionary note for owners of 2015 Spez bikes that share the same hubs as the Rumor Comp : A friend just purchased a low milage Spez Rumor advertised on the Hub. The bike is a 2105 model, in excellent condition and low milage as advertised. My friend brought it round to fit some pedals and give it a check. It has a 15mm TA Reba on front and I could not remove the front wheel. Prior attempts by someone else had damaged the cup on the RS Maxle. the Maxle seemed to be seized in the hub or left front fork leg. It would partially unscrew from the right leg but then went tight and would not come out of the left leg.. A firm tap with a soft mallet got it freed up and the cause became clear: The wheel bearings are not stainless steel, there is no axle in this hub as the Maxle does that duty and the wheel bearing inner races had rusted onto the Maxle. There was no grease anywhere to be seen. So I squirted the inside of the hub with grease and liberally greased the Maxle as well. At a later stage when I get a bit more time with the bike I am going to strip those cheap bearings out and put something decent in. Since there was only rust in there and no dirt I'm guessing the water got in when the bike was transported on a carrier in the rain or during washing. If you have one of these bikes be warned. There are no o rings or seals in the hub to prevent water gaining access to the axle so you are advised to use liberal amounts of grease and avoid submerging the axle in water. Also avoid spraying water from a hose when washing it. This is going to need care for the life of the bike/hub.
  7. Hi The bearings in my front wheel (Microtech) are shot. My LBS is having difficulty sourcing the replacement bearings. We are looking for 2 x 699 2RS bearings. If anyone has these in stock, or knows where I can get them, I would be grateful for any help and advice. Many thanks Harry
  8. I recently purchased an older Raleigh RDS 7.0 of 2006 vintage (See pic) on an auction. The paint job is very "old school" so I am planning to respray the frame. I have stripped everything off the frame except the rear A-frame which has got me puzzled. I have removed the hexagonal bolt from the pivot but am stumped at how to get the actual pivot bolt/bearing out so that I can separate the rear a-frame from the main frame. Can anyone help???
  9. Hi all...the Scott genius 940 comes with a tapered Ritchley headset that has a sealed cartridge bearing in the top and old unsealed roller bearing in the bottom..I'm looking at replacing the at the cheapest option ...which is just the bottom bearing with matching crown-race. Any of you done this...bearing will be a tapered 55/61
  10. Hi All. I had a blond moment. I stripped down the rear triangle and removed the bearings etc as I have had the bike now for a year. I made sure not to loose any of the spacers etc, my problem is that I did not realize that they are not just spacers but they have lips on the inner edge on one side, and I did not check which way they are supposed to sit when I took them off. I have checked and re-greased all the bearings, they all spin smooth so all is ok there. I re assembled the bike last night and I put back the spacers the way that makes sense to me but I am not sure. with the pivots not torqued it moves freely, not connected to the shock, but once torqued down the recommended specs it is not free moving anymore but it does move. who can tell me which way the spacers go?
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